Hotend OOZE following clog fix

Apologies, I’m in verbose mode.

Full disclosure, this problem was of my own doing. I had a clog that I was unable to clear. I replaced the nozzle but the clog extended up into the heat break as well. I disassembled the hotend and managed to clear the clog from the heat break and just went with a new nozzle. I’m printing again and ‘assumed’ all was well but, and I don’t recall what prompted me to look, I discovered that under the silicon sock I had a hot mess if you will. So I removed the hotend, separated the heat break and the heater block, as much as I could, to clean things up. I stripped the screw head that hold the heater and nothing, heating it to 260C and trying again and again failed. I inquired about adding a replacement heat block to my order but was told the there was no plan to offer those now or in the future. I let them know that I didn’t think that would be acceptable to the J1 community. That put me on a search for a replacement that I found on Amazon, but it’s aluminum, is that going to be a problem, I don’t know. Back to the original heater block, feeling I had nothing to lose, I applied penetrating oil, drill out the screw and was able to remove it with an E-Z out. No heat involved. Currently it is soaking in acetone to soften the remaining material before I reassemble.

I have a couple of thoughts on the reassembly that I could use some guidance on. They are the use of thermal compound between parts that might benefits from that, and what they are. Also the use of anti-seize compound on the threads of the retaining screws on the heater block. Has anyone replaced the round head, almost flat, hex screw with a screw with a larger head? The only potential problems I could see was that it shouldn’t extend below the nozzle, and I don’t think it will, and the silicon sock will need to be modified for the screw head to pass through, if it needs to.

All guidance is welcomed and appreciated. hth

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Hello hthavana,

tried google translator :wink:

I had a similar problem after about 15 days with my J1.

I could no longer load filament properly. There was always resistance.
This was also seen when the printer tried to load filament.
There was always a bang against the hot end when the extruder slipped.
Even if I tried to load it completely manually.

I then disassembled the whole hot end like you. When disassembling, I noticed that my nozzle was already loose so that the heating block, which should actually be held by the counter of the nozzle, also turned.
In the headbreaker, a rest of the filament came towards me.

After I had removed everything and cleaned the two surfaces (Nossel - Headbreaker) with the included steel brush and put everything back together.

but it still didn’t go itself error as before.
Unable to load filament.

So disassemble everything.
I may have noticed a component error, i.e. an error from Snapmaker.

I don’t know if there ever was a guide tube!

I then took a piece of Capricorn Premium PTFE 15mm long and installed it and lo and behold, everything works like it did on the first day.

Deutsch:

Hallo hthavana

habe Google Übersetzer bemüht :wink:

ich hatte ein ähnliches Problem nach ca. 15 Tagen mit meinem J1.

Ich konnte kein Filament mehr richtig laden. Es war immer ein Widerstand zu spüren.
Das hat man auch gesehen wenn der Drucker versucht hatte Filament zu laden.
Es gab immer ein schlagen gegen das Hot end wenn der Extruder Durchgerutscht ist.
Selbst wenn ich es Komplett manuell versucht hatte zu laden.

Ich habe dann das Ganze Hot End wie du zerlegt. Beim zerlegen ist mir aufgefallen das mein Nossel bereits lose war sodass, sich der Heizblock mit drehte der durch die Konterung der Nossel eigentlich gehalten werden soll.
Im Headbreaker ist mir dann ein Rest Filament entgegen gekommen.

Nachdem ich alles entfernt und die beiden Flächen (Nossel - Headbreaker) mit der beigelegten Stahlbürste gesäubert hatte und nochmals alles zusammen gesetzt hatte.

aber es ging immer noch nicht selber Fehler wie vorher.
Laden vom Filament nicht Möglich.

Also alles wieder zerlegen.
Dabei ist mir vielleicht ein Bauteil Fehler aufgefallen, Sprich ein Fehler von Snapmaker.

Ich weiss nicht ob es je ein Führungsrohr gab !

Habe mir dann ein Stück Capricorn Premium PTFE genommen 15mm lang und es eingebaut und siehe da es läuft alles wieder wie am ersten tag.




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