Hi, I have managed to print a few things successfully, but find that this is a bit erratic - I can print something lovely, then go to print something else straight after, using the same filament and settings and it’s either welded to the bed or doesn’t stick at all. I did some looking on here and found a link to Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration, which seemed to be a good place to start. But, when I do the Auto Bed Leveling, before adjusting the Z axis, it’s positioned over 5mm from the bed, which really seems a lot to have to adjust - down 13 times on 0.5mm and then once on 0.1mm using the calibration sheet that came with my A350. Have I done something completely wrong somewhere? the sensor seems to check to the left side of the bed, to the left of centre and aligning with the K in Snapmaker of the bed - which isn’t really centering the square of checks - is this right? Also, when doing the first layer print from the Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration, if I put the size of the bed as 350 x 330 (which it’s supposed to be) the squares on the left are “printed” off the edge of the bed. Reducing the size to 300 x 300 prints half of the left square on the edge of the bed. I’m thinking that I’ve got something set up wrong and the print head is further to the left than it should be.
Here is a link to a video I did of the gap at the end of the ABL and how much I have to adjust to get the calibration sheet to just bend when pushed (and if that’s not the right way, please let me know what is!) Z-Axis Adjustment
On mine it is pretty high when I have to do the final manual adjustment. I think it may be an over-correction for the problems people were having with the nozzle hitting the bed during calibration, but it’s preferable to have to do that then damage the bed. Most people have found the pull/no push method one adjustment too low.
The sensor is to the right of the nozzle. So when it’s calibrating it’s putting the sensor to the point where the nozzle will be when printing.
Where are you putting the size of the bed? Make sure in Luban you have the right model of SM selected.
Share pictures of your SM and we can help double check your assembly. From front at bed level and front angled down at height of z-towers are good.
-S
Thanks for the help. I feel better about how high it is before the final adjustment now, and think I understand where it’s going when it calibrates (the position of the sensor and not the nozzle)
I have checked in Luban and I do have the A350 selected.
Where I put the size of the bed is on the Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration site on the step for creating gcode for first layer test (this was a link that Brent113 posted in his Snapmaker 2.0 Initial Calibration Settings / Experiences post)
I raised the Z-Axis by 0.05mm and it worked OK for the first print, but now I’m getting the first few layers OK but then it seems as if parts are being knocked or pulled off so then I get areas that have printed fine and loads of messy string, and sometimes a printed piece being dragged around with the nozzle. Am I being too ambitious with what I want to print? I’m trying to print the Lazy Cat from Cults3D (it’s an articulated cat). I was thinking that it shouldn’t really matter what I’m trying to print if it’s set up properly!
I took some photos of my A350 as you suggested so you can double-check my assembly: Snapmaker Folder
The one thing that I think is absolutely necessary on SM is calibrating extrusion.
Most people agree retraction setting is too high in Luban by default. Everyone and (every filament) is different but 3mm and 40mm/s is a good place to start.
From there the other things can dial in.
You should print a bench or calibration cube to start.
Then analyze that and go from there. If those are good, then move on from there.
If not.
Temp towers can help with getting the nozzle temp right. That may be why your prints are failing. Try raising nozzle temp 5º. Every different type, brand and color of filament (sometimes every batch) prints differently.
Z hop can help keep nozzle from colliding with print.
As suggested by SJD544, start with some calibration cubes to get a feel of how your material extrudes
I’m sure the lazy cat can be printed, although i didnt see the model (the term was probably too broad)
Bumping the part can mean you might be extruding a bit heavy and maybe you can consider cutting back your flow rate, but i dont think luban can even do that, so over time youll transisiton to different software.
Z-hop is probably your best friend at this point in the game though
Looking at your pictures, looks like you might be using some silk pla - that stuff can be a bit odd at times to deal with in how it extrudes. it tends to come out of the nozzle much thicker than its supposed to.
Doesn’t mean its not usable, just means it can be a bit difficult to manage, especially with luban lol.
Last time i used some, i loaded up some regular stuff after, and as the extruder purged out the silk and transitioned to the normal, the line width difference was literally nearly double.
Hi
Thanks for your help and advice. I printed a calibration cube (one of the xyz ones from Thingiverse - I chose the one with the most ‘Likes’ guessing that might be the best one!) It’s perfect! I think it’s the best thing I’ve printed so far! the letters are clear with clean edges, it measures 20mm in all 3 directions (in a couple of places on each size) and even the bottom has some definition instead of looking a bit squashed!
Based on this, I’m confident that it’s not the machine at fault with any of the other problems I’ve had! and even the failed print of the cat is loved by my granddaughters and is now called Stumpy
I’ve raised the Z-Axis 0.05mm more and this now seems to be working well (although I’ve only printed a couple of small things, but so far it’s working consistently). I think I probably need to rein in my expectations and take things more slowly, getting to know the machine and the filaments (My family love me to get a new hobby as they know what gifts to buy - I now have 14 reels of filament in different colours! so plenty to work with)
@MooseJuice You mentioned transitioning to different software - any suggestions on that? I also want to learn 3d Modelling but there are so many applications out there I don’t know where to begin, although something free would be ideal as I don’t want to pay loads and then find I like something else!) Here I am, getting ahead of myself again!
Thanks
S
ps the filament in the photos isn’t silk, it’s Rainbow PLA (at least it doesn’t say silk on the labels and it’s not particularly shiny)
You’re going to want to look into using Cura next - which luban is based on, but has a lot more settings and such.
Regarding modeling, thats a different story - hard to get into. microsoft has a 3d modeling program (3D Builder) which is pretty simplistic (i didnt know about til recently) which is probably a good place to start, but fusion360 is where to go for free dimensionally accurate type things.
i am glad you are making progress. yes, you need to think of it as a hobby. it takes a long time to master.
I am not master by any means but i am leaps and bounds beyond where i was. There is just so much to learn!
you should invest in a pair of cheap digital calipers, a dry box, possibly a food dehydrator, and ive found having a small file set and small xacto set a boon as well
You will have so much fun playing if you come across some specific scenarios you need help with please reach out to us.
A little late to the party but I didn’t see it mentioned below. You probably have resolved all your issues but on the video you posted, I saw that there was a remant of extruded filament on the end of your nozzle. On a cold nozzle, I found from experience that this can cause the Z-axis manual calibration to fail because the card thinks there is more “nozzle” than there really is because hard filament will cause the card to flex before the actual nozzle tip does.
