For all who want level on glass

You are great! <3
This is genius!

I love the ingenuity! Have you seen the semi-automatic allen-key bed leveling method?

I think I like your solution better, but it lifting a lever or some other simple process is a popular “semi automatic” bed leveling method!

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I might just have to try this. Although I don’t think my bed is as bad as others, large profile prints have a heck of a time with adhesion…

Hi, MooseJuice

I dont have any problems witch my printbed, since i print on simple glas from the local store.

Good addhesion and very plain, and the best is you can crap your prints from the bed
without dammaging it.

Keep alive and kicking!

Its the method of “Keeping it simple and stupid” works mostly nearly perfect. :+1:

I want to try to do this in the near future. I don’t really feel comfortable doing manual calibration yet (at least, I am not really interested in figuring it out) so before I do, I need to print your files :smiley:

Right now, my printer is super busy trying to get some presents for my family printed, but early January I am going to give this a try!

I would like to make a suggestion. I ran in to this this weekend (not yet using your mod but would like to implement it as well.

In stead of printing on glass I wanted to use the printbed on top of a wasteboard. I made a new one this weekend and it adds an additional 2cm on the platform. If you run the standard callibration, it just smashes the printhead into the bed because it goes down to the level it expects it to be and the sensor is positioned behind the bed.

I think it would be an added value if the pinhousing is moved a bit more forward on the printhead and the metal flange can swing around further. based on the images and stl files I can’t really judge if it can swing through far enough (haven’t printed it yet, so maybe that would work out of the box?)

I assume the glass plate you have in place isn’t too thick for that to be a problem?

(I’ll also make an issue on github to suggest to start the move downwards above the bed as that solves this problem too, byt a little bit of redundancy never hurts)

Picture where you can see the probe behind the platform when it goes down when it starts calibration.

Are you trying to use the wasteboard to mount the heated bed to because the aluminum webbed housing is not level to your satisfaction?

Exactly.
Still experimenting with it a bit. (and with this mode using glass is probably easier, but I was trying already. I’ll make a full post about it when I get closer.)

Short version:
I have milled a wasteboard completely flat. Or at least in parallel with the X-axis. On top of that I’ve put a silicon solder mat (can handle up to 500 degrees Celsius) as a form of insulation and to protect the wood from the heat and cause the wood to warp. And on top of that the heated platform and then the print sheet.

The heated bed in itself and/or the print plate also warp a bit because of the heat it seems and as the silicone pad can be squished a bit I can actually use it to adjust the level a bit and get it pretty flat. (got to a .2mm deviation so far when heated). and then I noticed that if I flipped the sheet my values/deviations were different and flipped as well :slight_smile: But other than that, it does work ok and the bed seems to get hotter a bit quicker.
Using an IR-thermometer, the bottom doesn’t get hotter than 35-37 degrees when the bed is at 70 degrees.

I’ll make sure I’ll post about it in the near future in a dedicated thread. Let’s keep the focus on the fifix for this one :slight_smile:

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Of course, didnt mean to detract from the awesome solution that was made here

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absolute ack!! that will solve many problems!

I think it might be as simple as to change line 88 in the following file: https://github.com/Snapmaker/Snapmaker2-Controller/blob/0c4eb5c0004256a8f933aa9c397c66282ed14954/snapmaker/src/service/bed_level.cpp

    // move quicky firstly to decrease the time
    do_blocking_move_to_z(z_position_before_calibration, speed_in_calibration[Z_AXIS]);
    planner.synchronize();

and also add a move on the x & y axis.
But this is just by broswing the github repo during lunch. I’ve learned better than to trust comments in code :wink:

I’ll see if I can try making that change in the next days. (but have a long print running right now)

The same thing happened to my sensor last night. It apparently caught on a piece of the print that had lifted and snapped off. I’m going to see if snapmaker will send me a new one under warranty. I hope I don’t have to buy a new print head. I don’t have time to re-engineer this thing. I like your solution though.

I created a pull request for it, Don’t think a lot could go wrong with that change and at least I´ feel a bit more safe now when calibrating that I don forget to trigger the sensor by hand :slight_smile:

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I believe they will provide you a replacement, they are pretty good about the parts, outside of delays in conversation and shipping.

I finally printed my fifix.

I thought something must have been wrong its so tiny!

Now I must figure out how to assemble and hope that it came out in good enough shape to be able to use.

My printer is acting super shitty the past day or so :expressionless:

I am looking at the device closely now, I need some fasteners and such

I am really impressed with how clever this little guy is!

I think that I will need to change the lever to load and unload the piston to something metal, the plastic is not going to cut it (at least as it comes out on my wonky ass machine…)

Also I need to figure out how I am going to attach the leaf to the bottom of the rod, and what I am going to put on it for detection.

Maybe a better solution here could be a threaded hole on the bottom (which may not be really feasible with the printer itself) so that you can put a counter sunk flat head screw to fasten the leaf to the rod, and then change the leaf itself to have some standard everyday item that could rest there, such as a nut (like a boss with a nut engravement) so you can rest the nut in there for the sensor to pick up.

Nut probably isnt the best idea, but something along those lines.

Regardless I am going to just fiddle to make it work, i am super impressed with it, german engineering at its finest!

You should create one of these not on the 3d printer, machine it out with metal (the spring can be something else instead) and try to sell this device. Its such an awesome little solution!

You know what would probably work well for the tube is some nylon bar stock reamed out then machined with the rod profile. a rotary module would make that easier to machine…

You can sell this part on the forums i am sure people would buy it!

The 3d printed solution is very nice, but made with some superior materials it could really be a force to be reconed with.

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I got a defective oven a few weeks ago and saved the glass heat shield for creating a glass print bed out of it. My plan is to let it be cut by a glass professional and aferwards glue it on a spare magnet bed (i wasted one with some petg prints).

So i’ll try this thing after the lockdown in germany is over.

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Nice!

I ordered two pieces of borosilicate and two pieces of regular glass, both 1/8" thick, from a local glass company

They should be calling me any day now to pick up!

@MooseJuice Have thought of made it from aluminum but i have not the posibiltys to make this precisly enough.
But thaks for the flowers and the sugestions about the screw, i did it this way on mine! The plate is solderd on a little brass srew so its better than glue An the little lever i changed against a normal screw…

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