Benchy sliced in Orca worse than in Luban

Hi,

I’m trying to switch from Luban to Snapmaker Orca. I started with benchy to get the better feeling for various settings. Unfortunately no matter what I do I get pretty unsatisfying results. It cannot lay on the printer itself (2.0 A350), benchy sliced in Luban looks quite ok.

In the picture on the left side is benchy sliced in orca, on the right in luban.

In both cases I used default settings.

I there some setting I need to change to get rid out f this problem?

Thanks,
PK

Looking at them, they both seem to have a few issues. My guess is Luban is laying down thicker lines, which are holding better along the front of the bow and unable to curl up. However, orca has a thinner perimeter line, which is curling up a little bit. Could also be seam position, the Luban one looks like it’s got a few Z seam dots in the bow so it’s starting/finishing there and getting extra cooling.

I mention this because outside of the bow curl on the left, the finer details along the portholes and top lip are much better. The porthole and lip look rough and chunky on the one on the right. The layer consistency is also a bit better, despite the bow curling, on the Orca one. As mentioned above it looks like Z-seam dots, if this isn’t where the seam is, then it’s inconsistent layer extrusion. It also looks like the layers aren’t exactly stacked perfectly. It could be lighting and nitpicking, but it’s something I noticed.

I don’t know the default settings for either slicer, but you should try Orca (given the better details up top) and spin the benchy around so the bow faces the cooling fan (should be left if memory serves).

Did you try any other settings of Orca for comparison?

Here is a small guide about print defects and how to avoid it:
https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/

Thanks for your answers!
I’m gonna give it a try and play with some settings staring with Z-seam, cooling and extrude temperature.

Same experience here, i like the UI of Orca but the results as slicer with Snappies are not close to Luban.

I’m givin up on orca for now…

After playing with numerous settings like line width, flow ratio, number of lines for walls,
opening/closing the enclosure, fan speed, temperature, print speed, etc.
I got exactly nowhere and benchy still looks bad.

I must admit I was kind of naively assuming that SnapMaker releasing its own Orca has
prepared the settings, so that it will work out of the box, at least for the basic prints
(I know it’s a beta, but on the website you can read “Download now for early access to features that
simplify setup, improve slicing, and optimize prints on Snapmaker machines”).
Especially that the settings required are known - Luban prints are ok most of the time.

Once it didn’t work I was hoping I’m missing something obvious, but reading the answers,
I suppose it’s not the case (?)

So, I guess I’ll just wait till first non beta version is released.

My last attempt printed with luban and Orca default profiles.
Left luban, right Orca.

More Details from orca print:

There were no changes between the prints.
And thats where I stopped trying. It is to frustrating.

I’ve done very last test and it looks like I could fix some the problems I was having.


On the left side is the benchy sliced in orca, on the right in luban.
It’s far from perfect, but it is comparable with what comes from luban.
It also a different filament, but I run out of the other one.
This one was actually causing more issues on the orca.

And here an example from orca with red filament.

What I did was going down drastically on the print speed for walls (=20 mm/s) and turning off the “Slow down for curled perimeters” and “Slow down for overhangs” (both Speed / Overhang speed). The slowing down was causing a problems due to big variance between the speeds and filament extruded. One could tweak pressure advance to fix it, I went for speed (luban is quite slow on walls as well).
Other changes were flow ratio (=1) and line width (=0.5mm).

Here the settings for the filament:

{
    "filament_flow_ratio": [
        "1"
    ],
    "filament_settings_id": [
        "Anycubic PLA Basic @Snapmaker A350 (0.4 nozzle) - 8"
    ],
    "from": "User",
    "inherits": "Anycubic PLA Basic @Snapmaker A350 (0.4 nozzle)",
    "is_custom_defined": "0",
    "name": "Anycubic PLA Basic @Snapmaker A350 (0.4 nozzle) - 8",
    "version": "2.2.3.0"
}

And here for the process:

{
    "enable_overhang_speed": "0",
    "from": "User",
    "gap_infill_speed": "50",
    "inherits": "0.24 Draft @Snapmaker (0.4 nozzle)",
    "initial_layer_infill_speed": "30",
    "initial_layer_line_width": "0.6",
    "initial_layer_speed": "30",
    "inner_wall_line_width": "0.5",
    "inner_wall_speed": "30",
    "internal_solid_infill_line_width": "0.5",
    "internal_solid_infill_speed": "80",
    "is_custom_defined": "0",
    "line_width": "0.5",
    "name": "0.24 Draft @Snapmaker (0.4 nozzle) - 13",
    "outer_wall_line_width": "0.5",
    "outer_wall_speed": "20",
    "print_settings_id": "0.24 Draft @Snapmaker (0.4 nozzle) - 13",
    "slowdown_for_curled_perimeters": "0",
    "sparse_infill_line_width": "0.5",
    "sparse_infill_speed": "80",
    "top_surface_line_width": "0.5",
    "top_surface_speed": "30",
    "travel_speed": "50",
    "version": "2.2.3.2",
    "wall_loops": "4"
}

Disclaimer: use on your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage caused.

I haven’t tested this with other layer hights. It will probably also work with slightly higher print speeds. I tested is with Anycubic PLA (red one) and Creality PLA (grey one).

The downside is the long printing time, but it is not longer than the one from luban.