Very interested in your findings. I have glass with zyflex on it and want a sensor for the laser and CNC for bed leveling. Been pushing support for the BlTouch or similar so one sensor would work for all surfaces and modules. Make bracket that stays on x-axis and a quick connect plug. Keep up the work !!!
no habeis probado placa de fibra de vidrio negra,a mi me funciona y es mas resistente,y lo de calibrar es usar la magnetica que trae,y calibrar y cuando lo haga y haya que subir o bajar el hosten,sacar la placa ,y poer la otra,entonces subir y bajar como la placa original,ydarle a save y ya esta,hola buenas noches
se pude cortar a la medida la cama,osea funciona tanto con abs o pla
So, i am going to talk to a local glass supplier tomorrow about some pyrex
Is 13-1/8" x 14-3/8" close enough in size to the heated bed?
1/8" thick should be ok?
I think I have thought of a way to modify the printer for a glass bed, all we need is to 3d print a small bracket with a plastic spring holding a washer or other metallic item that moves up and down towards the existing sensor, this way it could measure glass at the required points and then we would remove the sensor adaptor after it was levelled. It should be more consistent than sitting a metal plate on top of the glass bed as it would be the same for all points.
@Tigercjn : Someone already beat you to it
Interesting, a bit over-complicated and not sure why the design uses brass as a non-ferrous target material will result in a shorter sensing distance.
You should ask @stefix yourself. I would assume it’s just what he had laying around. And his numbers show it’s pretty repeatable & quite accurate.
Its right i was using brass for the plate, but how @brvdboss said its just laying around works good and precise.
You are right in that ferrous metals will detect further, magnets further still, but in actuality the non-ferrous metal is going to give you the most accurate result. At least based on my experience.
We often cheat our proxs by using ferrous metals at work, but our application doesnt require precision.
I hope you would be using the glass as a print bed while 3d plastic printing. But some how I had an image of using the laser to etch an image on a glass pane. I’m not sure that is possible. Normal glass suffers from the tremendous heat in one spot when the surrounding glass is cold causing cracks. But I know nothing…
Yeah its a goal of the community to make it easy to print on a glass bed in terms of calibration methods, since the existing sensor can’t read through the glass to the heated bed.
Glass beds are ideal for their consistently flat and smooth surface.
although it is quite possible to laser engrave glass, not for sure if the snapmaker can do it or not (havent even looked at the laser yet). i am pretty sure that the existing module cannot, the new module in development might be able to, but i think clear is a lot harder to do than tinted so it may not be doable without a more powerful machine such as a co2 laser.
Not to hijack the thread, but it is possible to engrave (lightly etch) glass on SM 2.0. Need to use something like a sharpie or dry erase marker on clear glass so that it will absorb heat.
How do you guys mount the glass bed to your heated bed?
I tried binder clips and it wasn’t enough to hold it on the bed.
i just designed these clips
2mm is way too thin. You will get the same wavy nastiness you get with the standard bed because the glass just isn’t thick or stiff enough. I’ve just cut a piece of 5mm mirror that I’m going to try (I have a piece of the same glass on my old Prusa Mendel, and it has worked well). I think I’ll run with manual levelling as suggested by @onyx0909 .
I can’t find FiFix’s STL. Thingiverse is terrible.
Its secured by a password, that I will send everyone who wants it, from my heart.
Only send me a PM. I do it this way only as I am nosiness who want to print it.
FiFix is offline right now, Stefix is working on a revision @stefix
I use 1/8" pyrex glass and its awesome. I am currently trying it with that orange kapton tape on the back side, previously was using a magnetic adhesive sheet.
Testing to see how good it is in those scenarios, and will be doing the same with regular glass too.
looks like stefix beat me to the punch
@MooseJuice I am using normal windowglas 4mm an its good for me, but take care if you are using higer temperatures for the bed. I killed one at 90°C with ABS. I heard at the mornig terrible noises out oft my hobbyroom. It seems someone was crusing glas, and so it was. the sheet broke and was terminated between the bed and the Z axis!! My best friend (SM2) was not amused