Ok — talk me off the ledge here. How bad of an idea would it be to put a heat lamp inside my enclosure? I am printing a 12” square model with a brim and hairspray with temps 235/80 and factory enclosure, and the corners still want to curl up. I would raise the bed temp to 110 if I could — but A350. 
Ideas?
Typical acrylic I believe is rated to 80C. I don’t think air temps are an issue.
You’re getting into the territory of heated enclosures, which is a popular topic you’ll find lots of information about on the internet.
Some people use something a temperature controller like this: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00F05UI8O/
With a heater like this inside the enclosure: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00I4UVGHO/
Personally, I think the heater / controller solution will have better results than a heat lamp, but I don’t see anything wrong with it.
Yeah, I get that there are better long term solutions. Heat lamp is a $10 hack to see if it will be worth doing the right way.
Thanks for the links, does validate that I’m not crazy. 
issue with a heat lamp is it is radiant heating, so the parts of the print in the light will be significantly warmer then the parts that are in the shadow. i know something about this because i used to work in the HVAC industry with both hot air equipment and radiant heaters. the key to prevent warping is consistent temps. a print warps because the material being printed is hotter then the plastic it is being printed on. if you lower that differential you will get less warp, thus heated beds and heated enclosures. but a heat lamp will heat part of your print with out heating all of it. so you will get good results on one side and bad results on the other. or good results on the outside and more warping on internal structures. not saying you cant try it, as you said it is cheap and easy. but science is not on your side for it working well.
that said if you do decide to give it a go, let us all know how it turns out.
-Atom
also if your a DIYer then it would be pretty cheap to rig up a few power resisters infront of a fan and control it using an arduino with a thermister. i’m sure if you search the google you will find some examples of this and you might be able to set it up with parts you have laying around. then you have a cheap heated enclosure… though a word of warning for anything heated, the SM2 suffers from stepper driver heat issues, so having them run in a 100’C ambient temp might cause problems. also if you burn your house down making your own enclosure heater, dont blame me 
What about a heat pad like for a reptile terrarium?
-S
(and use at your own risk as Adam said)
yea that might work, pretty much the same thing as a heated bed.
Yeah this is probably a better hack than a bulb.
Do you think having a “seed germination” heating matt underneath the enclosure might work? Heat floor style?
Looks like typical seed germination mats are rated for up to 30C, which would be insignificant unless your work area is significantly colder than that.
Alternate idea for you @hair9000: Can you put small (1mmx1mm) grooves in the bed side of your model? Those grooves can greatly reduce curling from the bed. (But don’t help with layer separation…)
Hey it’s HALR, not HAIR!
This model is probably about the worst curling model you can think of. It’s a 12"x12" square tile, just two layers thick before the design starts. The corners are very prone to curling.
In case you’re really curious, here’s the SVG which I extruded out a few millimeters: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=58999135e6258af5&id=58999135E6258AF5!12257&authkey=!AI6pF5cU-b0ncds
Sorry about that! 
Is there a reason that you need to use ABS?
Sadly, yes. It’s for ceiling tile project and after some research I’ve decided that the least liability for a product like this to be installed on a ceiling will be something with a flame retardant additive, the only product which seems to exist in the world would be made from ABS.
Great question though – I ask myself this question very often.
In other slicers, there is a option called ooze shield or draft shield available. This may helps you to let the heat where it should.
Darn (i was trying to be minimal), i’m about to start trying the 3D printing function (in my cool basement), if i see the curling i can assume it might be too cool (despite the heated matt) so if i then use the thermostat and air heater what temperature (inside the enclosure) what you recommend? thanks in advance 
@DRB I print PETG (for example) with 225°C nozzle and 85°C bed.- The temperature in the enclosure is about 50°C, it´t not getting significantly more if i print with more bed or nozzle heat.
I even would not go higher because of the stepper motors and electronics.
keep in mind that warping and curling is caused by a temp difference between the plastic that is already printed and the plastic being printed on top of it. room temp only really affects things when it is cooling down your print, such as in a drafty area. generally speaking if your in a cool basement (like me) and there is no airflow by the part, the heated bead will heat up the column of air above the bed and the general air temp wont matter as much (assuming its not like freezing).i have printed ABS on my ender without an enclosure with some success.
I have an enclosure, so drafts aren’t the problem, but good suggestion for my other printer!