Newbie here… I’m trying to download Cura and it is asking to find the printer. All it’s choices are NOT Snapmaker and it will not find it with the IP address… Help ! !
I belive “other” or “custom” is an option on the list… there is no default profile for the SM2 on cura.
I didn’t see “ other” but I’ll look again.
Thank you for the answer…
In the “Add a printer” menu, click Custom > Custom FFF Printer and supply a name for your printer. (I used “Snapmaker A350”.)
Below are my Cura settings for the Snapmaker.
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Howdy… This is just outstanding information… I’ve got it almost done but have a question…Did you enter the “Start G-Code” and the “End G-Code” information yourself?? After I put in the printer and printhead setting it autofilled some information in the “Start and End” codes, but it is not like what you have in your example. It seems less detailed… Should I copy and enter what you have or leave it as is?? This is what I have now:
Thank you so much… You have no idea how much you’ve helped this novice printer dude out…
Regards,
Bob
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I believe that those start and end codes came from Rainie Zou
Note: at the bottom of Raine’s post there is info on importing Cura profiles for the Snapmaker.
I suggest that you go through the start and end code line by line so that you understand what it is doing. I also have a Lulzbot TAZ 5 and have heavily modified that start/end code. (Mostly putting in comments to remind me what the heck the g-code is doing.)
I have opinions of those start and end codes.
At the end, do not G28 X Y. That will drag the nozzle sideways across the model. Do a G28 Z, which will home the toolhead straight up and eliminate any chance of collision.
At the start, reorder the heating codes (like someone else posted), so it will begin heating the bed and extruder at the same time.
And at the start, and end, I find those prime and retraction gcodes ugly, but that’s just my preference :P. My Cura does a 1mm retraction at the end, so I only want 1 additional mm of retraction, so that the total is 2mm. Next print will be 1mm short on the prime, and will be made up in the skirt, prevents oozing.
Here’s my start and end:
Let’s link back to the official support page: https://support.snapmaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360044341034-What-is-the-recommended-3D-printing-settings-in-Cura-or-Simplify3D-for-Snapmaker-2-0-
Those settings are useful for machine dimensions, but the start and end gcode leaves a lot to be desired.
By leaving the hot nozzle in place at the end it’s ensuring the model will melt.
And by hardcoding the temperatures they ignore all of the internal Cura temp settings that are easy to change, likely misleading users into not understanding why the machine is printing at a different temp than they set in the interface.
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@brent113 I think you need to read the start and end code provided by SM in that link… It does not hard set temps, nor does it leave the extruder in place at the end… I will agree it should lift the extruder a little before homing x and y but other than that it is acceptable.
@Atom I was looking at the start gcodes in the images:
Those images also don’t have a nozzle move.
I see now at the bottom what you’re referring to, the text start and end gcode. I didn’t even see that the first 3 times I looked, I didn’t make it past the images.
Yeah I noticed the images g code was all messed up… but I’m pretty sure in my engineering classes they tought us to read thing all the way through before making a conclusion 
but really it happens to all of us but I do think that code at the bottom is acceptable, though has plenty of room for improvement.
In my engineering classes they taught us +/-10% is acceptable margin of error. Hahaha.
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So, I started this whole string looking for a simple answer to what appears to be a huge problem… Y’all need to read thru this string of messages and pretend you are a novice just trying to get your new machine set uo.
If this is how it is going to go, I will be selling this A350 and cabinet.
Is there no simple set of settings that won’t destroy the machine when it’s turned on?? That’s all I was asking for to begin with.
Not real happy with Snapmaker for not stepping in and helping out. They seem to have disappeared.
Regards,
Bob
Leave it and try a print. If you’re happy with it, awesome.
If not, post again and recommendations can be made.
If you’re interested in starting to build your understanding of what the individual codes mean, a good reference is this: Gcode | Marlin Firmware
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Yes that’s why I actually pasted the official support link which is not bad as per the follow ups.
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While you are not wrong in one sense, the company is so busy keeping up with demand that the niceties aren’t all there, be patient. Or sell yours , I promise it’ll get snapped up quickly.
But if you read here and on FB, plenty of people are willing to jump in and help.
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