Just tried to mill something, set the work origin and told the bed to take a tour of the work area. Apparently the board I was working with had about a mil of warp on one side and my flat end mill bit decided snap off to save the wood from scratching. I’m hoping these are commonly available pieces and not something I’m going to have to order special from Snapmaker because I really need to get this project done in the next week or so.
Amazon, ebay for cheaper bits.
I’ve been really happy with http://www.eoasaw.com/index.html has good prices and free shipping. Whiteside makes some great bits for reasonable prices. CMT is good too.
Amana people think are the best, but man they’re pricey.
-S
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You should also be able to get them locally, at a hardware store or wood working shop, just make sure that what ever you get has the same, or smaller shaft diameter.
As an aside, and I don’t mean to pile on to the OP (“the bit snapped to save the wood getting scratched”…classic), but wanted to discuss Run Boundary a little bit.
After setting the work origin, I always move my bit up like 50-70mm - enough that it will be nowhere near even the screws, then Run Boundary.
If it looks good, move down so the bit is horizontally in line with the screws, Run Boundary.
If looks good, move down so housing is inline with screws, Run Boundary…etc. Until I’m running about 2-3mm above the work surface. That’s my last layer - if that looks good, I feel OK starting job.
I’m kinda terrified of the whole bumping into stuff, so yeah, I play it pretty cautiously. This doesn’t take a lot of time, tho…
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@sdj544 - what do we need to look for when buying bits?
ES11 is the collet size, right? I can’t seem to find it on the eoasaw site. Is it 1/2" shanks?
No, I really should have known better. I had a similar issue in laser mode once and I know how fragile this bits are after accidentally auguring one into a piece of wood (mistakenly believing that the origin settings wouldn’t change between runs if the machine wasn’t turned off).
Shank diameter is 3.175mm or 1/8", that made the shopping at local stores a bit more complicated. No one who was open in my area today had shanks quite that small.
@gamemaker, to the best of my knowledge, the collet size is ER11. That’s essentially the “outside” size to fit the “chuck” that’s attached to the SM2 spindle.
You can buy ER11 collets suitable for bits ranging in size from 1mm to 7mm in 0.5mm increments. A collet has a range of 0.5mm. That is, the 7mm collet can fit a bit from 6.5mm to 7mm. I’m unclear if there are two “types” of ER11 collets. It seems that some specifications show them as imperial and some show them as metric. The specifications are also often mixed, showing a 1mm collet with an imperial range. I live in Australia so theoretically we should be using metric, but there’s too much imperial around here to ignore it 
The SM2 comes with an 1/8" ER11 collet. That should have a bit range of 2.675 mm to 3.175 mm. I don’t have the exact specifications, all I know is that it’s a 1/8" ER11 collet, range was derived from specifications shown by various collet manufacturers.
My understanding is that you should aim for using a bit at the upper range of the collet size for higher concentricity and clamping power.
When you use it, you click the collet into the chuck nut, then insert the tool into the collet, pushing it entirely to the end of the collet, then insert and tighten onto the chuck.
Disclaimer: I am still waiting for my SM2 to ship. I’ve been getting bits and pieces in preparation based on information supplied by SM and this forum.
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The most common/easiest to find bit shank sizes are 1/8" (3.175mm) & 1/4" (6.35mm).
I bought a set of various sized ER11 collets and only used the 1/8" one that came with the SM, and a 1/4" one. 1/4" is the largest size the SM can take.
I haven’t had any luck finding bits at my Lowe’s or Home Depot. They have mostly router bits and no specifically CNC bits. Rockler has some listed but they’re a little far away.
Unless you happen to have a good woodworking store or maker shop near you, mail order is going to be your best bet.
Like Gamemaker I’m overly cautious running boundaries. I will also on occasion (depending on where I created my gcode, and how much I can’t afford to mess up a workpiece) set my z position way above the workpiece and start it running just to make sure speeds are correct. I’ve had occasional problems where I accidentally set feed rate wrong and have had it start to try to cut at full travel speed.
-S
I haven’t been able to try as I don’t have my snapmaker yet. But I think multitools like a dremel also us the same size bits. Some sites list them as 3.2mm instead of 3.175. Yet I think they will fit fine.
So a shop selling dremel will probably also have suitable bits. (but they might think of them as “dremel bits” in stead of “cnc bits”.
Also most places have stores like Grainger, witch is a professional work store that will still sell to individuals. They have cnc bits.
I went to Rockler and they didn’t have anything in stock that would work, the guy there recommended a couple places in the area that specialize in CNC but of course they’re closed on the weekend so I’ve ordered some bits online but on the way home today I stopped at Home Depot and picked up a Dremel bit to try. The shank is basically right size though the overall bit is probably about twice as long as the SM2 ones. I’ll give a whirl and see report back later
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None of the dremel bits at my Home Depot (or Lowes) had the right cutting profiles/configuration to work for CNC. They were meant to cut on the side profile and not on the bottom.
There are some grinding stones and cutters I already have that I would like to try using for engraving and etching though.
-S
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I have been very happy with the bits I have bought from https://www.precisebits.com/
I see quite a few on Amazon ( I have yet to try )
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I wound up going to amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNQH6KHJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085RG6WLD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I do woodworking as a hobby and have found that carbide cuts much better and holds it edge longer. Worth the extra cost.
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