I’m going to give it a shot. I have a nice long piece of brass tubing to mess up.
You can do it boy…!
Anyone knows where in Germany I can order the mk8 slice engineering bi metal heat break for the J1 and what Nozzles did you use now
Kindly Regards
Yes, I second what i3sven said. You might be able to add a screw if you drill a hole and cut a thread, but if you leave out the distance roll your filament will be unguided there which may give you trouble with flexible material.
@JonDoe a search for “Bondtech copperhead MK8” should give you plenty of shops to buy from in Germany. Regarding the nozzle: I use Bondtech V6 nozzles as noted in the presentation since I also want to be able to print with 0.2 mm nozzle size. I had no calibration issues with them.
@i3sven uses the spider nozzles if I am not mistaken.
Ordered direct following the guide. I didn’t have the parts for the brass tubing so that was more my quandary.
I’ll let you guys know in a week or two how it goes.
Yeah, got the Brass problem too. 
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Yep, the sider are my favorite too.
I was little bit confused because the other heatsink. But I will serch for the Bondtech. 
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I had the distance rolls problem myself and in the end was able to make some myself from brass tubes. It was easier than I had thought and required only some household tools: an electrical drill to hold and rotate the pieces of brass tube, a saw to cut these pieces, a 2.3 mm drill to wide the inner tube, scissors as tool to mill the rotating piece and a set off differently grained sand paper to sand it to measure. It took about half an hour per piece after I had got it.
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I know but I have some issues with my hand. Can’t grab things very strong at the Moment. That’s why I look for some piece that’s fits. But looks not good to get to buy some
I feel with you, I myself got arthrosis in my thumb joints. But even that could not prevent me 
I bought mine here, think there is a 3djake.de to right?
It should be “slice engineering copper head bi-metal heat break mk8”.
I use the copper head hot end also but is not necessary.
And don’t forget the “boron nitrid paste”
And here are the nozzels i use from bondtech
Im with you. Hope get well soon.
I have problems with the muscles and the Bands, so I can’t grab very strong or powerful
Ah cool, now im safe to get the right parts. Thanks for your help
Yes, these are the correct ones, but 3DJake is quite expensive 
You do not need the fancy boron nitride paste for the J1 with its standard V6 heat block by the way. I went with what E3D suggested for the V6 (i.e. no thermal paste in the heat block) and used Arctic Cooling MX-4 on the connection between heat break and heat sink only. That works perfectly so far.
BTW: how did you get rid of the thermal paste that was applied at factory time? And on a side track: how do you remove the heater block - with the heating and thermo element removed or left inside?
I got the thermal grizzly paste here. Its for higher themps and I still got it for my computer. So I can use them there too between heatsink and break.
Yes 3d hake us expensive. I don’t find a other shop they have them. 3D prima don’t have it. And one other shop I see but they more expensive then 3d Jake
@Miq19 nothing fancy behind that - just some Q-Tips being screwed into the thread until.they come out optically clean - no need to remove every single trace of that stuff 
@JohnDoe May I ask how you search? You seem to miss many alternatives.
If you are patient, I suggest IGo3D. Freeform4U also seems to have them in stock, 3D-puccio.de as well…
Oh cool, I take a look there
Why are you still doing the whole heatbrake and nozzle replacement including machining a spacer, if you fixed all your clogging issues with replacing the fan and applying Grizzly Heatsink Paste onto the stock heatbrake?
Or did more tests show it wasn’t a reliable fix?
I don’t have any spacers. Will do that now. My rails are damaged and I wait for the support for a replacement.
The other heatsink is better then the stock one. So I think better to have a better one. The fan works good. But I think the quality of the print will be better if used better parts. I see the stock heatbreak works better now but it’s not optimal. For faster speed better use the Bondtech ones