Take a look on Amazon. I buy the sunons there.
Got some Tubes from my RC stuff here. This are links from Axle suspension from RC Crawler. Outside 5mm. The inner is an M3. So i Drill them out a bit and the outside i will sand down that it Fits into the Hotend.
You was right, its difficult if you screw a grub into. Better a lose Part. If that dont work i sand the Brass Grub outside down.
if you have the chance to sand and drill, then you have everything you need to make a decent insert. I would suggest you simply buy one of the 5mm/2mm brass pipes you get on Amazon (do not buy the aluminium ones, they are too soft!). Then you don’t have the M3 thread in there which might scrarch off filament over time.
Cut off a piece of ca.20…40mm, clamp it into your drilling machine with the uncut end facing outwards. Turn on the machine and sand it on the outside until it fits in into the hear sink. Then round off the edges of the visible end (inside and outside) with whatever you have available - even a slotted screwdriver or an old pair of scissors will work for scratching off the inner edge.
Turn off the drilling machine, remove the pipe piece, cut off ca. 6mm of the side and tip you just worked on. Then, insert that short piece into the drill vise. Sticking a 2mm drill into the inner hole of the pipe piece will help aligning it: The drill should have a very close fit in the pipe piece and make the visible centre axis longer. Align the part in the drill vise until you will not see the drill tumbling any more if you turn on the drilling machine. Then, remove the drill you stuck in, turnnin the machine, sand sand it to its final length (use something flat to press the sanding paper against the bottom, not your fingers). Then, round off the edges.
My J1 arrived this week, and it started yesterday. I have just disassembled the first and reassemble it for now only with thermal paste. I looked at the fan and find it strange that the hotend fan sits behind the closed radial fan. This complicates the airflow (do not know at the moment in which direction he blows).
Anyway, I found the data on the fan if they are helpful to someone. with me, the marked is installed.
heatbreak fan
material fan
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The hotend fan sucks its air from the area around the extruder motor and from the gap between cooling fan nozzle and hotend and blows it trough the heat sink and out trough the grille on the side of the hotend facing towards the other hotend.
In case anyone wants to increase air flow, he can use the XYJ24B3010H fan variant in your list - that one is available as a replacment fan from E3D for their V6 hotend. I bought two of these before I measured the heat distribution inside the hotend. Now I have them as spare parts since that measurement told me it it would be senseless to replace the original ones.
I see the same, after I disassembled the left hotend yesterday and added thermal paste, ran a 6h job through.
Have already ordered me for safety materials for the conversion and taken these fans from Younuon.
Has anyone ever considered what would happen if the fan is turned around? Then it would suck the air through the heat sink.
Currently he pulls the air from the motor housing which is heated by the engine with. I have after a 3h print almost 10 degrees more in the housing than at fan height above the pressure bed. Thus, the motor would possibly be passively cooled.
AFAIK, usually you say “pushing is more efficient than pulling” when it comes to fans on a cooler since the pushed air is more concentrated directly behind the fan (which also something you can feel). Therefore I would think that the direction Snapmaker chose is the better option in this case.
Potential nozzle option:
Slice has a new nozzle geometry, called AP3X, designed for non-planar and 45 degree belt-printers. But the conical tip should work well for the J1.
They have an even newer version coming in a material called “GammaMaster” that is both hardened and thermally conductive.
Here’s how it would fit, combined with the copperhead heatbreak.
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Now if they would offer that one in 0.2mm as well that would be indeed an interesting option!
But even as it is, this might help users that want to do the heat break switch. Thanks for the information!
I have also confirmed with them that it is electrically conductive, and have placed the order.
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Hi guys,
I would like to share a easy solution for the clogging issues. Its only necessary to buy parts and dis- and reassamble the hotend.
There are two variants I built:
- (recommended):
- You take the original nozzles
- buy the suggested heat breaks (Bondtech MK8 Heat Break für Copperhead Hotends | IGO3D)
- get two of those adapters (Original CNC Kitchen Volcano Adapter Version 2 – CNCKitchen | Many thanks to cnc kitchen, they will offer us 10% if we order two pcs with this code: 1JY7BWV69A1H )
- disassmble the hotend and insert the adapter and the heatbreak with themal compund.
This is the cost efficient variant and takes about 30 min.
- If you want to print very fast and need more flow you can take the same parts but use a CHT Nozzle:
https://www.3djake.de/bondtech/cht-duese-beschichtet-m6-x-175-mm?sai=11690&gclid=CjwKCAjwjYKjBhB5EiwAiFdSfug9tZMKlSQxujjN5QLg2z6std29hychm61SOmk-dQh2zgQ-X6FiLRoCU-kQAvD_BwE
The disadvantage is that with this configuration you might have to shorten the adapter because its very very scarce at the XY calibration.
At first I shortened the adapter, too:
But I crashed afterwards with the bed clamps. This is why I just tried to leave all parts as they are.
The heatbreak might not look perfectly fitting, but I never had a failed print since this rebuild. For the second configuration I took the original steel nozzles.
Thanks to all suppliers, especially CNC kitchen for fast and reliable shipping. Don’t forget the code from CNCKitchen if you want to support german shops: 1JY7BWV69A1H
In the first picture you can see all my fails of the bottle which are my project boxes now… 
I printed two of those bottles to verify the setup and both went very well. The second setup with the steel nozzle needs 15 degree higher temperatures than the configuration with the Bondtech CHT nozzle!
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So you don’t cut the adapter and use them with the copperhead heat break and the original nozzle? Did I understand that right
That’s right!
Hi there - thank you for providing links to order these pieces.
Can I trouble you for more photos or a detailed description of your first option? It seems easiest and I just want to get the printer in working order. Struggling with this thing since January with no assist from Support.
new download link for the PDF
https://sven-duo.hpage.com/get_file.php?id=35286804&vnr=572361
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Hi there! Thanks for finding this configuration. I certainly don’t have the equipment or skill to machine a custom part, so I really appreciate your effort and that you shared your findings.
Can you provide some more detail on the thermal compound? I’ve never replaced these parts on a printer before, so I don’t really know what I ought to be doing for the step where you say:
Recommendations for thermal compound to use and instructions for where and how to use it would be greatly appreciated. 
I used Arctic Silver MK4, since I had it already from some PC work, and did not encounter any issue yet. I believe the type of compound does not matter too much, all you can use for CPUs will do.