Awesome Work. Thank you for that
What kind of heartbreak I can buy.
I saw some mk8 copperhead heartbreak on 3d Jake but im not sure that is the right one. I search on the spare parts in the shop.
On the upper part I have to build the distance thing from Alurohr and don’t use a Capricorn for that piece?
I will try that upgrades too and order some gears for the extruders too.
Kindly Regards and thanks for that awesome work you guys done here in this case
The correct heatbreak is this one, for example: Bondtech MK8 Heat Break für Copperhead Hotends | IGO3D
Regarding the distance roll: That one has to survive an axial force of about 1kN (i.e. 100kg) on just 2…5 mm². This means a contact pressure of about 500N/mm² if you are unlucky. Sorry for forgetting the translation of the “Alurohr” word by the way, the word that should be there is “brass pipe”. I have sent an updated presentation to i3sven and asked him to replace that one.
I do not know any printable plastic that survives this and does not creep.
Thus: yes, it is highly recommended to use metal, and I also suggest using brass. Brass is much easier to work than aluminium since it does not clog your drilling tool / file / sand paper, it is much more robust against the high contact pressure - and it will not damage the inside of your heat sink. “Aluminium on Aluminium” is never a good idea if the surfaces shall slide over each other at some point in their life.
Das korrekte Heatbreak ist zum Beispiel: Bondtech MK8 Heat Break für Copperhead Hotends | IGO3D
Zur Distanzrolle: Die muß eine Axialkraft von ca. 1kN (d.h. 100kg) auf nur 2…5 mm² aushalten. Das bedeutet eine Flächenpressung von etwa 500N/mm², wenn man Pech hat. Sorry nebenbei für die vergessene Übersetzung und Korrektur des Worts “Alurohr” - dort sollte “brass pipe” stehen. Ich habe i3sven eine aktualisierte Fassung geschickt, mit der Bitte, diese hier hochzuladen.
Also ich kenne keinen bedruckbaren Kunststoff, der das aushält und nicht kriecht.
Im Ergebnis rate ich DRINGEND dazu, Metall für die Distanzrolle zu nehmen, und ich mepfehle auch Messing. Warum? Messing ist erheblich einfacher zu bearbeiten als Aluminium, da es das Bohrwerkzeug / die Feile / das Schleifpapier nicht verstopft, es heält eine erheblich höhere Flächenpressung als Alu aus - und es beschädigt nicht das Innere des Kühlkörpers. “Alu auf Alu” ist nie eine gute Idee, wenn die Oberflächen irgendwann in ihrem Leben mal übereinander gleiten sollen.
Ach so - falls jemand das obige PDF auf Deutsch lesen möchte: Snapmaker J1 - Hotend-Fix - Snapmaker - 3D-Druck Forum
Thanks for the help, may be i try then Creality Spider Nozzles or V6 Nozzles. They are longer and i can use the 4020 Fanducts and their covers.
Hope that works
The spider nozzle works, as noted in the PDF, it just reduces the choice of nozzle sizes you have. It might help though to get an M6 nut made out of copper, sand that down to about 4mm height and lock it against the heat block after tightening the nozzle to increase heat flow into the lower portion of the nozzle.
Thanks for all the work you’ve invested in finding the reason for the clogging issue. To me this looks like a fundamental design error in the J1 and I’m interested how Snapmaker will deal with this. In best case they develop a new hot end and offer it as a replacement for everyone. Second best would be to develop a new hotend for future sales but let deal current owners with a fix on their own. And worst case would be to ignore the issue and sell the J1 with the old hotend until eol.
I currently have additional hotends on backorder. Would you recommend to cancel my order until it becomes clear what route Snapmaker will go?
Btw. does your fix help in any way with the other widespread issue, the beating sound and resulting bad surface quality on vertical walls?
Regarding your hotend order, I am afraid you need to come to that conclusion yourself We do not know what Snapmaker will do with our findings. If I were them I sure would do something since I would want the J1 to be a success, but it is up to them to decide if and what they will do when. For now, I guess the Snapmaker development will carefully read our data and try to confirm our test results.
I decided for myself that I want to have full use of the printer as soon as possible, therefore I invested a part of what I saved from being an early buyer into a full set of parts for all my hotends.
Regarding the beating sound, I am unsure what you mean: if you mean the “clack-clack” sound coming from the extruder: this will be solved by the improvement.
Apart from that, my J1 never produced any beating sounds - I guess this is since I lubricated its linear slides as the very first task upon its arrival and then let it run slowly until I was sure the grease was evenly distributed in the sliders. Therefore I am afraid I cannot help you with that…
I referred to the other thread " Help, terrible beating noise".
Following the journey of @i3sven it is not triggered by lacking lubrication nor bad linear rails as he still has this issue after replacing all linear rails. Last suspect was stepper motors running too hot but final confirmation still waiting for. So the reason is currently unknown.
Obviously this beating noise cannot be fixed by modifying the hotend but it could be the bad quality of vertical walls was in fact a secondary effect of the hotend issues and not primarily caused by the beating noise issue. But as you don’t see this issue on your J1 only @i3sven can answer this question.
Now that I’ve recalculated and tried, it’s possible to print spacer sleeves yourself.
With Polymaker Nylon CoPA 6/6-6, it’s possible, you just have to know your printer well and adjust the filament flow accordingly.
You also have to keep in mind not to overdo the counter!
Since the filament is very expensive, you should get some sample material so you can print some.
e.g. B. Filament Sample / Produktprobe 50 g - Filamentworld - Jetzt Kaufen
Then there’s the issue of noise.
I’m not entirely sure yet, but I think it’s coming from the motors, because after putting heatsinks on the motors I haven’t been able to find anything else so far.
This then indicates bad tolerances in the engine.
When I find new engines, I’ll take mine apart, I’m sure you should be able to find something there.
nachdem ich jetzt mal nachgerechnet und versucht habe, ist es doch möglich Abstandshülsen selbst zu Drucken.
Mit Polymaker Nylon CoPA 6/6-6, ist es möglich, Ihr müsst nur euren Drucker gut kennen und dementsprechend den Filament-Fluss anpassen.
Dazu muss man auch im Hinterkopf behalten, das Kontern nicht zu übertreiben!
Da das Filament sehr teuer ist, solltet ihr euch Probematerial besorgen, damit könnt Ihr einige Drucken.
z. B. Filament Sample / Produktprobe 50 g - Filamentworld - Jetzt Kaufen
Dann das Thema Geräusche.
Ich bin noch nicht ganz sicher, aber ich denke, es kommt doch von den Motoren, denn nachdem ich Kühlkörper auf die Motoren gesetzt habe, konnte ich bis jetzt nichts weiter feststellen.
Das deutet dann auf schlechte Toleranzen im Motor hin.
Wenn ich neue Motoren finde, dann werde ich meine mal auseinander nehmen, da müsste man sicher etwas feststellen können.
Sleeve for the modification
Huelse für J1 umbauv2.step (7.0 KB)
The copper head is a bi metal, thought i try make me one. Damn it took me 3h to make this i will make one more then test it
My apologies, and I don’t want to take away the good work that has been done.
However, I have to take issue with comments made to others that they should go and buy something else if they don’t want to do DIY Printer fix. When I buy something I expect it to work to spec. Would you buy a car that only worked half the time! This is a sure way to go out of business. I should not have to spend days fixing a design problem that is clearly the manufacturer’s problem. I did not buy beta hardware! This is not a budget price printer - A budget is printer $300-400. comparing this to other IDEX printer is not relevant. The way J1 has been priced is to compete in the market and they clearly state IDEX printer for USD 1200. Maybe they should add buyer beware as is! does not always work…
I wonder if you got machine for free or do you work for Snapmaker?
I am not trying to bash Snapmaker here - I am just making a point. In fact I do like the J1 and if it worked with out issues I would have bought second printer for my other office. I cant and wont recommend this printer to anyone.
I hope Snapmaker is listening and fixes the problems - these are design issues that they can easily fix and triple their sales.
I understand what you mean, and I can follow it, I think only the relative perspective is a bit different. IMO 3D printers are where cars were in the 1910s - they do look better than they did initially and are certainly much more capable than their predecessors some 10 or 20 years ago, but they do still require intensive care and knowledge. That is the reason why I have some understanding for Snapmaker here, and I expect others to be capable and willing to replace parts on their printer.
But rest assured, neither of us three works for them. AFAIK Snapmaker has no office in Germany and none in the European Union by the way. I knew this and the significant negative impact it has on my right to return the bought object before I bought the printer, so I cannot blame anyone here. And I also knew that this printer tried to achieve things that were previously achieved only on much more expensive printers, so I also knew that there was a risk due to buying a “first step on uncharted terrain” item. Therefore I cannot blame anyone for this as well. And this second point ist what sone others here seem to ignore, and that angers me a bit, to be honest.
This brings me to why we did this: Basically we only share the same 3D printing enthusiasm and really like this printer despite the flaws it was shipped with…
In my case for example, this is based on the fact that the J1 prints so f***ing much better than my old printer… well, if it prints that is.
Therefore and in order to save my investment I decided not to sit around and complain like others seem to prefer doing, but to rather do something about it. I do not care in the least about the company or about what they should do or should not have done - I want to be able to use that printer!
Returning was out of the question for me though - prices for people without their own business shipping such a large object back to China are simply ridiculous here. Therefore I experimented a bit first - and happily took the chance when the three of us stumbled upon each other here in the forum.
But just to be clear: IMO, Snapmaker definitely should test what we gave them and provide support to other users by offering them a repair kit or such as soon as possible. If they don’t do this and don’t openly communicate where they are at the moment (such as something like “we are building our own test machine”…" tests are running"… etc), their management is plainly stupid.
Sorry, #Mechanikus, I can’t really agree with that. I know you have to do some tinkering. I have no problems with that either. But if the printer doesn’t work at all because the firmware keeps going down, I expect a quick response from the service department.
Today, after nine days, the service department wrote to me to tell me to send the videos again because the link had expired. You can’t really think of anything else but a jerk shop!
I have about 1,400 euros sitting around and I really can’t do anything with it, not even an attempt to improve something because I can’t boot it up.
When I look at the other forums, Snapmaker also has its problems with the Artisan.
I think they should put a bit more money into the service than into their advertising that runs on all platforms!
Sorry, #Mechanikus, dem kann ich nicht wirklich zustimmen. Ich weiß das man etwas basteln muss. Damit habe ich auch keine Probleme. Aber wenn der Drucker überhaupt nicht geht weil die Firmware sich ständig verabschiedet, da erwarte ich doch eine schnelle Antwort vom Service.
Heute, nach neun Tagen hat mich der Service angeschrieben, dass ich die Videos noch einmal senden soll, weil der Link abgelaufen sei. Da fällt einem doch wirklich nichts anderes als Sauladen ein!
Bei mir stehen ca. Euro 1.400 herum und ich kann wirklich garnichts damit machen, nicht einmal ein Versuch etwas zu verbessern, weil ich ihn nicht hochfahren kann.
Wenn ich in die anderen Foren schaue, hat Snapmaker auch mit dem Artisan seine Probleme.
Ich denke die sollten mal etwas mehr Geld in den Service stecken als in ihre Werbung die auf allen Plattformen läuft!
I only focus on the hotend issue here. Since I neither have the firmware problem you seem to have nor have spent any thoughts on it, I fear I cannot say anything to what you are talking about. Since it seems you are the only one with this issue, I would however suspect that your issue is not a systematic problem but rather some error that happened during the firmware update on your printer. This is bad, but it simply happens, and I do not know if Snapmaker covers such issues. I remember from my old iPhone 4s that Apple did not cover bricking by system updates back then as well.
I hope their support has some solution for you.
Mein Text hier bezieht sich nur auf die Sache mit den Hotends. Nachdem ich Dein Firmware-Problem selbst nicht habe und auch nicht darüber nachgedacht habe, fürchte ich, daß ich dazu nichts sagen kann. Da Du aber offenbar der einzige mit diesem Problem bist, würde ich schwer vermuten, daß es sich hier nicht um einen systematischen Fehler wie bei den Hotends handelt, sondern daß “nur” bei Deinem Drucker beim Update etwas in die Hose gegangen ist. Das ist zwar doof, aber es passiert nun mal. Ich erinnere mich von meinem iPhone 4s, daß auch Apple damals nicht für “gebrickte” funktionsunfähige Geräte durch Systemupdates aufgekommen ist…
Ich hoffe, der Support findet eine vernünftige Lösung für Dich.
Here are some resolutions about that in the forum I mean. If not may be you can try factory Reset
how do you do a factory reset?
may be this helps:
The update from other user here was 10 hours at 80% unfortunately had to pull the plug
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
then switched off/on twice and then carried out the update via WiFi. may be that works with usb stick only with the update file on it
It then worked via WiFi, but to be on the safe side he tried the update from the USB stick again and it worked.
After he did this, the old firmware was still installed.
I had read that and also tried it, but unfortunately it didn’t work.
But I can try it out again.
I so wish Snapmaker would offer repair kits for this, I would have no issues paying for those for all of my extruders. I would even get the entire new extruder assemblies, as about 50% of the filaments I’m using are unprintable right now.
And to answer a question why I bought this particular 3D printer if I’m not ready to tinker with it (which I think would apply to a significant number of users): I’m reasonably good with tools, and I had zero issues servicing all of my previous printers (up to an original Prusa MK3). I can disassemble a hotend, replace the nozzle, etc - I don’t really enjoy it (and am open to shelling out money to avoid it), but if pressed, I can do it. However, making something on a lathe, etc is definitely way beyond my skills, and in general it’s not something that can be expected from an average 3D printer user, regardless of cost.
Also, I’ve had access to a couple of very (VERY - think tens of thousands of dollars) 3D printers, and I can definitely say they’re nowhere near “set and forget”. In fact, the closest I ever seen to this is my old Prusa - after I assembled and calibrated it (which took some trial and error), it was printing without issues for years.