Yes. .05 mm per pass. Don’t remember how many passes. I stopped when the shortest boss was .2mm taller than the frame. The end mill never even touched the left rear corner so I had to shim it with a piece of aluminum tape.
The head had to be mounted 1 bolt hole to the right. I used washers to hold that side to the mount.
I’ve been thinking I need to get my spider frame onto my mill and check it for flatness. I assumed that was what you were doing as well - until I realised that you were using the Snapmaker itself to mill the spider frame down! Did you get a dial gauge onto it first?
I wanted to be sure that it was true to the machine. That would not have been possible if I had removed it to machine it. I had measured it previously and used paper eyelets to shim it. It was unnecessary to measure it again until after it was machined. My only real concern was to be sure not to cut the bosses too far down as to allow any attached board to rest on the spider. I measured it when finish and found less that .03mm deviation on any but the left rear boss.
The only reason I ask is (and for reference for other people attempting the same task) that if the bed is, say slanted in one direction, it might be best to shim it to reduce the average error before machining the bosses to level them all out.
The other thing to watch is that your Z axis slides are in line. If there is a difference in the zero positions of the two slides, it will show up as a slant on the bed along the X axis. About the only way I can think of to ensure they are lined up is to pull the X axis all the way to the hard stops at the top of the two Z axis slides with the power turned off. At this stage, the Z axis slides don’t appear to home themselves individually. This means that any difference in Z height between the two slides won’t be removed when you home the Z axis.
Hi, how do you dismount the sensor from the vent part? I am trying to replace the sensor from the old head to the upgraded one. The vent part is different so I have to detach the sensor from the support. In both cases there is like a white glue, like silicone. I do not want to break anything so hints are welcome.
I got the Panasonic GX-H8A sensor from DigiKey. $37 with tax and shipping. Doesn’t come with the connector so you either have to install one yourself or splice into the old connector. TINY parts, fairly difficult task. I just tested it and this sensor does work. More expensive than getting it from China, but didn’t have a 4 week wait.
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I glued my replacement sensor back to the support bracket with Gorilla Glue. If it ever fails again it won’t be easy to replace. Mine came loose, dragged and caught the filament and got melted.
EDIT: Don’t use Gorilla Glue. It melted. Switched to CYA. Hope it works better.
CYA melted also. Probably needs a high temp silicone or something like that. I wedged a small screw in to hold it all in place. Totally wrong solution but so far it works
Did you end up using silicone and did it work?
I ended up replacing the sensor and mount with parts from Snapmaker.
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I just faced the same issue with this stupid sensor today. The sensor in my unit was melted!!! So, just left the sensor out, reassembled the print head and ran manual leveling calibration thing. It is working good now, just test printed a part. If it can work without that sensor, then I am not gonna bother getting a replacment.
There is a parts list here - GitHub - shurushetr/awesome-snapmaker: Curated list of things that help you make something awesome with Snapmaker machines.
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