OK, Thank you for that. I will have a little play. Do you have the original .svg image? What are the hole dimensions and what depth is the stock material?
I do have the original .svg image just not accessible from work right now. The hole dimensions should be 2mm diameter and 6mm deep. The stock material was 20mm deep.
Thanks very much. 
I have had a look at the .jpg attachment file carefully and converted it to an .svg file a number of different ways. None of the conversions look to be suitable to my jaundiced eye.
Here is an image that shows that the holes are not really holes which will be suitable for cribbage pegs.
The file looked ok initially and looked reasonably good to work with…
However, In the end I found it was grouped in various sections that made no sense to me.
This sort of grouping has implications for what part of the tool path gets filled and what gets left behind. The red highlighted areas are grouped. As the file was a .jpeg file anyway, I would not trust what my .svg conversion processes have done.
I will wait for the formal .svg file when you have the time.
FWIW (not much usually) I would aim to create 3 different pocketed paths at say… 1 mm in depth to describe the path to the player. My fourth path would be for drilling the holes. You may be able to get away with the files in layers but I suspect that cutting the holes will be non trivial when included with your toolpaths.
How did you plan the spaces between the holes? I presume you have 121 holes per pathway?
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Let me explain a bit how I did this.
I created the design in Adobe Illustrator. I drew the paths and then duplicated them and told Illustrator to do a blend replace spine to distribute 120 holes along the pathway which saved me the trouble of manually placing all the points (the start/finish points were done separately). I then put down the 5 point markers and the skunk, double skunk, and triple skunk lines. I originally saved it as two svg files one with just the points and one with just the lines because my first plan was to just drill the points and use the laser to engrave the lines.
This is how that test turned out (the holes were way too big because it cut around the hole and the spacing for a bunch of holes was off):
I discovered at this point that Illustrator wouldn’t let me move the holes because of the whole blend thing. So I opened the svg up in Inkscape and tweaked the hole placement with that. When I closely looked at the svg file, I realized it didn’t draw filled in holes just circles or at least that’s the way Luban treated them so I decided to try work from a .png file.
(At some point, I also realized my design size 12"x24" (305x610mm) was significantly larger than what the SnapMaker could work with. So I scaled it down to 174x348mm then realized that my peg holes were now too small so I had to go in and manually rescale 372 points. I also decided to try and carve out a shallow (1mm deep) path line that I would have the laser engrave (and possibly color later).
Anyway, here’s the svg I’m currently working from.
How did you get Carbide Create to work with a vector file? I couldn’t figure out how to do that without it just being a drawing that you had to trace over.
For grins and giggles, here’s the progress on my latest test relief print using my 2mm dremel bit. I had it just drill 1mm deep holes to speed the run up (though it’s been going for about 24 hours and says it still has 7 hours to go)… just only occurred to me that the engraved paths will probably be near invisible if the max depth in the relief print is only 1mm.
Hi Chris: To get a file (.svg or .dxf) into CC , use the import button. (see attached file:)
Your crib board .svg file:
Complete:
Left path:
Middle path:
Right path:
I would choose to cut each path separately without moving the workpiece and I would definitely separate the holes and do those as a separate item for each path.
I have appended a dropbox link to the CC file type that will let you do what you want with the file.
It is sized for 174 x 348mm The CC work area was sized to the same dimension.
You can get the file from my dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/a2awq4uwgse0l6d/Cribbage%20Board%20individual%20lines.c2d?dl=0
In case you’re tracking downloads, I’ve downloaded this project to my TO-DO folder.
I’m interested to see the internals of the file to learn more about how some of this works.
I really should probably do a CAD/CAM course sometime 
Thank you both for sharing your experience.
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Update: The file, essentially a text file has some non-text characters at the end of the file. I’m not sure if they’re supposed to be there or not.
OK Chris, here is a screen grab of your file in Lightburn. I put each path on a different layer.
A short video presentation on your files in Lightburn… my apologies for cutting off the last two seconds. The last path works just as the other paths did.
The lightburn file for you containing all three paths sized for 174 x 348mm
I have checked and the Lightburn file downloads onto your desktop just fine and it works.
Wow, thanks for the all the assistance. I’ll have to dig up some more test wood and play around with this tonight.
You’re welcome. 
just a thought… I would suggest you use a scrap of wood to check the power and speed settings. Clicking over each of the coloured settings in the cut and layers palette will open them and let you adjust them. If the laser is scorching too much at that speed, just double the speed and see if the burn suits the path better.
Note: My file is set to my own chosen user origin of centre but you can set it to whatever you are comfortable with.
You could overlay your holes onto the completed burn and just drill the holes 6mm deep without the need to cut them larger than 2mm. I remember when I wanted Luban to create points for me to drill my holes by hand on my new bed, that it created circles. I did ask but it is just one more
Luban issue question that was never resolved.
Final caveat that just occurred to me… vector file lines have direction but not width, you may need to recreate your drawing with some additional width. I suppose that something like a 4mm path width (to be burned by the laser beam) would allow you to place the 2mm hole at a distance of 1mm from each edge of the laser burned path. It would probably fit and not look too cramped.
I will be interested to see how it turns out.
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A thought… if you could let me have the .svg hole only file, I may have a good solution for applying the holes to the workpiece.
Here are separate .svg files for the holes and the lines
For what it’s worth, when I try and use Carbide Create for the hole toolpath it just gives me an empty toolpath.
Thanks for the files Chris.
It depends on the cut you request. I would suggest that you need to cut on the tool path, not pocketed or either side of the toolpath line. I have a link to my messing with the holes .svg file. I used an online system known as Easel.
The link below is to what I achieved in a few seconds. I resized the wood to 174 x 348mm but that is the absolute dimension of the workpiece. I also sized the .svg file to 174 x 348mm and after importing the file into Easel as an .svg file I centred it and removed 14mm from each dimension. The new dimensions of the holes all together are 160 x 334mm. This permits the centre of the 2mm holes to be about 7mm away from the edge of the workpiece all the way around. I changed the bit for a 2mm straight sided bit and placed the holes to be drilled on the path at 6mm. Once you get to my page on Easel, just press [⌘+ A] to show you the settings used after clicking over the left hand side of the page. You will have to reduce your laser paths to the same dimensions as I have used to get everything to line up again.
A further thought, you may be able to download the file directly to SM2. If you click on Machine at the top of the menu bar in Easel, it will take you to a couple of drop down menus. Machine and model are set to other (grbl) and other respectively. Don’t press set up your machine button but click on the Advanced >> link in the bottom right hand corner. This will take you to a place where you can press a generate G Code button and then you can press the save G Code button that appears. I did this and got a 779k .nc file which I previewed in Camotics and it works fine. Running time is estimated at around 43 minutes. I have attached the file that relates to the preview file in Easel.
Cribbage board.nc (779.2 KB)
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