Temp on bed 120 is no Problem.
I use them for all Filaments
I simply can’t get a setting with the PEI plate to not get a lot of warping at the edges of my prints. I only tried PLA so far.
I tried cleaning it with a decent degreaser without success. The bed is leveled fine. Yet it still doesn’t work.
I tried several times to print the front of the following model without success: Pocket Operator Case by crashdebug - Thingiverse
The edges close to the display gets the warping effect.
I would be thankful if someone could give me hints on what settings I should use to print this. Or even better … a gcode file in addition to test on my machine.
Thank you in advance
@Haemsti If there is much grease on the surface, wiping with degreaser might not be enough. Try soap and water. You can also increase bed temp and reduce z-offset/increase flow @ layer 1. But some models like to warp more than others and you need to use a brim for those. So if you don’t like to use brims, the PEI surface is simply not good enough for some models. I would recommend using a polycarbonate sheet for clean PLA prints without warping and brims. It is far superior to PEI when printing PLA imo.
Thank you for your insight, @Rwide
I’m pretty sure there is no grease left on the surface. Even used a toothbrush to thoroughly scrub away everything in the grooves of the PEI surface too.
I tried to print a bit closer to the bed and increase flow rate at the first layer already. Without success.
I think you are right… This model and the PEI surface aren’t going along well together 
I didn’t try using a brim because of the success stories here about how great this surface works. Pretty sure it would work, though 
Never heard of polycarbonate sheet so far, thank you for the hint.
To be honest, I gave up trying after the seventh try and used a little bit of 3dlac on the PEI side. And tadaaaa… It worked
After several more tries, I think I simply was too afraid of higher bed temperatures.
Switching from 60°C to 70°C helped.
At least the last two prints of pretty big models were a success and there was no warping.
@Haemsti That’s great! I did the same. A lot better adhesion @ 70c compared to 60. But I have now started to use polycarbonate sheet for my PLA prints and it is so awesome.
No more elephants foot
No more warping regardless of the shape of object
No need for brims
No need for glue stick or other adhesion agents
No more cleaning the surface (just “wipe” it with sand paper between prints)
Nice and smooth underside
Perfect adhesion every time
I highly recommend it.
Thank you for the hint about polycarbonate. I have to find out where to get such a print bed here in Switzerland.
(or print on old CDs or DVDs 
)
Update: Found a shop, ordered a 5mm sheet to use it directly in the J1. Will report as soon as I have made some test prints.
@Haemsti Haha 
sure no problem! I’ve heard similar things about FR4/G10/garolite for printing Nylon and PETG but I havent tested it yet so can’t say for sure…
If you do try using PC sheet. Dont forget to use sandpaper on the surface or the prints might get permenantly stuck to it 
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Hi all,
A bit late to the conversation but I did also experience issues with bed adhesion in the beginning. It might partially have been grease but temperature sure also played a big role. Currently I am printing both PLA and PETG @80°C. However where you put (the corners of) your model does also play a role.
During my troubleshooting I did some measurements on how uniform the bed heating was. Below is a 2D interpolated plot of >40 strategically placed measurement points
Although seemingly not that much difference, a delta of 4°C can make the difference between sticking and not sticking.
PS: I would’ve added the actual measurement plot but “as a new user” I can only add 1 embedded media object sigh
Regards
How does it look at 70, 80, 100 and 120°C, does it stay the same difference?
Does it align if it stays/heat for a longer period like 30mins?
4°C seems very homogen compared to other machines. Personally I think it’s not making a difference and could be compensated relatively easy.
But hey, recently read this thread and learned a lot about specific print sheets per material..
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Agreed. Generally my experience is, I need to change 10 C on any given printer to see a noticeable change in bed adhesion due to bed temp. 5 C is fine tuning. Other issues like z offset/leveling or a dirty plate are worse.
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With my understanding of thermal physics I would guess that the delta will be in the same order of magnitude for build plate higher temperatures. They might slightly increase due to the delta of the build plate w.r.t internal volume of the printer (higher overall convection so “suboptimaal” heating would be impacted more). Given the heating plate features this might impact the center more.
I am trying to get my hands on a thermal meter that goes beyond 40-ish degrees to do this exact experiment.
Regards
Only wondering how it would look, no real need of this tests for me. 
For better resolution I took an temperature profile of the build plate with an thermal imager at 70°C.
The upper edge of the picture is the front edge of the build plate.
For an excellent bed adhesion I recommend to coat the glass side of the build plate with capton foil.
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For most materials (like PLA, PETG, and TPU filament), you generally don’t need any extra adhesion aids — just keep the surface clean, free of dust, and dry.