Hi guys,
I would like to share a easy solution for the clogging issues. Its only necessary to buy parts and dis- and reassamble the hotend.
There are two variants I built:
- (recommended):
- You take the original nozzles
- buy the suggested heat breaks (Bondtech MK8 Heat Break für Copperhead Hotends | IGO3D)
- get two of those adapters (Original CNC Kitchen Volcano Adapter Version 2 – CNCKitchen | Many thanks to cnc kitchen, they will offer us 10% if we order two pcs with this code: 1JY7BWV69A1H )
- disassmble the hotend and insert the adapter and the heatbreak with themal compund.
This is the cost efficient variant and takes about 30 min.
- If you want to print very fast and need more flow you can take the same parts but use a CHT Nozzle:
https://www.3djake.de/bondtech/cht-duese-beschichtet-m6-x-175-mm?sai=11690&gclid=CjwKCAjwjYKjBhB5EiwAiFdSfug9tZMKlSQxujjN5QLg2z6std29hychm61SOmk-dQh2zgQ-X6FiLRoCU-kQAvD_BwE
The disadvantage is that with this configuration you might have to shorten the adapter because its very very scarce at the XY calibration.
At first I shortened the adapter, too:
But I crashed afterwards with the bed clamps. This is why I just tried to leave all parts as they are.
The heatbreak might not look perfectly fitting, but I never had a failed print since this rebuild. For the second configuration I took the original steel nozzles.
Thanks to all suppliers, especially CNC kitchen for fast and reliable shipping. Don’t forget the code from CNCKitchen if you want to support german shops: 1JY7BWV69A1H
In the first picture you can see all my fails of the bottle which are my project boxes now… 
I printed two of those bottles to verify the setup and both went very well. The second setup with the steel nozzle needs 15 degree higher temperatures than the configuration with the Bondtech CHT nozzle!