As in an overall layer height? Would that take the build longer to make?
I just recently found all of the advanced settings, so I am a little overwhelmed with all the possible tweaks, and I’m sorry if I sound … ridiculously clueless, but i am, and thanks for your patience, and for your help 
A thicker layer requires the machine to make fewer passes around the model, and therefore quicker.
You can experiment with changing the settings and see the result on the predict time in Luban
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Would just be fine to not call out to trash bin the machine if you simply don’t know how 3d printing does work or is supposed to be.
For more help it would be of interest what settings your gcode created. I asked for your print speed and layer height several times…
Don’t worry, it is a steep learning curve and it will get better.
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Layer height is inversely proportional to print time. The thicker the layer, the fewer layers it has to travel over to eventually build the same overall Z height part. Resolution of course suffers a little (but we’re still talking tenths of millimeters here!). Thicker layers are also a little more forgiving because it’s extruding more at any given time - so if the precision of your gap to your first layer is a little off, it is less likely to be ‘underextruded’ and underbound to the print before it – which is part of what causes a lot of blebs and blips, because what’s getting extruded didn’t really ‘stick’ to what is there, it just stretched and followed the head.
If you’re a bit newer to actually printing, try going to a 0.2 or even 0.24 print layer height. You can increase the detailed printing time speeds after the first layer too. I use a first layer 0.2, subsequent 0.24. My “normal” print speed is 60mm/s and travel speed 80mm/s. But if you dive into the more ‘advanced’ speed view I have trimmed my first layer speed a little. A slower first layer helps make sure you get reasonable bed adhesion (your tail problem).
And I’m not even on the newer faster rails or anything, and not too particular about service (I’ve never opened my rails to lube them up or anything, once). Granted I do have the A250 not the A350 and the larger bed has a little more ‘rocking’ with the Y axis slinging, so your mileage may vary.
Main settings:
Advanced Speed Settings:
I’m not very “organized” with many different saved print profiles – this is what I call “Fast Print” and I tend to open and vary the infill percentage, infill type, and whether or not to activate support on almost every print the first time. The cup lid I was printing that I showed pics of earlier is a saved print I re-use frequently for my wife’s epoxy tumbler business, it’s just stored on the USB stick so she can heat up the machine and run one almost anytime she wants (as long as I didn’t leave it configured for laser).
Regarding infill “type” – If the ‘quilting’ you can see from infill at lower percentages sort of bothers you, then try the Gyroid infill. Seems to leave the least external visibility. It’s also pretty fun to watch…but I think it does kind of add time to the print compared to the tri-hex or whatnot.
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Thank you for the Information! I have been tweaking the settings as I go, and I find the screenshots very helpful! I’m going to implement them tomorrow and see how that goes. It’s very helpful to see what settings to look for, because there are so many, but i am starting to slowly understand what they all mean and how they affect the build. I am truly looking forward to trying this! Thank you so much!
Rebecca 
I apologize, i thought i replied to your request for the settings i was using. I’ll take a screen shot tomorrow when i try again to print.
I just went out to check my project before going to bed (it was a 13 hour build initially) and the filament had broken off at the printhead after getting stuck in the filament dryer at the 3 hour mark. Such luck. Anyway, I applied your settings recommendations, and now it is projected to be complete in 3 hours, 24 minutes! So far, so good! thanks again
Rebecca
So, I just stopped the print because it is moving the pieces around and it’s not adhering to the plate. I’ll try this again in the morning, this the third attempt on this project. I have the initial layer at 63°, and the other layers at 60° for the plate as that is the recommended temp for the filament. In your opinion could this be a factor, or does it again go back to the extrusion? I have also applied MagiGoo as an adhesive and it also recommends 60 °.
Rebecca
Yes, but your first posted print was not printed like this, correct?
0.2mm is pretty common and still looks nice.
I never use less than 0.12mm because of the rising print time and little few better print quality.
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Okay judging from your picture I would honestly expect you to still have adhesion problems. I would have problems with that print too. When there is only a lot of little individual contact points to the bed (I’m assuming that is some sort of octopus?) then yes it’s very easy to have them move. Looking at your skirt I would argue you still don’t have quite enough squish going on here, especially with a silk filament. But even lowering the Z offset a little might not save you on a print like this.
One option on a print like this is what they call the raft or a brim instead to help promote adhesion. Basically more surface area on the bottom of the print plate so you don’t have just those individual circles moving around. Obviously, lots of cleanup required afterwards and that can be rather annoying.
A second option that might help is z hop. The z-hop settings are buried up in the settings for the filament itself with retraction, rather than in all the print settings. (I know, why there I’m not sure.) But as you look at those suckers each one of them is slowly getting bigger kind of like a cone? So as they cool their edges might sort of lip up a bit like an inverted suction cup. Then the print nozzle hits the distorted edge and actually pulls it off the bed instead of gliding over it and then extruding on top. The Z hop on retraction setting will raise the head as it transits a non-printing movement and then lower it down over those to do the next larger diameter circle there. There are also settings to alter the order of interior walls before or after exterior . You really kind of have to think through every different movement that might happen on layers like this and make a decision of what’s best for that print. Honestly no guarantees on a print like that.
In your shoes I would really practice on prints that have a little more surface area touching the bed before trying something like this. I don’t know if you are printing from the touch screen or not, if you are I don’t know if you knew there’s a little triangle to the right that lets you swipe the screen towards your left so that you can see different settings you can change live during the print? One of them is z offset. The reason I do four to five skirt outlines is that I can eyeball as the print is starting whether I think I’m getting a flat enough first layer thus good layer adhesion. You swipe to the left, tap the Z offset button, be sure to switch to the 05 mm smallest interval, and then you can raise or lower the head depending. For example looking at your current skirt I still don’t really see that it is being squished into the plate some, so I would be tapping down once watching to see if I like the result. You should actually be able to tell when it takes effect because the print will kind of stutter briefly in a pause as the Z movement is inserted into the running g code.
It really kind of is a getting to know your machine experience the first few times. Also the longer you’ve used a given print plate it will start to get slightly marred …Heat and motion and scraping things off it and Etc… and actually kind of gain some friction. You saw from my picture earlier my print plates are pretty messy looking.
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No. I’m going to take some advice and do something with more … surface attached to the plate. The octopi may be for a later date when I have more experience and knowledge and the holiday isn’t two days away. I think using a simpler machine that didn’t have so many variables really messed up my curve here. I now understand that a machine that has the 3 in 1 capabilities does indeed have to have endless options, and it is completely blowing up all of my brain cells. I am so grateful to all of you that have and still are, mentoring me, although I’m not one to reach out for help in my normal life, I like to tackle things head on and learn as I go. It is safe to say, It Is Kicking My butt ALLLLL the way home. I will not give up though. I have literally been printing day and night for over a month, and not giving myself any grace for my many failed attempts. I will start. I bow to you all, in gratitude.
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Thank you so much! I am going to “stick” with (all pun intended 
) something more kindergarten like. I used a brim, but not close enough to the build. I’m also not sure how to get more ‘squish’. I don’t get a trail to the brim as I used to. Do you follow the recommendations for heat, and speed on the reel of filaments? Each one has different settings. Or, do you use what works for each type? Maybe I need to stop being fancy and go to plain filament and learn with that until I get the settings under my belt? I have been attempting to print with the silks, because that’s what the grandkids like. It’s a tough one.
Also, do you find that when you download an STL file from where-ever, it always requires a repair? This happens 99% of the time, not knowing if this is “normal”.
No, that’s Luban - it seems to find zillions of reasons why an STL needs repair.
That’s Z-Offset. When I start a print, I do a skirt or brim with three to five lines. And while it is laying down the skirt, I use the touchscreen to fine-tune the Z-Offset. The individual skirt/brim lines should connect and be squished down, but not so much that material evades to the sides. Here are some pages from the net which illustrate this well:
The last page has a very good photo:
Nah, not really. Speedwise for PLA I use 50-60 mm/s for first layer, 100-120 mm/s for the rest (I’m an impatient man who can live with some imperfections - doing mainly functional stuff - you may want to stay below 100 mm/s if you want it look nice…), and that usually works. Temperature is something to test out - either with a temperature tower, or by running a print and see if I’m happy. Values on the spool are for orientation IMHO
Say what you want about Luban, but reading what others post the default profiles that Luban provides seem to work for many people - did you try if you succeed with them?
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Btw - this part of your picture I guess made @rtrski say you need more squish:
I would agree and say: Z-Offset is too high, your nozzle needs to be a tad closer to the bed.
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I think I found my squish! Tell me if I’m wrong 
I re-calibrated the plate and I think it’s at a good level now, I was at -50 and it still wasn’t close enough.
Rebecca
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That was my problem, I was depending on the STL files I downloaded, and assumed, at first that the files would create the correct print profile with Luban default profiles, and I couldn’t get a good print to save my life. I have a friend that has a FlashForge, and she has never messed with a setting, has beautiful prints with zero issues that print lightning fast compared to my 26, 38, 54 hour prints that have to be coaxed to stay put and have lines and boogers everywhere. She was printing with regular PLA, and silk and they looked great. I come home and have a “fancy” machine, and I’m still struggling after all this time. My husband is encouraging me to offload this and buy another machine, but I know i can conquer this one and come out with enough knowledge to go to the next level (Thanks to you nice people on this forum of course)