@Skreelink - I installed your latest version of the firmware from GitHub on top of Firmware V1.18.1 for my Snapmaker A350 using a 1.6w laser + quick-swap kit and tried to follow the steps in your other guide to find the true 0,0 origin, but the Snapmaker no longer recognized that I had the quick-swap kit installed and bashed my laser head into the laser plate. Any idea how to get your firmware version working along with a quick-swap kit? Thanks for the assist!
There’s no need to install the additional firmware with the Version1.18.1 as it already incorporates the modifications
As @VaporPhoxxe stated, as of version 1.17.17 and to the latest, all the changed I made have been implemented in main-line so it’s no longer needed. Update your machine back to the latest firmware and you should be good.
Thank you both! Appreciate the fast response!
So I went through this a couple of times, got everything set up the way you’ve suggested, flashed firmware and everything, and lightburn says it can’t connect to the laser; it’s either busy or paused. I’ve restarted both the snapmaker and the software, connected the USB, and though it says connected, it still gives me the same error. Thoughts?
The firmware is no longer needed, just update to the latest. As far as the physical connection, try different COM ports and maybe a different USB cable.
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Aha, will do that.
And yeah, I’ve tried different cables and different ports. The one listed suggests it’s trying to use bluetooth maybe? Or maybe I don’t know what I’m looking at.
[Devices] button, then cu.BLTH in the dropdown, then the GRBL-M3 dropdown.
To my knowledge there’s no bluetooth option, you COULD however, use my drag/drop method if your snapmaker is connected to wifi. Easy as do up the project in Lightburn > export to file > drag/drop onto the sender code, and off it goes.
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Oh thank you! Will give that a shot.
With the latest firmware (v1.18.1_20231103):
When I set up lightburn to run my A250 using the GRBL 1.3, i get the “doubled” lateral movement commands from the lightburn JOG buttons and when I try to use G1 commands in a macro.
When I set up lightburn to run my A250 using the Marlin, the “doubled” commands do not seem to be a problem.
Can you offer an explanation for why the lightburn control should use GRBL instead of Marlin (if the Snapmaker runs on Marlin)?
As always, thanks for growing the wisdom on how to control this unruly family of devices.
Originally the GRBL-M3 worked better with the custom firmware for enabling inline. They’ve finally standardized a bit and rolled in features so you SHOULD be fine using Marlin with Inline control method now.
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Using Ray / Artisan / 2.0 with LightBurn
Using Ray / Artisan / 2.0 with LightBurn | Snapmaker Wiki
Interesting since it is a GRBL profile, not Marlin, for the Snapmaker 2.
Hi - struggling to figure out how I get properly configured for Lightburn with SM 2.0. I’m looking at the Z value and it appears to be somewhere between Z23 and Z33. When I do the configuration to check Z height from the controller I get values for Z of machine coordinates - 85.7 and work coordinates of -161.20. How do I take this number and figure out what the Z value should be? Thanks in advance.
Fred
We’ll start off with what machine you have and which laser are you using?
Sorry about that - you are uniquely helpful to people which I appreciate. Snapmaker 2.0 - just got it. Prior laser was a glowforge. I have the 40W laser that I’m working on. Also the 10 and 1.6 but for now I’m concentrating on the 40. Thanks
Basically what you’re doing is going to be focusing your laser on the bed, or zero thickness. Flip down the focus bar and lower down the laser until it just touches the bed, like you would for an actual object. On the control screen, note down the Z Machine coordinate.
Afterwards, home the machine and note down the Z machine coordinate again. Subtract the ‘focused’ height from the homing height. That is your G92 Z# height. This sets Z0 to be focused on the bed, so any entered thickness will bring the laser focus up to the top of your measured object.
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I think that clears it up - I’ll check it out and see where that leaves me - thanks.
Hi Skreelink - I finally got a chance to get back to the machine. So my G92 Z height will be 233.3. Why is it 0 in your example at the top of this page?
G0 Z23 F6000 - Where does this Z value come from?
Also I was following your guide for xy offset (i thought) however I wind up off the bed. Pic attached. This was with xy at 10/10. Not sure how I messed that up. Again i notice you have g92 for xy at 0/0. I’m guessing those are just placeholders for our real values?
Thanks again for the assist. Fred
It was originally 0, as I had the head move down to the focus height, then set 0 from the current location. This method required a little math, but is cleaner and prevents hitting the 40W on the bed.
The G0 Z23 F6000 line was the focus height of the 1.6W laser.
No, the G92 X0 Y0 in the original post was setting the origin for X/Y, your coordinates went in the G0 line two up. However, it can be condensed down to the opposite (like we did Z) to remove unnecessary moves. I really wish I could edit the original with updated methods without doing an entirely new post, which could confuse more people finding the old guide and not the new one. Also hard to do updates without the updated lasers. I only have the 1.6W and 10W.
Ignore the red cross, it’s offset by about 21.6mm.
Ok gotcha on where the xy values go but unfortunately I don’t have any. Went to 0,0 then offset to 10,10 but nothing happened when i turned the laser on - assumed it was missing the cardboard.
Can I expect at minimum laser when I turned the laser on to burn a hole in the cardboard? I did that several times but nothing happened.
How can the red cross be offset when it’s used for aligning the origin? Otherwise it has no value.
Thanks