My last clogging needed disassemling again and after inserting the hotend, it was not longer recognized. I unmounted and mounted hotend again and now it was recognized, but it is not longer heating up.
After I had a closer look at the pcb boards, i saw that a connector on the module is broken.
I always mounted and unmounted the hotend as careful as it is possible but something broke there and the connectors not longer work properly. I have no idea what kind of material this is, but for me it is not durable enough. I am really frustrated. This whole module is so embarrassing. I just connected my single extruder and maybe will have a look for v2 of this thing.
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Second report I see of such a thing happeningā¦ First one I heard of support replaced it without much ado. I feel that my anxiety regarding pogo pins is confirmedā¦ Had pogo pins in another 3D printer and hat a lot of trouble with themā¦
Definitely send support an email.
Are we supposed to just shove the shim in there? Or is part of that supposed to be removed to get it in place?
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I think it Just shims in. Iām printing mine now.
What does it even do? I cant tell. Mine doesnt fit.
This thing will NOT print even the most simple tpu available, ninjaflex.
I am like sick to my stomach about this thing. How can it actually feed worse than the original module after telling me it was going to print tpu better.
It just wraps it around the gears and makes a mess.
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Yea, I had mine the right orientation but it appears to be not thick enough. Or itās supposed to be loose.
Anyways, how fast were you trying to print tpu? Did you use the ptfe tubing?
My spacers were so thick i couldnt get it in there. maybe i dont need it.
I did not use the ptfe tubing. Im not sure how it owuld make a difference unless somehow it is squeezing the material like a colon - I couldnt even LOAD the tpu. It would feed about 3 inches and just start wrapping around.
Well, I tried a test between the two nozzles. Left one printed beautifully by itself. Right one? Not so much. It ended up looking good on the first few layers. After awhile it ended up stringy and eventually knocked itself from the sheet.
I give up. It printed fine initially. @Jade whats the plan? I donāt know anyone who has a working dual extruder? Can you fill us in?
I have a beautifully working dual extruder, but I did have to calibrate each nozzle individually. Each nozzle has its own Z-offset. For my extruder, I also calibrated each E-steps individually. So, if one is working and the other not, I suspect itās one or the other or both of those things. See my post above: [First Batch Shipped Out] FAQs of Dual Extrusion 3D Printing Module for Snapmaker 2.0 - #142 by JonnieCache
Maybe this is my current problem. Print starts, then about 5-10 layers in it stops, goes to home and I while the screen freezes the heads are cold. Itās happened three times now.
This thing is garbage.
Print some moreā¦ Youāll see. I did all that with mine. I have a glass bed so I have manually calibrated everything multiple times. My calibration is perfect.
I did not print very much with my DX, but so far it works nicely, no fundamental issues, and I did not even calibrate E-steps. Z-offset is a problem because the firmware most likely is buggy, but using on-the-fly Z adjust I get along. And firmware is an easy fix long term.
mines working quite well, it did take allot of tuning and not using luban. But it does work in the end.
1 Wedge
2 dont use luban (well i find it allot easier to use cura / prusa
3 Learn basic g-code
4 tune and tune and tune
I just had yet another failed print. It is stopping the print after a few layers and the nozzles are cold, the fans have stopped and the head has returned to the home position while the screen is still showing the print in progress.
Iāve turned off the machine and Iām contacting support. Iām done, very done. If I can get a refund maybe Iāll buy a Mosaic Palette 3 and see if that works.
Donāt quote me, but I think this was an issue with an earlier firmware. Do you have the latest release version installed?
Thank you for this post. This was the issue I was running into. Manually setting the z-offset finally helped make things printable.
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So youāre postulating that just changing the z-offset and e-steps will fix my issues? I guess I donāt know how to improve my z-offset; the lines appear correct based on what I can see. Is there something special/different youāre doing for manual z-offset besides using the card? How do you program the right e-step? What Iāve read here indicated that there wasnāt a way to do that.
There are a myriad of settings inside of Cura/Prusaslicer. What did you change in your profiles since there arenāt āstandardā profiles. I see you posted start/end g-code that you werenāt happy with; did you make any changes or is that version āgood enoughā?
Thanks for the help.
I think so - V1.15.21_20230309
I updated it again and tried it again just to be sure, sure enough, same thing. Nozzles cold, fans off, back to home position, and screen saying still printing.
They released a luban 4.7.2 on Fridayā¦ might be worth a shot.