A350 - printing on glass

I printed two things on the ultrabase… amazing.
Top quality and so easy to remove!

I’ll build four stops to fix the bed.
If they are working, i‘ll publish the STL‘s for them.

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Ok guys ! I did bought a 2mm bed Glass. I did print with manual calibration and it work perfectly.
I want to try auto-calibration but I’m afraid do I need to put aluminium plate on the bottom of the glass bed ?
What best solution to lock the glass bed on the SM2 ?

You need a magnetic material (aluminum isn’t).
But i think it wouldn’t work, because the sensor detects the surface. But the metalplate is 2mm under the surface.

I printed four holders, they fix my ultrabase. I’ll post an image soon.

in theory you could swap the inductive sensor for another one with a higher Sn (nominal switching distance). Like 4 or 5mm and then you could auto level with the glas bed on it.

I think the sensor is also at fault for some of the destroyed build surfaces.

So here is my solution for the anycubic ultrabase (310x310mm)
(Calibration manually)

Made four fixes at the corners, fits perfect!

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I just had the start of my next print try to start at least 2mm below the glass. This is with manual calibration and NO quick calibration. No manual calibration was done after the initial one when I installed the glass bed. The only thing I did was “adjust settings” before this print IE bed temp up from 50C to 55C. So I’m guessing this is related to a homing issue or a calibration stacking issue. Either way I was there and killed the machine as it drug the nozzle along the edge of my glass. Please @Snapmaker we need a remedy quickly.

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We need to be able to edit manual calibration point without doing all the 9 point from start !

What the G-Code command to change the point number 3 ?
is it this commands ?
G29 W I0 J2 ZX.XX
Please need help
@Edwin

I think it should be
G29 S3 I0 J2 Zx.xx

and then an M500 to save it

see here

No it doesnt work They use there own code for Leveling the bed.

I have Octoprint connected to mine now and will see what I can find out about editing the points via a plugin or two.

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Looks good, what matrix size did you calibrate with? I presume 3x3 should work fine if the material is flat, which glass will be.

DPH_1V2.stl (19.7 KB) DPH_2V2.stl (19.7 KB)

Here are the STLs for the corner fixtures.

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So far, this is working really nicely! Thanks @Raptor for the brackets. I had to “shave” them down a tad since normally i print the first layer width more than 100% for some “squish” into the standard bed, so there is typically a small lip on them, but just after a bit of that, they fit great with the original screws.

Summary:

And that was is. In the pic I am printing mask ear savers in TPU. There is an entire thread on that if you search for TPU (that’s important as there is an “insert” to print to best get that to work, also at the time of this writing, could be updates in the future to help with that).

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what size glass bed is required for the A350?

edit:
nevermind, it looks like the 310x310x4mm is the proper size. still waiting to receive my kickstarter

The bed is actually 335 x 365mm

thank you. is there any place that sells a glass bed this size?

Try your local glass shop that’s where I got mine.

Is 335mm x 365mm the actual bed size or the size of glass needed to use the printed brackets?

I’ve found that Fab Glass and Mirror (http://fabglassandmirror.com) has good prices and ships with lots of padding (the packing materials far outweighs the glass). I bought a 3/16" thick mirror for my Promega and will probably do the same for the A350. They only deal in Imperial units on their website, but 335mm x 365mm is almost exactly 13-3/16" x 14-3/8" (within a small fraction of a mm).

335x365 is the actual size of the bed. It is the size I ordered. No idea what size is needed for the printed brackets.