On trying to calibrate the dual extruder, I’m having issues with the calibration. Basically, it ignores the Z height. I already have big issues with a non-flat / wavy bed (see this topic which I’ve highjacked - Dual Extruder First Layer Issue - #5 by Doogs75, and the photo below which shows the first layer of a raft, where the raft is printing (and barely adhering) at the bottom, but engraving the bed at the top), but on top of that, the alignment test is ignoring the Z height and engraving the bed.
You can see in the above, that the calibration lines are woeful - it’s just squidging plastic all over the place and embedding the head in the base. This is after setting the Z height to 1mm above the bed (setting it correctly, then raising one mm for both heads - I then lowered it again before doing the test print as this does the correct height). If I don’t alter the Z height, the calibration lines are printed at the exact same height, also trying to bury into the bed. This is with 0.4mm nozzles. If I change to the 0.2mm nozzles (because I actually want to do a 0.2mm print), then it cannot even force plastic out onto the bed… it just makes the marks.
Before anyone suggests Z height or bed calibration for either issue. I’ve done them both - it didn’t help.
The non-flat issue also seems to generate blockages (so far not as bad as, but similar to Dual extruder stops to extrude ). You can see this in the missing gap of the raft above. So far, I’ve been able to force these out, but only by manually releasing the drive wheel and pushing the plastic through myself. It’s led to most of my dual-extruder prints failing. Funnily enough, it doesn’t seem to block the single-extruder, so something in the new design is not as robust.
Yep - tried that one. No good, still warped (I did have an 11x11 suggested to me by @Wyphorn, which I haven’t tried yet.
If that doesn’t fix (ie. work around) the issue, I’m starting to think I may have to run a fly cutter over the bed from the CNC to smooth the top. It’s going to screw my adhesion, but at least it’d be level-ish. (wonders if you can get just a surface to replace the old?)
I’ve had to go back to the single-head to get the job I’m doing done (it is reliably printing prints that the dual head is not - even when using only the left head - maybe some twist or sag in the X drive from the extra weight?).
I’ve done the 11x11 level, but was confused by whether the machine would remember that specific calibration when it then goes back and does a 5x5 to be able to do the final z height paper test (or did I miss something in the instructions - that seems to be the only way to do the final test/set?).
Anyway… it seems a bit better and I’m doing parts which aren’t dimensionally critical, so I’m going to get them done.
I will try the calibration sheet, etc., at a later date when time allows (will probably be late August or Sept. before I can get back to random testing).
Also, I found my blockages were caused by the nozzle gouging the bed (it’s very warped) and this being pushed up into the nozzle.
I saw something about SM providing replacement beds if we did have bed-gouging issues with the dual extruder, but I can’t seem to find it again… Anyone know if this is still a thing?
You can order a new surface on snapmaker support. Or you can pre Order the Quick Swap Kit since there is also a new frame. You can use the “warped one” for laser / CNC.
And yes, for sure warped beds should not delivered in a 1500€ machine. When mine would be really bad (but it isn’t, i can print pretty well all over the bed), then I would run a measurement for surface like here: On achieving a perfect level
And when it is really out of specs, then support should arrange some new frame for free.