The nimble is a remote direct drive extruder so it is super light like a Bowden setup. And print speed is definitely related to the weight of the moving tool head (that’s why Bowden printers can print faster then direct drive) but there are limitations set by the guide screws and steppers, flow rate and other factors. And recommended is less then 60mm/s I think the default settings (in luban and in the prepare cura configuration) is 40. But I’m sure it can be pushed past that.
Yeah, unfortunately I don’t think we will fit anything inside of the existing 3d printing module. And without more technical information on the CAN controller used in the SM modules we won’t be able to make our own and still have the machine recognize it as a 3d printing head (unless we rip apart the existing module and reuse its controller, but I like leave stock parts stock)
Same on my replacement that came with the A350. I had a print fail on the original hot end, ink glob half-way through print. I wonder if that was also caused by this poor thermistor cable management?
When I put the new hot end on, I noticed the nozzle temp bouncing around like crazy +/- 10 C or more in some cases. Luckily I found this thread. I did the Tracy fix, and just pushed the wire in. It goes quite far and the temp seemed stable. However, I got another failed print - this time the plastic pulled off and looked frizzy. Again, not sure if the thermistor would cause this, but I guess it could? I just ordered some jb weld from amazon, and will see if securing this wire will help.
I wouldn’t use jb weld.
Do a search for thermistor thermal paste.
-S
Actually, this is what I ordered
J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz.
I was just going to put some over the hole so the wire can’t pull out. I guess the thermal adhesive would be more to put on the thermistor itself before pushing into the hole? Is the 550 F not hot enough to holdup to the nozzle temps?
Shurely the temperatures it can stand are high enough, but does it transfer it also from the heatblock to the thermistor well? Its kind of glue and not thermalpaste. Only a feeling in my stomache.
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I’d be worried more about the heat transfer than it’s ability to handle it. The thermal paste helps with that. I’d be worried the JB Weld could actually interfere.
I have no experience with this so can’t say for sure.
-S
thanks sdj544, found the thermistor paste. Is this the same as thermal pace for computer cpus?
Use a type that is nonconductive for the best.
I use the non-conductive paste for computer heat sinks. Works a treat now, no more temperature fluctuations.
This thread was just referenced someplace so I thought I would chime in to help out in the crosslink.
just to add clarity here, boron nitride is the proper solution. do not use arctic silver, epoxy or jbweld.
boron nitride has a high enough heat tolerance to survive the hotend, is completely nonconductive and also actually transfers heat.
arctic silver may transfer heat, but isnt rated for hotend temps and is slightly conductive, someone just posted earlier about their temp readings being all over the place from this.
jbweld is not rated to transfer heat, it might hold the thermistor in but you wont get accurate results in reading. it may or may not be conductive, i dont know.
Boron nitride is available in syringes from slice engineering on many 3d printing web stores or amazon. there are other solutions out there, but for the lamen who just wants an answer, get boron nitride. quick cheap and easy.
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It wasn’t that long ago that hot ends were not considered disposable. The idea of epoxying or JB welding a thermistor into the well is so bizarre, they are supposed to be replaceable. When a thermistor dies you just replace it. The snapmaker wiring and connector has made that more difficult though 
I guess now when the thermistor dies you just chuck the whole thing in the bin.
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Well, with the connector that tends to get jacked up, the PTFE liner which doesnt last forever and the nozzle, you got your hands full on trying to just maintain one.
for 9 bucks its not bad, but it would be nice to come up with a drop in replacement with a higher temp output and all metal construction. I know that the all metal thing is done, but i dont think anyones tracked down a new heating element at this point.
it sounds like the hotend isnt really reaching what it claims to, by quite a long shot, from what i saw on other posts. i havent encountered not having enough heat yet, but i feel like all the termistors on the snapmaker lie to us about the values anyhow and its hard to say.
I know right on on my pyrex bed backed with kapton tape, I was getting a solid 53 degrees almost across the whole plate while the machine claimed 60.
With the other backing I was using, it was higher but much more inconsistant across the surface.
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It’s a standard 24V ceramic cartridge heater, I have a bag of them
Perhaps but are they hotter than the stock one?
There’s a PID control, that’s not really a thing. If it heats up too fast because the wattage is higher then you would retune your PID
Except you can’t do that on this machine either…
ehhe,
they were talking that the termistor value chart in the firmware didnt seem to be tuned properly for the thermistor and that was explaining the wrong readings. i havent seen the post for some time but it was a really good read.
in my head i assumed that the did that on purpose to hide the fact the heatblock cant get to the temp they claim.
so in my head a higher wattage heating element and retuning the firmware to be on par with reality was the solution
i admit i am not sure i understand what PID would have to do with a heater. in my head its on/off based on the thermistor value. unless the pid is how hysteresis is controlled. but that seems like something to just run thru the firmware’s i/o
my experience with PID is if i tinker with it on my new motor project the motor does goofy shit, and needs a very precise value for the 3 different fields. i will need to learn more about this in the very near future as i use different loads on this motor, but trial and error seems like a challenge when a tiny little adjustment can make it go bonkers and i just have to ask the vendor to help me with a value lol
thats the post… yeah i hoped like with Duet Wifi boards could just run an auto Proportional Integrational Differential (PID) tune… but no they have the thermisor values hardcoded in a table. When i get chance I’ll recompile the firmware with a modified thermistor table… when i get chance!!
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I see i see i see. I am learning things! I love this forum.