Will a rotary burr cut wood?

I discovered, the hard way, that the machine does not retain its origin if restarted. I was cutting out a piece with the 1.5mm bit and it only cut one tool path. (I think, in retrospect, I may have only exported the one path - but that an issue of my aging brain, not the SM.) Either way, I exported the path that wasn’t cut and sent it to the machine but, while the display seemed to think the machine was cutting, the CNC head never moved. I’ve noticed some quirks with the machine on recovery, where I needed to restart. While this was not an official recovery, it seems that just trying to cut two jobs, one after the other, was a problem. So I restarted the machine. I hadn’t moved the piece, or anything, so I sent the SM to it’s origin, and it smashed into the piece and broke the bit. Lesson learned. Long story, ummm…
Not that short… The problem is, I don’t have any more 1.5mm flat end bits. I ordered some, but while I am waiting, I was wondering if anyone has used a 1.5mm rotary burr bit to cut wood. I just happen to have a couple of those.

Actually it does. There probably are situations where this doesn’t happen. But as long as the same toolhead remains connected, normal power down etc it should keep it’s origin. Do note it’s very easy to accidentally set the origin again. I’ve done that multiple times by accident as well.

tip: always write down or take a picture of your origin on the screen when running multiple paths.

Or perhaps the origin used for your second toolpath wasn’t the same as for the first toolpath?

Final question, what software did you generate the toolpath with? (I mostly use Fusion 360) I have had issues with other software like flatcam that probably did use some unsupported gcode that did mess things up.

I haven’t done that. It might work, but I guess the results won’t be great. heat might be a problem and I wouldn’t be surprised if it would cause enough heat to actually set the wood on fire. If you do try it, make sure you’re around.

It’ll cut wood. Pretty much anything metal with an edge will cut wood. The real questions are how accurately, with what surface finish, and for how long. Rotary burr doesn’t completely describe the cutting bit; some can be like milling cutters, some like rasps. Something called a burr isn’t typically meant for numeric control, so the diameter it cuts may not be same as its nominal diameter.

If you’re just getting up to speed with the machine, sure, use some rotary burrs. Don’t expect the best results, and be fine with that because the cutting bit is probably not yet the limiting factor in getting the work you want out of the machine.

I didn’t change anything on the machine, didn’t move the head. It finished it’s fist cut and raised the z-axis. That’s when I realized it wasn’t going to execute the second path. I loaded and started the second path. The tool head never moved, but the touchscreen showed progress as if it was cutting. Powered off, then on. Didn’t reset the origin. Just pressed moved to origin and it tried to dig a hole. I’m guessing that if SM thought it was moving, when it wasn’t, that, in the end, the tool head wasn’t in the position the machine thought it was.

It was Fusion 360. Pretty sure I forgot to select both tool paths when I fist processed. Newbie mistake. But, then, I’m a newbie, so I’m okay with that. Mostly annoyed that I didn’t have a spare bit, to try again.

The rotary burrs I have are, supposedly, for PCB cutting/etching. I was just wondering if anyone had some first-hand experience using that sort of bit on wood. (Birch) I will experiment. Just wanted to see if someone came back with a dire warning, first.