Enclosure door sides

Is it possible to switch which side the doors are on the enclosure for the Snapmaker 2.0?

I want to put this in the corner of the room and was hoping to have both sliding doors accessible, but the way my permanent tables are setup it doesn’t work out.

what it looks like to me is that it is possible…

This is just me looking at the pieces of the assembled enclosure, so I’ve not tried this at all. But… it LOOKS like if you switch some of the individual pieces to swap the door to the other side. Next time i take apart my enclosure enough with those pieces, I could see if that works.

It could be that once those pieces are turned around, they don’t work, but if I’m remembering correctly, there was no “left” and “right” for the long pieces, so those might not even have to be swapped, only the uprights. But again, have not tested, just going by memory of building the enclosure.

Thanks for the advice for I realized after I posted that I would need to have 3 sides be accessible or else I could get the filament on, even if it did work out. After a quick trip to home depot and some “engineering” I have a table adapter that’s going to work instead.

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I would love to see your table adaptor design. It may help others who have tight working spaces :slight_smile:

Is there a definite official answer ?

I will try to re-assemble it with the folding door on the left side.

Brand new on here and also to the Snapmaker but I am also interested in the door-swap possibility.

Looking at the design of the 2.0 enclosure, swapping the sides would firstly mean that the LED connectors would be too far away from the hub so the existing connecting cables would not be long enough. Then there is also the issue of where the door magnets and recesses would need to be to line up with the doors.

Would the door switch for the front also need to se swapped to the opposite side too ?

I have only partially assembled my enclosure so far so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

We have received a similar request to invert the X axis.

I just received my Snapmaker2 and I have had the same problem with the large door.

What I’ve done … The door sensor could be easily build to the left. The sensor themselve should be turned to get the cable out to the right side.
The LED lines could be turned by removing just two srews. After that the LED cable fits perfectly.
The door elements are also replaceable but the controller does not fit perfectly. The holder needs to be shifted approx. 5 mm to the right what can be done with drilling new holes or with a self printed holder.

BUT I have one (or two) main PROBLEM(s)! The frame does not have the needed srewing holes for mirroring the doors. Both doors opens only 2/3 because the sliding mechanism and the magnets are on the wrong place. Posibly this can be changed if the top and bottom frame are switchable what I’ve not tested.

I would be appreciated if someone can fix this without drilling new holes into the frames.

I wanted to share my solution to getting the doors to open from the other side. I ended up rotating the enclosure 180 degrees lengthwise and relocating some of the shorter rails/beams. The doors align and close just fine and there are a few drawbacks that I feel my workarounds solve:

  • Foot fixtures: The bottom rails have extra screw holes and indentations so that the foot fixtures can be installed precisely. The top rails lack these indentations and screw holes.
    • Solution: If you have bought the emergency stop button you may have four spare T-nuts and M4x8 screws you can use (if not you can buy extra M4 2020 T-nuts or you can just drill and tap new threaded holes in the rails). You should also measure the distance between the indentation and the end of the bottom rails and mark them on the top rails with a marker.
  • Touchscreen: Since we’re rotating everything 180 degrees the touchscreen cutout on the front door will be at the top instead of the bottom. We’ll be fixing this by flipping the panel but this will place the foam strips facing out instead of in.
    • Solution: Buy some 10 mm wide by 3 mm thick self-adhesive weather stripping (or cut yours to size).
  • Top panel: The bottom side of the enclosure doesn’t have as many screw holes as the top. Only the two narrow sides of the top panel will have holes that align.
    • Solution: You can drill additional holes on the plexiglass top panel or using more T-nuts but I ended up just relying on the four screws to hold the top panel in place, so this was a non-issue for me.

These are the steps I took:

  1. Remove all plexiglass panels and doors.
  2. Remove the rear top (with the converter hub) and rear bottom 24 BEAM A350-4 rails.
  3. Measure the offsets of the foot fixture indentations on the bottom rails (my enclosure measured 123 mm offset).
  4. Facing front to back flip the entire enclosure 180 degrees (e.g. top is now on the bottom).
  5. Relocate the LED strips from the bottom to the top rails (the tiny screws aren’t necessary).
  6. Flip the hall sensor (little black box on a vertical rail) 180 degrees so you can run the cable along the top.
  7. For the foot fixtures insert two M4 2020 T-nuts into each bottom rail.
  8. Mark on the now-bottom rails the foot fixture offsets.
  9. Reinstall the rear rails, keeping the one with the converter hub at the top.
  10. Install the doors. Flip the small-door panel with the touchscreen cutout and apply the self-adhesive weather stripping on the flipped panel.

And here are some pictures: Snapmaker 2.0 A350T Enclosure Door Reversal - Album on Imgur

Snapmaker should make the rails universal allowing them to be used in any position. That would save them money as there are less part-numbers.
I rotated my A350 90° from the start. The only thing that turned out to be missing were the 4 threaded holes to attach the brackets that keep the enclosure in place. Not really a problem.