Thanks a lot, your the best
Hi is the only way to use LightBurn to download a unauthorised custom build firmware?
Henrik
The custom firmware is no longer needed. The changes made were finally rolled into the official firmware.
Hi
And thanks for your fast reply.
I have followed your guide (after my best knowledge 
). And in The laser Window its stand as ready, but I can’t home the snapmaker. Do you have any idea that I can look at to help med further?
Snapmaker A350T and a iMac computer.
Best regards from Henrik in Spain
If you used the GRBL-M3 profile and trying to use the home button, that will not work. GRBL homes with $H whereas the snapmaker uses G28. Send G28 from the terminal/console window. If the machine was freshly booted, go to the control screen and home first from there.
I finally took the plunge and got Lightburn setup. I set a profile for snapmaker, Marlin, and GRBL just to see if I could get all of them to work.
The main issue I had was the default setting for Laser Control Commands. They defaulted to M106/M107. When I had them set that way I could cut lines but when I went to do images the laser would just go off and head would keep moving.
I resolved this by selecting the M03/M05
Thank you for creating the docs!!
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Random tip, use Inline
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Thanks for the suggestion. I made the change and it had me wondering the difference. I did a quick search and was not able to find M05 vs inline articles. Can you let me know why you prefer this setting?
Eric
Inline allows the power of the module to be controlled inline with movement code, thus it won’t stop when the laser turns off/on. If you ever ran the old snapmaker method of dot infill, you would have noticed it stuttered and took ages to engrave an image. With inline, it’ll pulse the laser as required for dithered images, and it can also modulate the power to have less burned corners during slowdown spots.
Overall it reduces the amount of lines sent to the machine as well, freeing up some serial bandwidth for finer details. Since finer details require more lines, the less “fluff” (i.e. extra M05 between each line) the better.
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You said: For my 1.6W laser, it’s Z23, for my 10W laser, it’s Z30.
When I do laser focus calbration, my Z axis ends up at 20.5 (I am guessing the 9.5 missing from your 30 is the Quick Swap kit pushing up the bed higher than it originally was?
and it is really really close (as best as I can measure) to 10mm above the laser platform.
The end of the 10W should be about 10mm above your object when focused. In theory, when you do the laser calibration, the quick release system should already be compensated for in the firmware.
HI @Skreelink , I’m setting up the Artisan w the 40w module and ran across this post. I want to make sure I understand what I should be doing for this setup. This is what I understood as to what the start code modification would be:
M106 P0 S255 ;
G28 ;
G53 ; DELETE THIS LINE
G0 Z23 F6000 ; DELETE THIS LINE
G54 ;
G92 Z353.8 ; THIS IS 419Z (HOME) - 65.2Z (BED TOUCH)
G0 Z300 ; DELETE THIS LINE
G53 ;
G0 X2 Y0 F6000 ; MY OFFSET TBD
G54 ;
G92 X0 Y0 ;
M3 S0 ;
Is my assumption correct? I’m also not sure how much else should be added to account for air assist to be started and stopped for the job.
It looks fine from what I can tell, to turn on air assist you can put an M8 in the header, and an M9 in the footer to turn it off.
Thanks for the M8/9 observation. That worked. I do have the following problem with Materials Testing.
My X continues to be too short? I get parts of it continuously cut off. I have gone from setting an X center from 40-55mm and still get cut off.
The dot in the bottom left if from when I located my offset at 10,10. All arrows show how the job comes out when set to a Y Center and X Center of 37,55. I do have start from set to Absolute.
This is my Start Code:
M106 P0 S255 ;
G28 ;
G54 ;
G92 Z353.8 ; THIS IS 419Z (HOME) - 65.2Z (BED TOUCH)
G53 ;
G0 X3.5 Y12 F6000 ; MY OFFSET TBD
G54 ;
G92 X0 Y0 ;
M8 ;
M3 S0 ;
I start jobs from the Artisan after sending from Luban. I set thickness and then move to Machine 0,0 and hit start.
I’m clearly doing something wrong in one of my steps (Didn’t have this issue with the 10W).
If you’re setting up the material test in Lightburn, I always found I had to manually edit the gcode to make it right, there’s not X/Y setting for it and it drops it in the middle of the plate.
However, you can quick-test your 0,0 by hand-typing the G92 line. In Luban use the console window to send the lines one by one. Here’s a bit of a condensed version of the header that should work (and you can put in the header if it does)
G28 Home
G54 Work Coords
G92 X-3.5 Y-12 Z353.8 Set X, Y, and Z offsets all together.
G0 X10 Y10 Z0.1 Move head down to focus on paper 10mm from left and front
M3 S50 Power on to burn paper (can change to whatever takes to mark the paper, S255 is 100%)
M5 Laser off.
Theoretically, if your offsets are correct, your hole should be 10mm in both ways.
Interesting. When I get to the G0 the head drops to the back left corner essentially below the home. Machine Coordinates 14.5X, 407Y, 65.299Z.
Homing from Luban I get to Machine Coordinates 1X, 406Y, 419Z.
I forgot to reverse Y, my bad. It should be the same method as Z. Take the machine location, minus offset. It’s always confusing doing the origin backwards. I apologize 
but Z doesn’t look right either? I’ll have to do some tests this weekend.
I just hope snapmaker hasn’t manked up how things work between the 2.0 and Artisan, although this standard gcode should work on any machine, even on commercial CNCs (I do so all the time at my job). Wish I had an Artisan and 40W for testing, kind of flying blind.
I would truly wish that contributors like you would get better sponsorship from SnapMaker for the machines. That said, I’m more than willing to do any type of session with you if that helps in the meantime.
So fun times! Playing with it back and forth (me not getting the point), I managed to settle at G92 X1 Y419 Z353.8 as offsets that give me a X13,Y13 dot.
How do I translate these findings into my header I’m not getting yet. I currently have:
M106 P0 S255 ;
G28 ;
G54 ;
G92 Z353.8 ; THIS IS 419Z (HOME) - 65.2Z (BED TOUCH)
G53 ;
G0 X3.5 Y12 F6000 ; MY OFFSET
G54 ;
G92 X0 Y0 ;
M8 ;
M3 S0 ;
Replace G92 Z353.8 with G92 X1 Y419 Z353.8 then remove
G53 ;
G0 X3.5 Y12 F6000 ; MY OFFSET
G54 ;
G92 X0 Y0 ;
That should setup your proper home without the extra moving around. To set that right at 10,10, use G92 X4 Y421 Z353.8