i downloaded fifixv3.zip file but it’s ask for a pwd
Sorry to resurrect a zombie thread, although this one might be more of a saint.
Does anyone have the assembly text? I can’t find it on the thingiverse page saved on the internetarchive. I’m confident that I’ve got it all right, but the pivot is tight, even after lubrication, so can’t hurt to double check.
Thanks in advance.
Assembly instructions for the FiFix?
I don’t remember there being much in the way of instructions for assembly. It was pretty straight forward.
I had to kind of do some different fasteners a screw instead of the lever and i used some glue for the paddle.
this person had some reasonable notes on it
I had to break mine in quite a bit, added a little grease and sanded it a bit.
It’s fascinating to hear about your early experiences with computers and building them! Happy belated birthday, by the way. As for the glass bed and the Snapmaker setup, the method you described might not be very efficient for heat transfer due to the sticker layer in between. Plus, the use of clips would still be necessary. Exploring alternative methods that prioritize heat transfer and stability could lead to better results. Happy tinkering and building!
I bought a 3mm glass bed and stuck it to the flexible magnetic sheet. It worked great, but I had to do manual leveling.
Now I want to make the auto-leveling work on my glass bed. I bought a capacitive proximity sensor on net. I chose this one because it can work in the temperatures up to 85°C. But then I found this one has 4 wires instead of 3 of the stock one of Snapmaker 2.0.
According to the documents, it seems I have to connect the white wire and brown wire together. (brown is connected to +supply).But because I am not very skilled in electronics and am afraid of damaging this item (it’s not cheap, costing about $15), I am asking if someone could teach me how to properly connect the circuit to replace the original proximity sensor.
Thanks!
Yes, it’s a fantastic design and also a possible solution I am interested in. I am just trying to find another solution in which I don’t need to do any manual action before calibration.
Regarding this method of replacing the sensor, I tried connecting this 4-wire proximity sensor to the motherboard (black wire to black wire, blue wire to blue wire, and combining the white and brown wires to connect to the brown wire). Although it senses normally (the light on the sensor changes when I bring my hand close), during the automatic calibration, the light being on does not stop the tool head from moving downwards. I had to forcibly shut down the power to prevent damage to the base plate.
After repeatedly reviewing the specification sheets of both sensors, I still don’t understand where the problem lies. I would be very grateful if someone skilled in electrical work could provide an answer.
You have a fancy sensor. With teachable functions. You might need to switch it to NO mode. Check teching section in the spec sheet.
You should only need two wires.
I think your chosen sensor is not accurate enough.
Snapmaker sensor has a repeatable accuracy of 0.04mm (at up to 500Hz).
This means up to 500 measurements in 1sec.
The chosen sensor has a repeatable accuracy of 5%, this means 5% of 8mm Sn = 0.4mm.
It measures with 15Hz and has a hysteresis of 3-20%, this is far away from the stock sensor.
I suggest not to buy this product because I would fear a bed leveling marathon with no end because of inaccurate sensor measuring.