3D filament melts before it gets to the nozzle

Hey Snap community,

I’ve been using the 3D printer so far with no problems however the last few days every time I start a print very little/no filament comes out.

I have removed the filament, cleaned out the turning cog which seems to gather parts of the filament - don’t think this is meant to happen. As you can see the filament starts getting rubbed away and leaves residue on the turning part, and so doesn’t direct the filament through.

My assumption is that the filament is already quite warm by the time it gets to the nozzle, but not sure how to remedy it, I have attempted to reduce the nozzle temp to 195 (from 200) no luck.

When I load the filament it’s fine, and loads as expected. Between loading and beginning a print there’s an issue!

Below is a picture of the filament once removed. New user limit of one image per post but can also show the turning part which has residue on it.

Would love some ideas on how to avoid this - thanks.

your filament is stripping out, That doesnt look very good - is the nozzle itself clogged up some?

the teeth marks are normal but its chewing away pretty thin there…

Have you tried to trade the hotend for the spare to see? If you see an improvement there we can get into a cold pull method to keep your nozzle cleaned out

i also like to poke needles through it now and then and so forth.

are you using luban? do you have retraction settings you can show us?

what is this filament you are using exactly? brand and type

that filament may just be lousy.

also, if you have some resistance on the feed it might be causing that needs to be a nice easy roll - where is the spool mounted at?

If you’re having problems with it not flowing you’re doing the opposite of what would be recommended. Bump up the temp 5º not down.

Also wondering if you’re printing too close to the bed. So it’s loading and extruding fine but then when you’re printing it’s blocking the nozzle.

Last possibility is that the filament has gotten moisture. If you’ve been having worse results over time with the same filament that would tend to explain it.

-S

Thanks for the response MooseJuice!

I’ll have a look at the nozzle and make sure it’s all clear.

Retraction settings below:
image

I actually tried two different types of filament.

The first was the black reel that came with the Snapmaker. When that started acting up I tried another https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B088NKLLPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The spool is mounted outside the enclosure and fed through the hole, seemed to work fine previously!

Appreciate the response, I’ll try the spare if the other steps outlined don’t do the trick!

Thanks for the response S, I’ll try bumping the heat up and see how that goes.

As for Z position, I’m following the outline when calibrating, where I can pull the calib card/paper towards me and not able to push it further in with ease - do you recommend higher than this?

I thought the same with the filament when I first had the problem - resulting in me buying some new stuff and that still has the same problem unfortunately.

Thanks again,

Throw that stuff that came with the machine it, it probably clogged your nozzle thats why you are having a problem lol

I dont know that ankun brand, but typically its not a great idea to buy the random chinese stuff - although some brands are ok. this brand might be fine, i dont really know. anything is better than the stuff that came with the machine, its tainted or something.

its incredible how many people have serious problems from using it. how they are still shipping it is beyond me. the stuff from their store is okay, they changed suppliers.

amazon basics is a good starter brand, hatchbox too. priline is an example of chinese stuff that is not bad, it holds a special place in my heart.

Looking at your link, i think you got Petg, or ABS. these filaments are not the same and require more heat, and are more challenging. petg is easier than ABS but not as easy as PLA. does your spool have a temperature range listed on it?

consider trying another spool of PLA until you are getting used to printing.

during calibration most of us like to bump it up an extra .05-.1 after the card has a bit of tension on it but you can still slide it

Thanks for all your help MooseJuice.

I traded the filament out for some better stuff and will move forward by sticking to Hatchbox, Priline or Prusa (which I’ve heard is also good).

Also changing the hot end for the spare seemed to do the trick, I didn’t know about using ‘cold pull’ to clean out the nozzle until it was mentioned above, so will also do that or change the nozzle to keep this hot end as a spare.

Currently printing happily. Saying good riddance to the SM filament!

Thanks again

haha yeah… its amazing how many people get screwed up by that stuff…

priline is not a premium brand, it just happens to be the first stuff i had any good prints with.

hatchbox is decent, prusament and matterhackers are the higher ups that i am aware of. matterhackers prints like a dream. havent tried prusament.

actually i was trying to use a roll of snapmaker pla last night that came from the store separately.

its not nearly as bad, but still clogs my microswiss nozzle up something fierce. bout to toss it.

the blue petg snapmaker i had ordered was pretty decent i thought. but theres just too many questions to risk it.

I also found the blue and the red (was it pteg?) sm filament not as bad havet tried the withe one.

As one problem’s solved, another rears its ugly head.

Looks like my levelling is causing some serious issues with the base layer. Previously was using a skirt layer but as it was having issues adhering to the base I tried a raft and this is what I ended up with. Clearly something wrong before taking it too far.

I have seen some posts about levels with a more dense grid (7x7 as opposed to 3x3) - is that recommended in cases like this?

PS - no judgement on the state of the print bed - it’s been through a lot!