Parametrisch in FreeCAD, dann kann man Höhe, Lüftung etc. nach Gusto anpassen. Würde ich übernehmen, obwohl mein J1 noch gar nicht da ist 
A parametric design in FreeCAD would be good to let one adjust the height and vent openings suiting your tastes. I would volunteer - though my J1 has not arrived yet.
Hi Sven,
du findest dieSTEP Daten hier:
Snapmaker J1 Gehäuse extension oben
#8
im #5 sind die FreeCAD Daten
Gruß
Herzlichen dank…
Can anyone tell me how to adjust bed leveling manually?
After auto calibration the left and rear of the bed are lower than right front.
How do I adjust it manually?
Check here: How to command the bed to go to Z=0?
Hi there!
Any recent information if the quality issues are solved meanwhile?
I’ve been thinking of getting an (at least) dual filament printer. Right now, I do have a Bamboo X1 Carbon with AMS and the Snapmaker J1 on my list.
This would be my third 3D printer, and the other two (one was a Snapmaker 2.0) needed a lot of tweaking. Now, that I’m old and tired , I would like a printer that work mostly out of the box. My basic aim would be printing support. Basically, I think this would be a perfect usecase for an IDEX printer.
Reading a list with 11 topics to do first makes me doubt the J1 is the right printer for me…?
I agree with your assessment about ease of use. I have wasted a lot of fiber trying to make things work. Support is slow and sometimes questions seem to be lost or ignored.
I was thinking of getting a KOKONI https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/kokonisota3dprinter/kokoni-sota-3d-printer
But I did not want to spend that much right now.
@FlyByWire Did you check out Qidi tech I-fast yet? You can now get it for about the same price as the J1. It was way above 2000$ previously but they sell it for 1699$ atm. I think it is probably a better option than J1 when it comes to ease of use, print quality and reliabillity. J1 is faster though…
As far as I am up to date, it is as follows:
)… did I forget any issues?
Regarding your use case and the alternatives that were mentioned: that is exactly why I bought the J1 - and I can confirm that IMHO this is what IDEX is best for.
The Kokoni team carefully avoids the term “multi material” in any statement I found which makes me think they cannot really do that - they use the term “multi colour” instead, i.e. they go after the Bambu.
The Qidi ist a standard dual extruder which means if the second extruder leaks that will happen while it moves over your printed part, and I could not find if the extruder has separate heat blocks (probably not) which again limits your choice of materials to combinations that allow a common hotend temperature - something I do not really like since I have learned to love the combination of PLA and PETG - cheap, both can be used for part and support and are relatively easy to handle and store.
From what I can tell (had no need to search for another IDEX printer during the last year…) I still see the J1 as a very good option for the price… but I would still do as an absolute minimum two things to a new J1, namely adding a decent amount of thermal paste between the heat breaks and their cooler, and replace the part fans and nozzles with whichever of the numerous variants you like.
Edit: on the plus side, it seems that Snapmaker has improved on the support. When I requested spares, I got an answer and the parts really fast, and they sold me whatever spare parts I wanted. Seemingly, there is no “no, we don’t sell that separately”, which I highly appreciate.
@Mechanikus Why would you assume that the I-fast doesn’t have 2 separate heating blocks when it has 2 separate nozzles? They also move up and down seperately… 
Thanks! I did not know that printer, and that picture looks quite different from the one I found. Then, it is indeed suited for dual material without compromises except maybe a leaking hotend leaving its traces.
Quite a weird lifting mechanism though, that simple plastic lever sliding on metric screws and pushing down those black blocks is something I would not dare engineering or even selling like that. But if it works…
Yes I agree it’s a little weird, but from what i’ve read it is reliable. Stratasys also used a similar switching system for their dual extruders in their early fortus printers and those too worked pretty well. The leaking you mentioned is not a big problem because the material that leaks out before the inactive nozzle cools down usually doesn’t come into contact with the printed part because the difference in z height between the nozzles…
… at least if you actually let the inactive nozzle cool down below “peeing temperature”
Thanks to all of you for comments. Good to see that the “Snapmaker community” is still that active!
I’m pretty sure that it is possible to get the J1 optimized. Right now, I am using a Troodon A400 (which is basically a Voron clone). After receiving the printer and thanks to a very active community I tweaked it to a excellent working machine (Switched linear rails, changed to DDE, upgraded to Klipper, enhanced part cooing and stepper cooling, …) but this was a long way.
The Qidi was not on my list. Looking for some direct comparison, I found this (Reddit - Dive into anything) which makes me doubt the Qidi is the better printer?!
How about the Prusa XL, worth waiting (any paying additional €500)?!
@FlyByWire if the Prusa XL fulfills your needs, if you have the space for it and do not mind the AFAIK lengthy initialisation before a print, I would personally go for that one. While their machines do not look like much, the component and build quality of Prusa is well above the J1 or (judging from the pictures) the Qidi, and Prusa is known to intensively test their developments before they sell them (something that might have saved Snapmaker quite some trouble 
…)
Hello, how do i only use the right side extruder when i ran out of filament on the left side?
Some prints will work if I manually pick BACK UP MODE . But now it wont switch to the right extruder.
Make your own thread and keep this tidy.
Thing to do second with a new J1/J1S: return it within 2 weeks of purchase.
Thanks for the write up, a couple questions about lubricating the rails:
Do we know what type of lubricant comes from the factory, and would there be issues using a different lubricant? I have Superlube and white lithium grease, I could order something else if needed but both of those lubricants were recommended by an LDO article on the subject. It seemed like the articles about lubricating linear rails all assume you start with a clean bearing.
I noticed the mounting holes for the rails run all the way through the rail mounting points. Instead of trying to use the small grease ports on the cart would there be an issue with removing a screw from the rail and pushing the cart over the hole and flooding the cart from the back side of the rail? The same LDO article describes that process for an unmounted rail I figured it was worth a try.
