Yeah right the goal was to have the full control via WiFi, like with USB cable. Luban and the internal Wifi is a shame. In my opinion you have to implement or not lock out the good features expecially when you´re using great open source tools like marlin is.
Thought there could be a workaround with this or with a octopi implemention.
Maybe it could work but I tried it on the normal USB and not on the micro/mini. First need an adaptor then i will give it an other try.
+1 for octopi. 
I just bought a small handful of Pi Zero 2Ws and now all my machines run on them. Printing the case and strapping it to the machine like a tiny backpack.
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Oh nice !!
So you fully can control and send files to your SN2? Do you also have added a new camera to the 10W Laser Head?
Just added a 10bugs HD cam to my 30W faser and it workes amazing good.
And an other one to the top corner of my enclosure. So i safed the very expensive laser protective glass and have everything on screen.
Finally i got this working!
Now I use a Raspi 4B(1GB) with external WiFi Stick (because of the bad internal WiFi) and added an old 720p LogiTec USB camera.
The Pi binds the Snapmaker and the camera on bootup.
On PC i just have to run a small script to attach the camera and the Snapmaker.
So now I have full control + a good quality live view via Wifi.
I have problems to switch back to marlin. My 10W laser module shows a overheating failure and luban says: module does not support current gcode
Any idea? Should I first install a lower firmware than the 1.20.3?
Thanks for help.
Check the fan in the module itself. Sounds like it’s either stalled, clogged, or died.
Thought it´s the fan. So replaced it after tested the new one externally. But still same problem. I also tried the 10W laser module from artisan. But after once hat flashed the grbl firmware the fan message appears and after reflash to a stock firmware luban tell´s that the module does not support current gcode.
Now both modules do not work anymore. -.-
Merry christmas
Wait. GRBL firmware? Plug the 10W in, and download the latest firmware for the machine and flash it from USB. The ancient custom firmware is not needed, and should be ignored.
With grbl firmware i mean your custom firmware.
I resettet via the about page → developermode → and the experiment page.
I tried it several times but when ther laser is plugged in and the machine powered on it always want to make the laser calibration. No chance to get to the usb and update firmware.
If you reset, you have to go through the calibration first, then load the firmware.
Sure but for the calibration the module first has to work. damn 
You mentioned an Artisan as well, can you hook the module up to the artisan and run the firmware update on it to update the module firmware? If that doesn’t work, you may need to contact support.
Yeah also tried this but wheater the SN2 nor the Artisan are able to fully control the module firmware now is on both modules seems i have to contact the support.
Am I the only one with that problem? Are you able to go to the Snapmaker firmware from your custom one?
I’ve had no issue swapping back and forth, but it is no longer needed. You can run the firmware update on your machine alone without the 10W plugged in and it’ll update the controller fine. If you get it going again, make sure to just keep the latest firmware on the machine.
@Zoe Is there any way you can make it so I can edit the first post? I need to edit it so people stop using the custom firmware.
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@Skreelink, I made it a wiki, so you should be able to edit it again 
.
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Thank you, modified for clarity, and made a point to my newer guide for the IR/40W, which is technically an update to this guide and works with all the lasers.
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ive been reading through this and it seems the more I read the more confusing it becomes.
I Have the SM2.0 A350 with the 2W IR working in lightburn. This is loaded using the GRBL-M3
I am trying to get the rotary module setup
Do I use the GRBL setup or the Marlin? Or the snapmaker Marlin?
There seems to be so many conflicting setups and steps on what to use and how to I just dont know what ones are now correct with the latest setups and firmware
I think you have to go here:
But I am sure Skreelink or other user will jump in to help you further.
For the rotary you must use the Snapmaker Marlin and for the rotary take Chuck and B axis.
Marlin inline (what I normaly use to laser) has no B axis option.
Use the last Snapmaker Firmware. No others.
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