Here are some resolutions about that in the forum I mean. If not may be you can try factory Reset
how do you do a factory reset?
may be this helps:
The update from other user here was 10 hours at 80% unfortunately had to pull the plug
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
then switched off/on twice and then carried out the update via WiFi. may be that works with usb stick only with the update file on it
It then worked via WiFi, but to be on the safe side he tried the update from the USB stick again and it worked.
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
I had read that and also tried it, but unfortunately it didn’t work.
But I can try it out again.
I so wish Snapmaker would offer repair kits for this, I would have no issues paying for those for all of my extruders. I would even get the entire new extruder assemblies, as about 50% of the filaments I’m using are unprintable right now.
And to answer a question why I bought this particular 3D printer if I’m not ready to tinker with it (which I think would apply to a significant number of users): I’m reasonably good with tools, and I had zero issues servicing all of my previous printers (up to an original Prusa MK3). I can disassemble a hotend, replace the nozzle, etc - I don’t really enjoy it (and am open to shelling out money to avoid it), but if pressed, I can do it. However, making something on a lathe, etc is definitely way beyond my skills, and in general it’s not something that can be expected from an average 3D printer user, regardless of cost.
Also, I’ve had access to a couple of very (VERY - think tens of thousands of dollars) 3D printers, and I can definitely say they’re nowhere near “set and forget”. In fact, the closest I ever seen to this is my old Prusa - after I assembled and calibrated it (which took some trial and error), it was printing without issues for years.
Snapmaker replied to me today about the problem with the rattling on the X-rail:
German:
Snapmaker hat mir heute geantwortet auf das Problem mit dem Rattern auf der X- Schiene:
Please check the clearance between the silver bracket and the black X-axis die-cast part, there should be a gap of approximately 0.5mm here. If you find any wear on the black X-axis die-cast part, please refer to the picture below, loosen all the screws on the linear rails of the X-axis, adjust the clearance and tighten it.
If the X-axis is still noisy during machine movement, or if the print drifts, we will provide a new track for you to replace.
German:
Prüfen Sie den Abstand zwischen der silbernen Halterung und dem schwarzen Druckgussteil der X-Achse. Hier sollte ein Spalt von etwa 0,5 mm vorhanden sein. Wenn Sie Abnutzungserscheinungen am schwarzen Druckgussteil der X-Achse feststellen, sehen Sie sich bitte die Abbildung unten an, lösen Sie alle Schrauben an den Linearschienen der X-Achse, passen Sie das Spiel an und ziehen Sie es wieder fest.
Wenn die X-Achse bei der Bewegung der Maschine immer noch Geräusche macht oder der Druck abdriftet, erhalten Sie von uns eine neue Schiene, die Sie ersetzen können.
It worked, the scratchy smell is gone. The rail still runs a bit hard, but I think I need to put some grease in the carriage.
Well, let’s see how it goes, I still have the firmware and filament problem.
German:
Es hat funktioniert, das kratzgeräuch ist weg. Die Schiene läuft wohl noch etwas hart, aber da denke ich, ich muss etwas Fett in den Laufwagen geben.
Naja, dann schauen wir mal wie es weiter geht, das Firmware und das Filament- Problem habe ich ja noch immer.
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Thank you for conducting such incredibly detailed testing. Would it be possible to get a copy of the GCode file that was used for the testing? I am playing with a few different modifications and it would be nice to use a consistent benchmark.
Thanks for the hard work on this solution. My J1 and extra hardened nozzle is on order. I’m disappointed to learn that the nozzle has a PTFE center tube. I assumed that a 300 degree nozzle, touted as suitable for fiber-reinforced materials, would be all-metal.
Expensive sale, cheap build.
Sorry I don’t can’t find other words for the mess was going on in so much cases here about the J1
But if it’s work, think can be awesome
hi,
unfortunately i don’t have gcode anymore, but actually it’s quite simple…
Take a cube, then set the upper and lower layer to 0, 2x wall lines without filling.
Then you set, depending on the material, the highest temperature of the respective filament and maximum speed to 350 mm/s.
Then you start slowly by manually turning the speed from 25% up to 100%, at your own discretion.
You can then adjust the temperature if the filament is not melted fast enough.
You then note the values or record the print.
Typical hotends that are not “all-metal” have the PTFE tube extending into the heater block and in direct contact with the nozzle. For all intents and purposes, this is an all metal hotend. The small piece of PTFE tubing sits at the very top of the heatbreak, and is well outside the melt zone. The tube will never see 100C, let alone 300C. The E3D V6 “all-metal” hotend has the PTFE tube closer to the heater block than this J1 implementation. Long story short, you have nothing to worry about.
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J1 saled here in Shops with description “All Metal Hotend up to 300C”
With the Termal Problems i dont think J1 Hotends dont work on 300 fine
Mine was gone melt a bit on 275C and become clogging too
Thanks nnowak, that helps. I still have doubts about 300 degrees thought, given the poor heatbreak efficiency and heat creep.
i have put Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the heatbreak.
That seems to work
@i3sven do you still have the gcode for the XY belt calibrator? If you don’t, I can send it to you and you may upload it here again if you like - it is from Snapmaker after all. Then nnowak may use at least that one if he likes.
@StephenM: regarding the PTFE tube, I can also assure you that this one is way too far up to see anything above 30…50°C. I actually wonder why Snapmaker used that one up there - I admit I do not see any real sense in it. Maybe it might help a little for TPU…?
Basically the hotend is well capable for high temperatures as it is. Take a look at the graph in the presentation - the heat break does its primary job (i.e. decoupling hot and cold zone) really good, even slightly better than the Revo. It just has high friction (that’s what you get when you use titanium, it is simply a material property) and that issue of protruding much too deep into the heat block. And since Titanium chips have a bad tendency to start burning when machined, it is definitely not advisable to rework it at home.
Stupid question… the distance spacer; is it required? I’m not sure I can machine that piece. Would there be an adverse actions to doing what you propose and leaving it out?
Also, I know your research was J1-specific… I have a DX for my A350T… Judging by the pictures of the hot ends they look exactly the same with different colors. Can you see any limitations to giving this a try with a DX? We’re experiencing clogging too.
Chris
I have printed several kilograms of PA, PA-GF, and PA-CF with absolutely flawless results using temps up to 275C (Nylon, Glass reinforced Nylon, and Carbon reinforced Nylon). I have also printed several kilograms of Ingeo 870 based “Pro” PLA at temps from 225C to 240C, again with flawless results.
The ONLY material that has given me any clogging issues is silk PLA, which tends to use lower temps.
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If you leave that one out, you cannot tighten the heat break - so yes, it is required unless you want a freely rotating heat block 
Check the “Assembly” picture.
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Lucky you I had these clogging issues with all PLA variants I use, and PETG as well. But I guess Snapmaker partially solved the issue by significantly lowering the retraction values. - when I started using the J1, the slicer settings were 2mm retract and 90 retracts every… 1.5mm if I remember correctly. That caused really reliable clogging.
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Even at 1mm it’s still causing significant clogging for both the artisan/Ax50 DX owners. I have a spare set of hot ends I’m looking for suitable brass pipe now.
@Mechanikus
I don’t quite understand D5/D2… is that the OD/ID of the pipe? Your schematic indicates it’s 4,5mm and there’s no minimum for the inner diameter? It just needs to survive the heat break being installed?
Thank you for answering my amatuer questions.