I’m sorry to say that Stefix has passed away.
Considering why he regretted passwording his files to a limited extent, I don’t think I’ll publish them.
Sorry for my personal opinion.
He just wanted to know who was using it, not trying to prevent people from using his work.
I don’t think he’d have a problem sharing the files now.
The password was FiFix
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I see.
So that was the reason.
I thought it was because I hadn’t finished it yet and hadn’t gotten around to publishing it.
If he was willing to say that, then good for him!
Has anyone purchased the 310 mm x 320 mm x 4mm bed that fits the CR-10s Pro/CR-X? I’m looking for appropriate brackets to secure this to the heated bed.
I have a 310mm x 370mm. Since it overhangs the edges a bit it’s easy to clamp with binder clips. The 310x320 might be too small for binder clips to work.
There is now a snapmaker sized glass: https://www.amazon.com/GO-3D-PRINT-Borosilicate-Snapmaker-Printer/dp/B08XNDYR81
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Hi @brent113 , Thanks. I saw the GO 3D offering but couldn’t justify the more than 2x cost for a couple inches I may or may not use one day. 
I think the 310 x 320 will reach the edges if I turn it so that the 310 dimension is along the Y so that the 320 dimension reaches the edges. Then I can use 3DP’ed edge clips, hopefully.
For calibration, I set down the glass bed, then put the bed that came with my a350 on top. Once the calibration is done, I put the bed thar came with under the glass bed so it is the same height as when calibrating, and still have it print correctly on the glass bed.
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@Beginningjourney I’m honestly not sure if that method would work anymore because of the mesh leveling used during printing now being fixed with 1.12.2
@Artezio I actually think this process should work better after the levelling fix. Before it using glass worked as it made the bed flat so all the levelling had to sort was slope and the levelling offset just ment that you had to adjust what should have been the right Z offset to take into account the slope being in the wrong place.
It Sounds like aright faf to do for me though and clearly doesn’t achieve my requirement for levelling and printing from my chair.
If it works for you @Beginningjourney and the way you work then go for it. Anything that gets you a good first layer and good prints is great.
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@stewl I wasn’t sure. Though since I posted that, I have seen reports that it no longer works and people are having to put the glass on top of the flex bed. How accurate those claims are, I have no idea. But z offset shouldn’t work for only one point so I’m scratching my head.
I could be completely wrong but how I think of it is this.
Assuming the bed is completely flat and level with the print axes, the fact that the measurement points are off by x19 y10mm will make no difference at all. As long as you get the Z offset right, everything will print.
When you are printing on a steel sheet that follows the ups and downs, slopes and bumps of the frame and heated bed the levelling to print miss alignment means everything is all to pot and you will never ever get a good first layer no matter what you do unless you are the 1 in a 1000 that has a perfectly flat frame and heated bed and have not yet crashed the head into it trying to sort ont CNC 
If the bed is glass and more or less flat but following a slope relative to say the X axis then that slope will be the same even when the measurement is out by 19mm, only the actual Z offset will be different and since this is a manual adjustment you can get just as good a level even when the measurement and print points don’t align.
Changing to glass gives that flat bed so hugely reduced the impact of the miss aligned levelling and printing. This is why printing on glass fixed so many peoples problems even without the firmware fix.
The process used by @Beginningjourney will give a fairly flat bed (I dont think the plastic around the steel is that uniform) so he will get a reasonably flat bed and a decent first later which will only get better with the new software. It will not though be as accurate as levelling directly onto the surface of the glass plate you are printing on and puts another layer between the print surface and the bed heat which may not help.
It’s also a right faf of a process that requires shuffling beds and then securing them before printing every time you change anything. So sort the sensor and make life easy!
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+1 for the Go 3d – it’s working great and perfect fit.
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You can use a normal glass for a cost of a 5,00$
You can also pay somebody to cut it to the right size for you and ship it right to your house from Amazon! 
To each their own!
To others in this long post:
I just switched back to 3DP from having been in laser mode for a long time. So long that I’d almost forgotten what the process was to get my glass set up. Guess what – piece of cake! Zero regrets. Change the base out, clip the glass on top, make sure you’re in manual calibration mode, and the last step is to perform the manual calibration, exactly the same way you would if you were using the stock bed.