For all who want level on glass

Hi robin,

The first layer is like ever, because i calibratet the sensor between the metallplate and the sensor.

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But there is a metal plate on the glass under the sensor. So when you put away the metal plate, the glass is lower then the metal plate. The first layer then , how gould it be right??

Because in the last step, you still do the manual calibration step with the card. At this point the firmware determines the height difference between the distance of the sensor to the bed (in this case the metal plate). Assuming the metal plate is 1mm thick, it would be the same as if the sensor would be mounted 1mm higher.

All the measured levels are then set relative to what you say is the best distance to the bed for that last step. That’s actually the beauty of this solution. Doesn’t require any modification to the firmware or configuration of the machine.


@stefix very impressive! Keep up the good work :slight_smile:

Well thought out. No changes to firmware, or whatever, necessary. You make multiple users happy with this. Thank you.


Yesterday I killed my 3D Head!! But…

All from beginning…

Somehow the Sensor caught a clamp that i have used to hold the glasbed down. Its broken.
I opend the Printhed an removed the sensor and opend the defektiv Sensor carefully.
I found a little coil at the bottom of the part and the connection to the pcb were destroyd.
The lines were apox. 1/100 mm very very thin. I was unable to solder them to the pcb again.
But I noticed by the way the red LED lights in the sensor went up when I short the two contacts.

I tought by myself hmm… could a little switch do the job?

and I slegehammer engineerd this:

and belive it or not - IT WORKS!!!

@brent113 Its not so precise as FiFix so 1 or 2 or 3 1/00mm but its only an old PC-Powerswitch

Now I must find a way to make it nice and clean and praktikable.

Its like a little BTouch but you must lift it manualy at the begin and the end of levelig like my FiFix

But nevertheless I think I will order a new printhead this days.

Keep alive and kicking!


You are great! <3
This is genius!

I love the ingenuity! Have you seen the semi-automatic allen-key bed leveling method?

I think I like your solution better, but it lifting a lever or some other simple process is a popular “semi automatic” bed leveling method!


I might just have to try this. Although I don’t think my bed is as bad as others, large profile prints have a heck of a time with adhesion…

Hi, MooseJuice

I dont have any problems witch my printbed, since i print on simple glas from the local store.

Good addhesion and very plain, and the best is you can crap your prints from the bed
without dammaging it.

Keep alive and kicking!

Its the method of “Keeping it simple and stupid” works mostly nearly perfect. :+1:

I want to try to do this in the near future. I don’t really feel comfortable doing manual calibration yet (at least, I am not really interested in figuring it out) so before I do, I need to print your files :smiley:

Right now, my printer is super busy trying to get some presents for my family printed, but early January I am going to give this a try!

I would like to make a suggestion. I ran in to this this weekend (not yet using your mod but would like to implement it as well.

In stead of printing on glass I wanted to use the printbed on top of a wasteboard. I made a new one this weekend and it adds an additional 2cm on the platform. If you run the standard callibration, it just smashes the printhead into the bed because it goes down to the level it expects it to be and the sensor is positioned behind the bed.

I think it would be an added value if the pinhousing is moved a bit more forward on the printhead and the metal flange can swing around further. based on the images and stl files I can’t really judge if it can swing through far enough (haven’t printed it yet, so maybe that would work out of the box?)

I assume the glass plate you have in place isn’t too thick for that to be a problem?

(I’ll also make an issue on github to suggest to start the move downwards above the bed as that solves this problem too, byt a little bit of redundancy never hurts)

Picture where you can see the probe behind the platform when it goes down when it starts calibration.

Are you trying to use the wasteboard to mount the heated bed to because the aluminum webbed housing is not level to your satisfaction?

Still experimenting with it a bit. (and with this mode using glass is probably easier, but I was trying already. I’ll make a full post about it when I get closer.)

Short version:
I have milled a wasteboard completely flat. Or at least in parallel with the X-axis. On top of that I’ve put a silicon solder mat (can handle up to 500 degrees Celsius) as a form of insulation and to protect the wood from the heat and cause the wood to warp. And on top of that the heated platform and then the print sheet.

The heated bed in itself and/or the print plate also warp a bit because of the heat it seems and as the silicone pad can be squished a bit I can actually use it to adjust the level a bit and get it pretty flat. (got to a .2mm deviation so far when heated). and then I noticed that if I flipped the sheet my values/deviations were different and flipped as well :slight_smile: But other than that, it does work ok and the bed seems to get hotter a bit quicker.
Using an IR-thermometer, the bottom doesn’t get hotter than 35-37 degrees when the bed is at 70 degrees.

I’ll make sure I’ll post about it in the near future in a dedicated thread. Let’s keep the focus on the fifix for this one :slight_smile:

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Of course, didnt mean to detract from the awesome solution that was made here

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absolute ack!! that will solve many problems!

I think it might be as simple as to change line 88 in the following file:

    // move quicky firstly to decrease the time
    do_blocking_move_to_z(z_position_before_calibration, speed_in_calibration[Z_AXIS]);

and also add a move on the x & y axis.
But this is just by broswing the github repo during lunch. I’ve learned better than to trust comments in code :wink:

I’ll see if I can try making that change in the next days. (but have a long print running right now)

The same thing happened to my sensor last night. It apparently caught on a piece of the print that had lifted and snapped off. I’m going to see if snapmaker will send me a new one under warranty. I hope I don’t have to buy a new print head. I don’t have time to re-engineer this thing. I like your solution though.

I created a pull request for it, Don’t think a lot could go wrong with that change and at least I´ feel a bit more safe now when calibrating that I don forget to trigger the sensor by hand :slight_smile:

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