Discuss and explore Snapmaker J1 3D printer with makers from all over the world.
What are the dimensions?
Print dimentions:
Default Mode & Backup Mode:
300 mm × 200 mm × 200 mm
(11.8" × 7.87" × 7.87")
Copy Mode:
160 mm × 200 mm × 200 mm
(6.29" × 7.87" × 7.87")
Mirror Mode:
150 mm × 200 mm × 200 mm
(5.9" × 7.87" × 7.87")
The machine itself is
539mm x 401mm x 464mm
(21.2" × 15.78" × 18.26")
is there a way to manually level the bed?
bed leveling is done via the leveling knobs and prompts given to you in the bed leveling section of the calibration menu
Yes, but print surface is not ideal.
I have perfect bed level, but when I put PEI/Glass surface on - my left and rear sides are lower than front and right. I can not compensate for that in calibration menu.
I was thinking, I can do it manually with included calibration card, but there is no way to move the bed close enough to the nozzle.
Normally I preheat the nozzle and the bed to temperature used by my filament.
PETG example: nozzle 240 Degees Celsius, bed 85 degrees Celsius, put calibration card between the nozzle and print surface and adjust leveling knobs to have best possible level.
How can I do it on Snapmaker J1?
I have tried to execute this gcode:
G28
G1 Z0 F100
It did not move the bed under the nozzle
I have perfect bed level, but when I put PEI/Glass surface on - my left and rear sides are lower than front and right.
I have the exact same issue, but in reverse. I have a high point in the back left, and I’ve had to use aluminum foil to shim the front and right parts of the bed to get it level. If it was an even amount of offset around the bed, I would use the leveling knobs to fix it, but it’s disproportionate across the regions of the bed.
I have the same issue . The back left corner is 0.17mm to high. I traced it down to the fact that the left back corner of the frame is too low (the point where the Y slide is screwed in the back). I don’t know how to raise it.
I was having the common clogging issue. First time it was due to clogged nozzle. The rest of the times I couldnt figure out why I kept getting clogs which caused printer to pause.
Figured out that the issue was due to the nozzle being to close to the bed. After trying to manually level the bed I gave up and ended up placing some old bed springs from another printer on the aluminum bed to support the rear left and right of the print bed. I used double sided tape holding the new springs to the aluminum. I then tightened down the center rear sping until rear left and right were sitting on the new springs lightly. Then did the stock bed level procedure.
The bed is almost completely level now. Maybe only a mm or 2 too high on the rear right.
(Forgive grammatical errors- this was compiled on phone)