First, you need to connect to your machine via USB. The reason we don’t use Luban and send gcode over wifi is that you will receive no feedback in the Luban terminal. To connect via USB, plug the cable that came with the machine into the USB mini (Not the regular USB port) port and the bottom of your power supply. Now, you would need to install the USB driver, which can be found here under “CH340 Driver”. Choose to download the one that fits your OS.
Turn on your machine and heat up your bed, this can be done via the screen or gcode, whichever you’d like. (To set your bed temp via gcode, use M140 S{temp}). I heated mine up to 70C.
Now, to connect to your machine, you would need terminal software. OctoPrint is a fantastic choice, but I did this with YAT. Both can be downloaded for free. To connect, choose the COM port to which CH340 is associated to (Power up your machine first). The settings I used for YAT are as follows. 
Remember to change the EOL settings to LF (Line feed only), otherwise, the terminal would look like my room (:D).
After the connection is established, wait until your bed is heated up for at least 5 mins. Snapmaker 2.0’s bed expands under heat, therefore the leveling is better off done when the bed is heated up. Currently, Snapmaker Devs is changing the leveling mechanism to which the heat would not be turned off during leveling process. As for now, we can only heat the bed up prior to leveling, and hope it don’t get cold during the process.
After the bed is heated, we can get started on leveling. Send ‘G1029 P7’ to the machine. This would change the machine’s leveling process to 7x7 grid. You can do up to 11x11 calibration, but the Snapmaker Devs told me the 7x7 has better results. (Probably due to it takes less time than the 11x11 and avoids the bed to cool down before the leveling process to finish.) You should see feedback in your terminal that Snapmaker has changed into 7x7 leveling settings. Use 'G1029 S to save this process. And now, we can use ‘G1029 A’ to begin bed leveling. The machine should start moving and probe the 7x7 grid. You will see that your bed stop heating, this is normal and currently there is no way around it. However, Snapmaker Devs have confirmed they are changing this right now.
After the machine finish probing, you would need to manually calibrate the z-offset. Grab your calibration card and do it like usual. Use the control function on your screen to control the print head, when you achieve the desired z-offset, send ‘G1029 S’ to the machine and save the settings, and ‘G1029 D0’ to confirm the leveling is on. Now, you are done with the leveling process, and you can check your probing data by ‘M420 V’. You can actually graph your probing data, and see it visually. (This graph here is when I did a 11x11 under heat, and bed cooled before it was finished, and you see a very big difference in height.)
You are basically done at this point, go ahead and use M500 to save the settings, and you can try do a leveling test right now. Be sure you reset your z-offset to 0.00mm when you start printing, so you don’t alter the new leveling result. You can change this to your desire, of course. Be sure to set your bed temperature back from 70C, as this temperature would deform PLA. Best of luck!