3D printing calibration Z axis too height

Read a few posts and solutions to different situations when calibrating for 3D prints, but can’t find one that might be helpful to me.
The first two months of my A350 were fantastic, after that when calibrating the Z height is too high, it doesn’t stick or too low, squishes the filament down, the print works but at times I see a little pattern on a printed cylinder just to say. I have to adjust the proper height manually almost each time I print, plus or minus.
Read somewhere here that there is a method to correct this by issuing commands to the machine but can’t find it, help is appreciated.

Is ths what you’re looking for? Summary: Extruder calibration a must

Not necessarily, but thank you so much for the link, will be my next item on the to do list. I was referring to the height of the extruder to the table, if I calibrate, I get different numbers, meaning the same calibration method, sometimes is good and sometimes is too high and filament won’t stick or squeezes the filament flat on the table.
Thanks again.

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@Marcos I personally think the Snapmaker sheet is a bit too slick to really grab filament, it slides around a lot on mine but once it sticks it sticks good.

Are you using raft?
The thicker the first layer of raft, the better it will adhere to the sheet.
When I first started using SM2, I was trying to print without rafts.
However, the occurrence of elephant feet and the filament sticking to the printed sheet led me to the conclusion that it would be better to make rafts.
It has been a year since I started using SM2, but I have only used one side of the printing sheet. Since I am using it for manufacturing and sales, the printing volume is quite high. I use PLA and ABS filament.

Summary: Extruder calibration a must

I calibrated it once, but the filament supply was excessive, so I put it back. I am using it at the default values.

@ViperZ rafts in my experience are a pain in the butt to remove and leave an ugly finish on the bottom of the print, that’s why I only use it when absolutely needed.

Agreed - I treat rafts as a last resort, when all else fails. Or when I specifically need a frangible base to separate the part off it, like with printed in place ball bearings that I don’t want a skirt on.

The brim/skirt should be enough to hold it down.

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If you make the right adjustments, you’ll get better peelability.
As you can see in the picture, the raft is very clean after removing the parts. You don’t need any tools for peeling off.

You need to set the distance between Raft and the printed material for each print nozzle size and LayerHeight.
The following are the settings I use.
NozzleSize=0.4mm
LayerHeight=0.24mm
Raft Z Distance=0.23mm
Print Speed above Raft=12mm/s

I have been printing with ABS and was having some problems with the first layer so I took the time and did a manual level 25 point and it’s been fine since then. I also use a glue stick as an interface layer, I don’t bother cleaning it off unless it gives trouble.

Yeah, I thought the extruder was too high for a moment, then the next print filament goes flat, did that on purpose without calibration, the height changes at times for no reason.
Someone mentioned extruder calibration, never thought it can have a negative impact, maybe too much filament at times is the reason. In the mean time I’ll adjust manually each file if I see a problem. Will calibrate extruder next to see what happen.
Thank you guys for all comments.

Have you updated your firmware?
There was a known bug that caused the sensor to be measuring at a different offset than it was supposed to. It was fixed in the last couple versions.

-S

Yes, updated firmware, next will do the extruder calibration to see if that help. Later found out that the filament sensor got messed up, they send a new one and I’ll be replacing it, not sure if this has to do with it.