maybe i will order one of there specialty filaments to print the target
also have brass, nanocopper options
I got some carbon pteg today, but i dont use it at the time because my shiā¦i machine wont print nice at the time, an it shoud when i will use this filament, its about 80ā¬ for 750g, im nevous of the first try. I have also a hardend nozzle, will see.
I got some carbon fiber PLA from protopasta, but i dont think its metallic to be detected
maybe i am wrong
i have not tried to use it yet either
Aah, you mean the plate, that I have made from 0,2mm brasssheet, the printet one i only used to cutting it out with siccors. But printing it is not a bad Idea!
You could probably print it and just put a bit of copper tape on it.
I use that for getting my z-height exact with the cnc as well. (connecting a multimeter to it and the drill bit and check if resistance is 0). Easier to listen for the beep than to try to play with the calibration card or eyeballing it 
Thickness of the tape I have is 0.05mm (if I remember correctly) and if I put a small piece on my finger and hold it underneath the probe, the light goes on. And you could always use more than one layer if needed.
You could probably also use aluminum tape (the type used on insulation panels or sealing HVAC channels) which you can probably pick up at every hardware store pretty cheap.
True enough, im pretty sure i still have some copper tape at work.
just thinking about an excuse to buy these exotic metal filled plas hehe
1 Like
Stefix
I assembled my FiFix. I have not mounted it yet because i need to make the bottom plate tomorrow at work i am going to sand one out of a piece of stainless sheet metal
I am super surprised at how well the holes and features printed on my shitty machine, it was almost too easy to assemble! i expected a big mess to clean up because it was so small.
I have two minor comments for you
The first is the screws inside to hold the two halves of the spring holder were scraping on the tube, I had to file them down a little bit
Second, maybe we could modify the fifix to be able to screw onto the 3dp module by using the bottom two screws on the plate holding it on or even model it into a replacement side plate
just a thought
i have a plate i made for the other side for feeding wires maybe we can combine the two
Snapmaker 2 3DP Module Side Cover v3.zip (83.1 KB)
Of course that plate is backwards to mount it on the other side of the 3dp module it would need to be changed around
I had a very hard time making this plate i am not good with fusion 360 but there is probably an easy way to mirror it
I will have a look at it, thank for your Ideas. At the time i am working on a device for my printhead (my sensor is dead you know) and when it is ready I will post it here.
Looks like this has been accepted and merged. Excellent.
Yes they are actively going through all open PRās reviewing & merging. So maybe we can expect a new official firmware release in the near future.
Hey guys, are that good news or bad?
1 Like
A number of fixes they have integrated come from the community (from myself, from @brent113, @zauguin) so I would argue thatās a good thing (And the other commits are a lot more substantial than my little contribution of 1 line in code.)
1 Like
Good Man - you have already one line in it.
1 Like
And two lines of comments 
1 Like
My pull request changed a 9 to a B lmao
That has to be a record, right?
4 Likes
Nice, is it working well?
I think about a redesign as you suggestet, still waiting for my new printhead to work on it.
It did work well, but the target was a little crooked and i didnt want to chance it snagging so i removed it for now,
its easy enough to put back on when i want to calibrate next 
1 Like
Oh yeah! finally got my glass pieces in.
I loaded up one of my borosilicates with an adhesive magnet strip. It seems like it isnāt going to be enough to hold so I ordered some better stuff, but im printing some little clips for now.
It is holding enough to print these clips.
The fifix did its job well in this instance and i am printing
Printing feels different on the glass. I turned my nozzle heat down a tad because it was seeming like it was warmer than before for some reason and made some pretty ugly stringing on my clip for some reason. i just printed something with that same spool this morning
I cant wait to get used to this, and then i can start printing ABS by using ABS Slurry (which wouldnt work on the print sheet of course)
and YOU made this possible for me stefix with your awesome design!
now i will be testing regular glass and borosilicate glass to give my impressions over time about the worthiness of upgrading to the pyrex or not.
I will say right off the bat - first impression -
the bed temperture is more stable and consistant, and where it belongsā¦ 60c as set (140F)! in many places +/- a little bit (i was using f so it was +/- 2 degrees F)
Magnets are not the way to go due to getting the polarity right, you just need steel glued to the glass to hold it firm.