I’m using a flat end mill.
For surfacing you want a flat bit.
While it’s possible to do it with other bits it will take forever because what’s called the stepover (how far the bit moves for every pass or how much each pass overlaps) has to be really small.
You can mill with a 3.175 flat end mill like the one that came with the SM, but I bought a flat end mill that’s 1/4" (6.35mm) so I could cover more area. For that I also had to buy a new collet (the part that clamps around the bit when you screw the nut down). The standard collet that come with the SM is 1/8" (3.175mm). SM uses ER11 collets. For any new size bits you’ll need a matching collet. Fortunately you can get a set cheap. Even better is that you’ll probably really only need the 1/4" one. (the majority of bits have either 1/8" or 1/4" shank)
For harder woods (oak,maple) I use a .5mm step down. For softer woods I can sometimes get away with 1mm. 340mm/m work speed and 240mm/m plunge speed seems to be best combo of speed and smoothness and not straining the motor. Listen as it’s cutting and you’ll get a feel for it but it’s pretty obvious when the motor is straining and working too hard.
I’m not sure why Luban uses fill density. (maybe because it’s a terribly designed program)
Every other program uses percentage or an actual measurement to set stepover. I leave it at 4 when I use Luban, but generally I use Fusion or Easel to create my tool paths. I can choose travel direction in those and I prefer to be able to have my tool paths travel parallel to the grain. In those I use 50% or 33% depending on how nice and smooth I need it. 33% if it needs to be a finished surface I’m going to sand. 50% if it just needs to be level to start.
Hope this all makes sense and helps.
(was going to be a much shorter response originally)
-S
3 Likes