Findings and solution for the Snapmaker J1 clogging problem

@Belvis Just to be sure: you are aware that if you replace the heat break, you need nozzles with a longer thread than an MK8 nozzle has? If you dig through the thread you also will find some good alternatives to the V6 nozzles I use.

@Karass3D great and very conclusive summary on the heat paste topic :slight_smile:

@Mechanikus I was thinking of modifying it like @3DPrintMunich did (post 134), in post 198 he explains that using the MK8 nozzles there is no need to shorten the adapters. Precisely for this reason I chose the MK8. Did I misunderstand something?

@Belvis Hm, he states below that post that he indeed used the original MK8 nozzle… well, then I guess it works, even if that is against what Copperhead stated about how to mount the heatbreak into a V6 heat block… I had in mind that the thread of the MK8 nozzle was over 2mm shorter… :thinking:

It might be worth noting that did not show this in his pictures (there, he only shows his second option, and that nozzle has a longer thread), so I do not know if he actually tested that configuration.

Anyway, just make sure the thin portion of the heat break is completely above the heat block. If that works and you have enough space to tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak, everything is fine.

@Belvis If you like to maintain the original length of hotend from nozzle tip till top of tailpiece (~64mm) using MK8 nozzle with 5 mm thread you will have Copperhead heatbreak protruding like in picture below.


In theory this is not right - the most sensitive part of heatbreak should be seated into heatsink as good as possible but in practice copper here helps a lot to compensate this design flaw. I used this design with MK8 nozzle for around a 1/2 year almost 24/7 printing just PLA and had no heat creep clogs at all.

Using V6 type nozzles with 7.5 mm long thread will give better position of heatbreak - it can be seated 2.5mm deeper. @obertini in his post #216 in this thread has disclosed his modification using GammaMaster AP3X nozzle from SliceEngineering. This nozzle has V6 length of thread yet maintaining the same form factor of original SJ1 nozzles. In addition this nozzle should bring wear resistance needed for abrasive filaments.

Nozzle alignment calibration with MK8 form factor is tricky indeed. The 90 degree plough type tip in particular does not interfere well with calibration method SJ1 uses. I was lucky after several failures to complete alignment finally but result was still bad - around 0.10mm off on Y-axis and 0.05mm on X. Visible and touchable. I would prefer to have manual adjustment feature in firmware. Maybe it is implemented now - I have not followed yet as all my prints are in Duplication mode for now. My long term experience in machinery maintenance tell me simple yet significant belief - never touch working machine! So I still run my SJ1 on native firmware but sure will need to update if any good features will be implemented.

Temporary switching back to original nozzles brought sure alignment procedure and better result too yet I recognized X-axis left toolhead carriage is already worn out heavily - wobbling like hell (only 7 month of printing :frowning: ) so the most misalignment now was coming from there. Need to replace the whole X axis…But this is another story, off topic here :slight_smile: So I suggest more slim nozzles for better alignment but I suppose not only this plays role here - mechanical stiffness of linear rails and good electrical conductivity from nozzle to further circuit comes in account too.

@Karass3D ah, your beautiful copper heatsink :slight_smile:

If I interpret the last firmware changes here correctly, manual adjustment still is not implemented, no. I found however that even with the rather blunt cone of the Micro-Swiss V6 nozzles I use, the calibration routine I implemented on the Duet in my J1 works reliable, so it is basically possible to improve this in the printer firmware.

Hello,I have ordered a J1 printer and is looking forward to tinkering with it, I have not yet received my J1 printer yet but I have spare parts for my old printer which uses a volcano hotend and I have some spare copper-titanium heatbreaks for it, Image is attached below with dimensions. I would like to know if its possible to use this heatbreak with a PTFE tube as spacer since its got a hexagonal flange at the end.

Also, I know this may be a little off topic but would a CHT style nozzle be a meaningful upgrade on this hotend?

Hello, has this been resolved in J1S version?

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No, everything stayed the same…

So buying the printer now it means it’s jut a paperweight?

I already modded my hotend with:

  • E3D V5 bimetal heatbrake,
  • 10mm distance inside heat sink (prototypes are printed from nylon/polycarbonate-ABS, Aluminium is planned),
  • CHT nozzles designed for Bambulab printers.

It works great except TPU/TPE flexible materials, where CHTnozzles don’t work (but standard Bumbulab nozzl nozzles are OK.

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Fantastic information, may I ask why bambu nozzles? Does it work better than standard V6 nozzles or did you just happen to have them?

I want to try it, because they have longer thread (and, as result, better heat transfer directly to the nozzle). Additionally, they are almost fully covered by silicone (and it is not cooled from fan).
Anyway, the main motivation for my experiment was broken original heatbrake and the difficult way how to get a spare part (and the its price;)

Dear Snapmaker J1/J1s Users,

We’ve sent out an email to all J1/J1s users today. In case you missed out on that, here’s the email content:

We understand that some of you have been experiencing clogging issues with your Snapmaker J1/J1s, and we are committed to addressing these concerns to improve your printing experience. To gather valuable insights, we kindly request your participation in a survey regarding the hotend clogging issues. We encourage all users who have experienced hotend clogging issues, whether recently or in the past, to take a few moments to fill out the survey. Your input is crucial in helping us better understand the extent of the clogging problems and evaluate appropriate after-sales solutions.

Survey Link: J1/J1s Clogging Issues Survey

We also recognize that some users may have already found DIY solutions to address clogging problems. We encourage these users to participate in the survey as well, as your insights are invaluable in inspiring our future product improvements.

Additionally, we are continuously improving our hotend design and manufacturing processes to better accommodate various printing materials. A new hotend kit (0.4mm) will be available on our official online store by the end of February, with individual left/right hotends and high-speed fan accessories planned for release in the coming months.

The survey deadline is 2024-02-15, and we aim to complete the analysis by 2024-02-19. We may then reach out to some users for further communication.

Your participation in the survey is crucial to shaping our after-sales solutions, and we sincerely appreciate your support and trust in Snapmaker. Thank you for being part of the Snapmaker community!

Warm regards,
Snapmaker Team

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@JohnDoe @i3sven @Mechanikus @Karass3D @Miq19 @Mads0100 @3DPrintMunich @SnapSnap @nnowak @Rwide @wfux @evilC @n3dp @Belvis @StePhDen2020 @Kiwirob @Albert @naPS @Pautz @Jaeger @obertini @mehlawlarz @StePhDen2020

Hi all, I’ve noticed discussions about hotend clogging in previous posts, and I value your input. If you’ve experienced this issue, could you please take a moment to fill out our survey? Your feedback is crucial for improving our after-sales support. Feel free to skip if not interested. Thanks a bunch!

Hey Zoe,

I have a A350 with the DX. We have similar heat creep issues.

Hi Zoe,

while I honestly admit I do no know what else to tell you about the issue apart from the presentation @i3sven was so kind to post here several months ago, I took the time to fill out your survey.

But… you are aware that we did share all our findings with the Snapmaker team before even posting them here, aren’t you?

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@Zoe Hi Zoe. The obvious and easy solution for this issue has been a bimetal heatbreak for a very long time. This should have been very easy to provide. It’s not rocket sience… I feel like If Snapmaker really was interested in improving after-sales support moving forward, they should ask themselves why such an easy and obvious fix to eliminate their customers problems in this regard was not implemented a long time ago…

Hi @Mads0100

May I ask have you tried reaching out to our support? If not, I recommend submitting a ticket so we can assist you with routine nozzle clogging troubleshooting. Also, check for updates on the print head version: Support Ticket.

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Hi @Mechanikus

Firstly, thank you for taking the time to fill out the survey. Secondly, Riskey had previously shared your findings with our engineers. Appreciate your collaboration!

Hi @Rwide

We apologize for the extended handling time on this after-sales issue. Currently, our new hotend kit (0.4mm) is set to be available on our official online store by the end of February, with individual left/right hotends and high-speed fan accessories planned for release in the coming months. We will also review our approach to addressing this issue and explore ways to shorten the timeline in the future. Thank you for your feedback.

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