I will order 4 of them please 
1 Like
My apologies, and I donât want to take away the good work that has been done.
However, I have to take issue with comments made to others that they should go and buy something else if they donât want to do DIY Printer fix. When I buy something I expect it to work to spec. Would you buy a car that only worked half the time! This is a sure way to go out of business. I should not have to spend days fixing a design problem that is clearly the manufacturerâs problem. I did not buy beta hardware! This is not a budget price printer - A budget is printer $300-400. comparing this to other IDEX printer is not relevant. The way J1 has been priced is to compete in the market and they clearly state IDEX printer for USD 1200. Maybe they should add buyer beware as is! does not always workâŠ
I wonder if you got machine for free or do you work for Snapmaker?
I am not trying to bash Snapmaker here - I am just making a point. In fact I do like the J1 and if it worked with out issues I would have bought second printer for my other office. I cant and wont recommend this printer to anyone.
I hope Snapmaker is listening and fixes the problems - these are design issues that they can easily fix and triple their sales.
1 Like
I understand what you mean, and I can follow it, I think only the relative perspective is a bit different. IMO 3D printers are where cars were in the 1910s - they do look better than they did initially and are certainly much more capable than their predecessors some 10 or 20 years ago, but they do still require intensive care and knowledge. That is the reason why I have some understanding for Snapmaker here, and I expect others to be capable and willing to replace parts on their printer.
But rest assured, neither of us three works for them. AFAIK Snapmaker has no office in Germany and none in the European Union by the way. I knew this and the significant negative impact it has on my right to return the bought object before I bought the printer, so I cannot blame anyone here. And I also knew that this printer tried to achieve things that were previously achieved only on much more expensive printers, so I also knew that there was a risk due to buying a âfirst step on uncharted terrainâ item. Therefore I cannot blame anyone for this as well. And this second point ist what sone others here seem to ignore, and that angers me a bit, to be honest.
This brings me to why we did this: Basically we only share the same 3D printing enthusiasm and really like this printer despite the flaws it was shipped withâŠ
In my case for example, this is based on the fact that the J1 prints so f***ing much better than my old printer⊠well, if it prints that is.
Therefore and in order to save my investment I decided not to sit around and complain like others seem to prefer doing, but to rather do something about it. I do not care in the least about the company or about what they should do or should not have done - I want to be able to use that printer!
Returning was out of the question for me though - prices for people without their own business shipping such a large object back to China are simply ridiculous here. Therefore I experimented a bit first - and happily took the chance when the three of us stumbled upon each other here in the forum.
But just to be clear: IMO, Snapmaker definitely should test what we gave them and provide support to other users by offering them a repair kit or such as soon as possible. If they donât do this and donât openly communicate where they are at the moment (such as something like âwe are building our own test machineââŠ" tests are running"⊠etc), their management is plainly stupid.
1 Like
Sorry, #Mechanikus, I canât really agree with that. I know you have to do some tinkering. I have no problems with that either. But if the printer doesnât work at all because the firmware keeps going down, I expect a quick response from the service department.
Today, after nine days, the service department wrote to me to tell me to send the videos again because the link had expired. You canât really think of anything else but a jerk shop!
I have about 1,400 euros sitting around and I really canât do anything with it, not even an attempt to improve something because I canât boot it up.
When I look at the other forums, Snapmaker also has its problems with the Artisan.
I think they should put a bit more money into the service than into their advertising that runs on all platforms!
German:
Sorry, #Mechanikus, dem kann ich nicht wirklich zustimmen. Ich weiĂ das man etwas basteln muss. Damit habe ich auch keine Probleme. Aber wenn der Drucker ĂŒberhaupt nicht geht weil die Firmware sich stĂ€ndig verabschiedet, da erwarte ich doch eine schnelle Antwort vom Service.
Heute, nach neun Tagen hat mich der Service angeschrieben, dass ich die Videos noch einmal senden soll, weil der Link abgelaufen sei. Da fÀllt einem doch wirklich nichts anderes als Sauladen ein!
Bei mir stehen ca. Euro 1.400 herum und ich kann wirklich garnichts damit machen, nicht einmal ein Versuch etwas zu verbessern, weil ich ihn nicht hochfahren kann.
Wenn ich in die anderen Foren schaue, hat Snapmaker auch mit dem Artisan seine Probleme.
Ich denke die sollten mal etwas mehr Geld in den Service stecken als in ihre Werbung die auf allen Plattformen lÀuft!
1 Like
I only focus on the hotend issue here. Since I neither have the firmware problem you seem to have nor have spent any thoughts on it, I fear I cannot say anything to what you are talking about. Since it seems you are the only one with this issue, I would however suspect that your issue is not a systematic problem but rather some error that happened during the firmware update on your printer. This is bad, but it simply happens, and I do not know if Snapmaker covers such issues. I remember from my old iPhone 4s that Apple did not cover bricking by system updates back then as well.
I hope their support has some solution for you.
Mein Text hier bezieht sich nur auf die Sache mit den Hotends. Nachdem ich Dein Firmware-Problem selbst nicht habe und auch nicht darĂŒber nachgedacht habe, fĂŒrchte ich, daĂ ich dazu nichts sagen kann. Da Du aber offenbar der einzige mit diesem Problem bist, wĂŒrde ich schwer vermuten, daĂ es sich hier nicht um einen systematischen Fehler wie bei den Hotends handelt, sondern daĂ ânurâ bei Deinem Drucker beim Update etwas in die Hose gegangen ist. Das ist zwar doof, aber es passiert nun mal. Ich erinnere mich von meinem iPhone 4s, daĂ auch Apple damals nicht fĂŒr âgebrickteâ funktionsunfĂ€hige GerĂ€te durch Systemupdates aufgekommen istâŠ
Ich hoffe, der Support findet eine vernĂŒnftige Lösung fĂŒr Dich.
Here are some resolutions about that in the forum I mean. If not may be you can try factory Reset
how do you do a factory reset?
may be this helps:
The update from other user here was 10 hours at 80% unfortunately had to pull the plug
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
then switched off/on twice and then carried out the update via WiFi. may be that works with usb stick only with the update file on it
It then worked via WiFi, but to be on the safe side he tried the update from the USB stick again and it worked.
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
I had read that and also tried it, but unfortunately it didnât work.
But I can try it out again.
I so wish Snapmaker would offer repair kits for this, I would have no issues paying for those for all of my extruders. I would even get the entire new extruder assemblies, as about 50% of the filaments Iâm using are unprintable right now.
And to answer a question why I bought this particular 3D printer if Iâm not ready to tinker with it (which I think would apply to a significant number of users): Iâm reasonably good with tools, and I had zero issues servicing all of my previous printers (up to an original Prusa MK3). I can disassemble a hotend, replace the nozzle, etc - I donât really enjoy it (and am open to shelling out money to avoid it), but if pressed, I can do it. However, making something on a lathe, etc is definitely way beyond my skills, and in general itâs not something that can be expected from an average 3D printer user, regardless of cost.
Also, Iâve had access to a couple of very (VERY - think tens of thousands of dollars) 3D printers, and I can definitely say theyâre nowhere near âset and forgetâ. In fact, the closest I ever seen to this is my old Prusa - after I assembled and calibrated it (which took some trial and error), it was printing without issues for years.
Snapmaker replied to me today about the problem with the rattling on the X-rail:
German:
Snapmaker hat mir heute geantwortet auf das Problem mit dem Rattern auf der X- Schiene:
Please check the clearance between the silver bracket and the black X-axis die-cast part, there should be a gap of approximately 0.5mm here. If you find any wear on the black X-axis die-cast part, please refer to the picture below, loosen all the screws on the linear rails of the X-axis, adjust the clearance and tighten it.
If the X-axis is still noisy during machine movement, or if the print drifts, we will provide a new track for you to replace.
German:
PrĂŒfen Sie den Abstand zwischen der silbernen Halterung und dem schwarzen Druckgussteil der X-Achse. Hier sollte ein Spalt von etwa 0,5 mm vorhanden sein. Wenn Sie Abnutzungserscheinungen am schwarzen Druckgussteil der X-Achse feststellen, sehen Sie sich bitte die Abbildung unten an, lösen Sie alle Schrauben an den Linearschienen der X-Achse, passen Sie das Spiel an und ziehen Sie es wieder fest.
Wenn die X-Achse bei der Bewegung der Maschine immer noch GerÀusche macht oder der Druck abdriftet, erhalten Sie von uns eine neue Schiene, die Sie ersetzen können.
It worked, the scratchy smell is gone. The rail still runs a bit hard, but I think I need to put some grease in the carriage.
Well, letâs see how it goes, I still have the firmware and filament problem.
German:
Es hat funktioniert, das kratzgerÀuch ist weg. Die Schiene lÀuft wohl noch etwas hart, aber da denke ich, ich muss etwas Fett in den Laufwagen geben.
Naja, dann schauen wir mal wie es weiter geht, das Firmware und das Filament- Problem habe ich ja noch immer.
1 Like
Thank you for conducting such incredibly detailed testing. Would it be possible to get a copy of the GCode file that was used for the testing? I am playing with a few different modifications and it would be nice to use a consistent benchmark.
Thanks for the hard work on this solution. My J1 and extra hardened nozzle is on order. Iâm disappointed to learn that the nozzle has a PTFE center tube. I assumed that a 300 degree nozzle, touted as suitable for fiber-reinforced materials, would be all-metal.
Expensive sale, cheap build.
Sorry I donât canât find other words for the mess was going on in so much cases here about the J1
But if itâs work, think can be awesome
hi,
unfortunately i donât have gcode anymore, but actually itâs quite simpleâŠ
Take a cube, then set the upper and lower layer to 0, 2x wall lines without filling.
Then you set, depending on the material, the highest temperature of the respective filament and maximum speed to 350 mm/s.
Then you start slowly by manually turning the speed from 25% up to 100%, at your own discretion.
You can then adjust the temperature if the filament is not melted fast enough.
You then note the values or record the print.
Typical hotends that are not âall-metalâ have the PTFE tube extending into the heater block and in direct contact with the nozzle. For all intents and purposes, this is an all metal hotend. The small piece of PTFE tubing sits at the very top of the heatbreak, and is well outside the melt zone. The tube will never see 100C, let alone 300C. The E3D V6 âall-metalâ hotend has the PTFE tube closer to the heater block than this J1 implementation. Long story short, you have nothing to worry about.
1 Like
J1 saled here in Shops with description âAll Metal Hotend up to 300Câ
With the Termal Problems i dont think J1 Hotends dont work on 300 fine
Mine was gone melt a bit on 275C and become clogging too
Thanks nnowak, that helps. I still have doubts about 300 degrees thought, given the poor heatbreak efficiency and heat creep.
i have put Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut High Performance Thermal Grease on the heatbreak.
That seems to work
@i3sven do you still have the gcode for the XY belt calibrator? If you donât, I can send it to you and you may upload it here again if you like - it is from Snapmaker after all. Then nnowak may use at least that one if he likes.
@StephenM: regarding the PTFE tube, I can also assure you that this one is way too far up to see anything above 30âŠ50°C. I actually wonder why Snapmaker used that one up there - I admit I do not see any real sense in it. Maybe it might help a little for TPUâŠ?
Basically the hotend is well capable for high temperatures as it is. Take a look at the graph in the presentation - the heat break does its primary job (i.e. decoupling hot and cold zone) really good, even slightly better than the Revo. It just has high friction (thatâs what you get when you use titanium, it is simply a material property) and that issue of protruding much too deep into the heat block. And since Titanium chips have a bad tendency to start burning when machined, it is definitely not advisable to rework it at home.