Well, they are also making upgraded more quiet linear modules too.
I would be willing to pay for a new platform and modules, but I expect a reasonable discount for them.
Something tells me they wont release the linear modules until one year after the last batch of kickstarter / early orders goes by so they dont have 8000 units of people trying to get their modules replaced under a warranty argument.
Can these scripts be executed from the OctoPrint Terminal?
The new one will be better as even the first one they are now machining so its flatter. You would guess that the new platform would also be machined level as well.
Yeah I guess so but I’d expect the fact that the are now machining the surfaces being the bigger improvement compared to the layout change. My A350 still has the platform with “old” layout but has already the machined surface. So far I only used it for smaller prints but the numbers of autocalibration don’t look too bad (at least compared to my Anycubic i3 Mega… 
).
My new machined bed has one that needs a couple of layers of copper tape to raise it.
I’ve been reading these threads and inconclusively finding a definitive guide to solving the bed levelling problem, or have I missed something? I just received my SM-A350 and have been unsuccessful printing outside of the centre area of the platform, basically same print area of my SM-Original. not exactly why I bought the larger machine. The machine arrived on the 24th of Dec so I did not pay any attention to it for a couple of days. It set up easy and I have had some successful prints from it. more unsuccessful due to initial layer failures.
Has anybody got suggestions for a beginner using Luban that will offer a glimmer of hope? I have time to play with it I just fear following a lead down some bottomless rabbit hole.
Thanks for your help,
What a bummer… Then I shouldn’t have too high hopes for my platform either… 
My bed is now 0.8mm out.
How did you measure you bed, i.e. cold or hot, which grid (5x5 or more)?
With a cold bed and 5x5 grid I get a delta of ~0,27mm but I guess I should take a closer look at it once I start using it more frequently…
I measured it hot 60, and then used the octoprint plugin to visualize it.
I had my old bed shimmed better that the new one.
Sorry, missed this post. Didn’t show up in my email.
The SM A350 I received last week was shipped with Quick Install Guide V1.2. It contains the original build platform. It also contains the original laser (green) glasses and I’ve just checked, the original new laser platform, that is, 2 x 4 holes + 2 x 2 holes.
I started a post, which I’m updating as information comes to hand, describing version numbers and characteristics here:
I really appreciate all the work that went into this, but I’m finding the guide difficult to follow because the instructions seem to jump all over the place.
I notice that this thread started nearly a year ago. Does anyone know if Snapmaker is -ever- going to fix their autoleveling issues? Having a build plate as big as the a350 is completely useless if we can’t get a good first layer down because of leveling. I’ve been trying to get this machine properly calibrated for about a month now and I’m about ready to yeet this machine all the way back to China.
So, I just stumbled on something I haven’t seen mentioned before (not that it hasn’t, just that I haven’t seen it). If you turn off auto leveling in the settings… The next time you try to use the screen to calibrate the bed, it has you walk through and manually calibrate the z setting of each of the grid points. Definitely more tedious… I’ll let you know shortly if it works. Also… If you have a slicer connected to it at the time, you can tell it to heat the bed while it waits for the user input during calibration.
Update: here are the results. Quite a lot of improvement over literally all of my previous leveling attempts regardless of methods. There’s still a section of the front left that needs better calibration/bed adhesion. It wasn’t a problem with the skirt/outline, but it became a problem on the first layer infill. I’m trying to point to them with my two fingers in one of the photos.
Was doing well. though I’d make a minor adjustment trying to raise the nozzle at part of the grid by +0.05 using the macros in the sheet. damaged my print sheet even further. Luckily I can still flip it over, but I think I’m ducking out of this thread. It seems dead anyways. Good luck to you all. I’ll post my findings with the manual calibration in another thread should I have success.
Are you using Bed Visualiser plugin to get this graph ? Would you mind to share the GCode please ? I’ve never get the graph, always blank at the end.
Many thanks
Yes, M420 V is the command, tick use relitive, -2.2 for the scale
I did the exact same thing! So glad you fessed up in this post. I’d probably still be staring at it trying to figure out what was wrong!
Apologies if this has been answered before; I’ve tried the spreadsheet but once the cal procedure starts, the bed heater turns off. Is there a way to keep the bed heater on during the entire meshing process?
Can I ask how you measured the bed hot? Every time I run calibration, the bed heater turns off and the temperature starts to drop.
Having the bed energized messes with the inductive sensor which is why it’s off for calibration. There has been talk of modifying the firmware so it would turn off and on but that doesn’t exist yet.
If you heat up the bed to 5-10º above printing temp before you start calibration it should stay within close enough range during calibration.
-S
