Thanks! Where do I apply it?
I would strongly advise to do the modification as is described at the beginning of this thread - it is not that difficult. Even crafting the distance tubes is easier as you might think.
Having said that, the stock heatbreaks may profit from a good pile of thermal paste as well. You will want to remove the hotends from the printer, loosen and remove both temperature sensor and heater from the heating block, then hold the block with a wrench or pliers and unscrew the nozzle to loosen the block from the heatbreak. Then unscrew the block. Same with the heatbreak - it is countered by the filament guide on top of the cooler. So loosen that and finally unscrew the heatbreak from the cooler. You may clean the remains of thermal paste from it, then apply fresh paste to fill the threads all around - only for the longer section that goes into the cooler! Do not overdo. When screwing the heatbreak back in the excess paste will be pressed out and needs to be removed as soon as the heatbreak is back in place. The procedure to properly position and fasten it again is described in the modification guide above.
You can print a Hotend mount helper from thingiverse. There u can put the Hotend in. That helps for mounting. Thermal paste better not on the nozzle. The heating block is bit short for that speed and flow. Better use the bondtech one. And remember extrude volume setting on the slicer.
Im Out of that never running printer. I got a other one and refund the Snapmaker. The heatbrake change make them a bit better, but if you fix one problem you have the next. Itâs just a beta printer and we all are the testers and burn much money. For the same money you become a real auto level printer with lidar 
Sorry, I donât have more pictures.You only have to buy and change the parts on the list.
As there are so many difficult answers:
I used the MK2 paste only at the distance piece and the upper part of the heat break, you can see it in one picture. Do NOT use it on the nozzle, the temperature is too high directly in the heat block!
Although some say you should craft anything, in my opinion Ătâs a waste of time because my described configuration works fine, even with TPU. I had one more time clogging, but this time only the z offset was too small. After the adjustment it worked fine again.
If the Bambu is sufficient for your needs, then congratulations - and I hope yours wonât suffer from the problems that printer has as well.
But since that one is not an IDEX machine, it would be more or less useless for me - and there are probably other users here as well where this applies.
Therefore it does not really make sense to advertise the Bambu here as you do. I hope they pay you at least for that. 
I only want to say that thing runs since 2 weeks with no problems every day. Yes no idex but faster than J1 and better quality of prints and it doesnât matter he is no idex I got ams, so there are all options possible. Up to 16 colors, support material etc. And a quick support response too.
May I try the J1 later again
Happy printing
AMS is nice (and more flexible than IDEX) for the use case âdifferent colours of the same materialâ, and this is what it is made for. But in my experience it is near to useless with different incompatible materials since you will never get the nozzle 100% clean and constantly need to change temperatures.
Thus, I stay with what I said: the Bambu is too limited to be an alternative for a real IDEX printer as the J1 - at least if you actually use the IDEX functionality.
This part u say about no clean nozzle I canât confirm. You have extra cleaning parameter for the change. So u got a clean nozzle. I have 3 ams and no problems with any kind of color or change and all materials run well. Constantly temperature no problem and u can print all materials. I try PC, Pla CF, TPU, ASA etc no problems.
Donât know where you get your information about the X1c but I canât confirm that
Yes, but this leaves you with a relatively large pile of unusable filament at best, if cleaning works optimal. The worst case is the previous material being dragged into the newly printed lines despite cleaning.
And the list of filaments you state suggests you rarely - if ever - combine different materials in the same print (please note I am not talking about different colours of the same material type here).
Anyway, my experience when it comes to âseveral filaments into one nozzleâ changing systems is quite the opposite, which is why I would never consider buying an X1. Prusa seems to have found that out as well by the way - after years of fighting with their MMU they are currently implementing several new functions into PrusaSlicer which only make sense for multi-hotend printers. I would almost bet they have an IDEX machine in development right now
But that is the reason different printers exist and we may choose what is best for our use case. However that does not mean one printer is per se better than the other.
1 Like
Canât combine different materials too, donât know where the problem is. I can use every filament I want. For Pla I use support filament or PETG. No problem I also combine Pla CF with petg or ASA or TPU. Donât know what there should be not possible. Works nice. And at least itâs a working printer and not a thinker brick.
Try the printer by your self and u will see you can use all Filaments. You have no other color or filament in other printed parts. The nozzle cleaner works fine, and you have the prime tower any way. Donât know who tells that it donât work. But must a very wise guy. LooL 
Can read Bambo wiki there are all informations that u need for the true and can watch on you tube too.
See Ya
Ah, okay, then I misinterpreted your text. Great that it works for you. But on the other hand there are more than enough other users that complain about the typical issues of such filament changers - and other specific issues these printers have, just as the J1 has its own share of bad design decisions. Again, it seems to depend on the user, the material and the parts that are printed.
Why should I do such a thing? My J1 works flawlessly after the hotend upgrade, and the only thing I want to have in addition (a Duet, not the stupid Marlin-based controller) is something I would have to implement into a Bambu as well - which would mean significantly more work since the X1 is a closed source system (which alone would keep me from even considering that thing). They recently gracefully allowed the user firmware downgrades, but only over their mobile app and âcontrolled by BambuLabâ as they explicitly state - wow⊠
Thus, even if I ignored my personal âno nailed shut 3D printersâ policy and got it running as good as you claim to have, I would only get the option to print more than two materials at once (which I donât need) in exchange for producing significantly more waste with every material change - and being even more dependent on the manufacturer as with a stock J1.
Thus: no thanks, I am more than happy with finally having a decent IDEX printer, and I donât plan to ever switch back to a single hotend system.
Not much waste, you can do some selection the printer clean in infill minimal waste and the poop volume u can set too. Im Happy with this printer. He work out of the box, that was the J1 donât do for same money. So I can print multi material and multi color now up to 16 different. And if I want faster than the J1. Itâs just fire and forget. Will be interesting to let them both go to a battle.
Sure, but that trick will weaken the part - and it only works if you actually have infill. Some of the smaller parts I print only consist of perimeters. Therefore this does not count IMO. And reducing the âpoop volumeâ will severely increase the risk of having unwanted material in the nozzle.
Apart from that, the X1 with a 4-colour AMS is already a bit more expensive than the J1. If you actually want to print with 16 colours, you need to pay almost 1100$ extra for the additional AMS units. Would be interesting to see a photo of your own setup with these four AMS units you claim to have though. I would not even have the space to place thoseâŠ
Anyway, the important thing is that you are happy with your printer. For me, the J1 is definitely the better choice of these two - open (yes, took Snapmaker long enough to release the Marlin sources - but a wholly different thing from what Bambu doesâŠ), much less wasted material - and the flexibility IDEX offers over a multi material feeder which I consider a mere crutch to upgrade single-extruder printers.
Letâs conclude this with: you have your printer, I have mine - and neither of us would like to have the one the other one has. But at least I am in the right forum to praise my printer - you however are not
1 Like
Ams cost 400 Euro. And the X1 is 1600. The J1 was 1400. The 200 more for better quality and prints doesnât matter.
No risknof other filament after clean or something. In donât know how, but the printer do that always perfect. I have tested many and the printer runs 2 weeks now. Disapinted from Snapmaker, the X1 runs more in the 2 weeks then the J1 in 3 month. I donât need a printer for mich money that donât print and habe problems and need upgrades and optimation first. Look here in the forum so much people are so disapointet.
And if u honest the X1 is a great printer. Out of the box u can fire and forget them. No upgrades before print needed and faster too and awesome quality
@JohnDoe I think we got it now. Why not move forward to some decent Bambu forum and leave us here behind?
1 Like
Great idea
I wouldnât have thought of that alone.
See ya 
Thanks!!!
After reading his last outpouring, I had given up any further explanations anyway. Being so happy about that printer obviously even impaired his most basic mathematic capabilities, so he obviously either did not pay for the printer or does not have what he claims to have.
That guy is well beyond the point where all hope is lost 
I think Johnâs frustration is understandable though. If you find it heretic or whiny, you donât have to engage? I dont understand why you want to defend Snapmaker when they donât care about providing you with working products in exchange for you money? Snapmaker did, in fact release this 3dprinter with serious issues like for example a hotend prone to clogging and unlubed and/or uncleaned linear bearingblocks. After reading other threads on the forum, one gets the impression that these types of mistakes is more or less standard operating procedure for Snapmaker. Johns venting in this thread is the type of action that can have a negative impacts on their sales and this is probably what is needed in order for Snapmaker to change their behaviourâŠ