Does anyone have experience using Snapmaker glow in the dark PLA filament? Is the temperature or anything else different?
While I haven’t used snapmaker’s glow in the dark PLA, I do have experience with other glow in the dark. It prints just about the same as normal PLA. However, the particulates used to create the glow are very abrasive and will destroy a brass nozzle in as little as one print or maybe a half spool of filament.
Make sure to change out for a hardened steel nozzle, and possibly a larger diameter nozzle (to prevent particulate clogs, although this usually isn’t a problem with glow filaments).
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thank you!
No, but as a general advice, this filament highly requires a hardened nozzle. Otherwise you stock nozzle will get useless after a few prints.
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Thank you. I’ve ordered a hardened one based upon the chorus of agreeing voices that this is the way to go.
Please let us know how it went with it.
Did you buy it from Snapmaker directly or is it an alternative nozzle from a different manufacturer?
I bought it from Amazon. I looked at Snapmaker, but didn’t see one. Frankly, I’ve had such good experience with SN stuff, including filament, I would prefer a Snapmaker one if they have one. Did I miss one?
I am sure they are not producing the Filament by themselves, but get it from a good 3rd party manufacturer.
I have very good results with Sunlu/Jayo, eSun and Polymaker, all three offer good quality for reasonable prices. Used them in my previous high speed printer for several months before i switched to a Snapmaker device.
Oh, I think I misunderstood your question. I was answering where I got the nozzle, not the filament. The filament is Snapmaker. I’m sure it’s more, but I’ve had such great luck with it, I’m fine with that trade. And I’m not a production operation. I just make housings for Arduino projects like a macro rail I made from salvaged printer parts.
Do you have any recommendations for hardened nozzles?
Yeah, you were talking about the nozzle, i was talking about filament, sorry 
You can take any MK8 nozzle as long as it’s M6 thread size.
Typical and well known manufacturers are Brozzl, Swiss-Micro or E3D with a price range of 19-30 USD/Euro
Thank you. I’ll check out one of those.
there is one from Brozzl with a Ruby tip. E3D does have also one in portfolio. They promise perfect results and long lasting nozzle even with abrasive materials.
It is expensive and there are lots of negative feedback about this type.
I would simply use a hardened steel nozzle or at least one which is nickel coated.
Be aware that a steel nozzle does not have that high thermal conductivity. You will need to run with higher nozzle temperatures than suggested by the filament manufacturer.
Thank you. That note about temperature is helpful. Any idea how much hotter?
There is no general rule of thumb. You should print a temp tower to identify the proper settings (should be done with brass nozzles tooc, the stickers provided by the manufacturers are only general recommendations). Every printer handles filament slightly different.
Thanks again. I appreciate your candor and willingness to share.
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I have used it quite a bit. I use the same settings as any other PLA. It has worked well for me in the past.
Great! Thank you for sharing your experience.
It is always recommended for new/different filaments to run a temp tower and a flow cube first. It might work with other settings but to optimize it, the calibration helps a lot.
Good advice. Thank you.
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