Most people who are doing more than basic work with this machine end up discarding Luban in favour of other software. Lightburn is the most-recommended laser program. Many people prefer Fusion 360 for CNC, and I think some have also tried Carbide Create. Any program that can generate the Marlin flavour of gcode should work with the Snapmaker2, although some tweaking may be required.
Simplified process for getting Luban to generate gcode for something (with default settings) and send it to the Snapmaker via wireless:
Laser: Open Luban and select the third tab-button on the upper-left (the picture is meant to show a laser, but looks more like a dangling spider to me). Import an existing image file (.svg for cutting, .svg, .png, .jpg etc. for engraving) using the blue “Add” button near the upper-left, or draw something simple using the square, oval, and text buttons on the left side. When you are ready, click the “Process” button at the bottom of the right-hand column. Now do the steps given below under “Common process for all Luban Snapmaker panels”.
CNC: Open the program and select the fourth tab-button on the upper-left. Click past the warning box. Proceed as for the laser—import or draw, click the “Process” button, and do the Common process steps. Note that there are a lot of other things that need to be taken under consideration when using CNC, depending on the results you are hoping to achieve. Shapeoko CNC A to Z was recently recommended here as an information source, and although it’s specific to a different machine, it appears to cover the basics.
3D printing: Open the program and select the second vertical tab on the upper-left (with the wireframe box on it). Import an existing STL file using the blue “Add” button near the upper-left. Then follow the Common process steps below.
Common process for all Luban Snapmaker panels: Grab the scrollbar on the right and scroll all the way to the bottom. The bottom panel is labeled “Actions”. The top button on it is labeled “Generate G-Code”. Click it and wait for the process to finish. Then click the second button from the bottom: “Load G-Code to Workspace”.
Go back to the upper-left and select topmost vertical tab, with the XYZ-axis image. You should see a bad toolpath rendering of your already-sliced object (or possibly nothing at all if a bug interferes).
Make sure your Snapmaker is switched on and can reach the network, and that the correct head, bed, and stock (if any) are in place. On the “Connect” panel at the upper-left, click on “Wi-fi” and then click the refresh button (with the curved arrows). When it’s done probing, select your Snapmaker from the drop-down left of the refresh button and click “Connect”. Go over to the Snapmaker and authorize the connection using the touchscreen.
Back at your computer, click the “Send to Device via Wi-Fi” button near the top-right of the Luban window. Then go back to the Snapmaker and work your way through the necessary screens (there are two of them) to start the job.
I hope that helps. If something isn’t clear, please tell me, and I’ll go back over it with screen shots.
Common known problems with the laser and its calibration: the camera and sensors can fail to pick up the presence of a dark surface. This can be fixed by placing a sheet of paper on top of the dark object during calibration. Sometimes calibration will fail because the head will not move far enough away from the bed. Various remedies are given in other threads here. The laser glasses supplied with the unit are not certified by any recognized safety agency and are probably of the wrong type. The enclosure is likewise not certified and possibly doesn’t filter laser light enough to be safe. If you want to watch the laser at work, either buy glasses certified to properly filter 445nm laser light, or use a camera instead of looking at the beam directly.