What I want to know is this, I reset my U1 back to factory, went through the whole process of setting it up, calibration etc and still MultiAce was installed, luckily the patch for the other thing was removed, just wonder how MultiAce survived, don’t get me wrong I am happy it saved time?
That Snapmaker-U1-Orca-MultiACE-edition has major issues, it would still only select Ace Pro 1 No3 in PLA when I sliced at Ace Pro 2 No 3 in PETG, no matter the colour, major issues, yes I will avoid like the plague until it is fully working, lost a days printing yesterday
Maybe I do need to redo MultiAce, 2 prints now since restoring my U1 to factory and using the MultiAce still installed, but started in the wrong plac e on the build plate and started to scratch the plate, luckily I saw it and stopped the print, restarted a fresh and it printed normally, weird
In the Firmware configuration page, you can uninstall it, or you can use SSH commands to do so. I think the factory reset should only replace its own files.
RFID tags:read the UID of any tag, read and write for open tags (ACE2-Open units). Not every tag’s content can be read, but the card UID can be read from every tag (Bambu, Snapmaker, Anycubic, OpenSpool, blank), so any spool can be identified. OpenSpool and blank NTAG tags are read automatically when the spool is inserted; the picker gets Read tag and Write to tag buttons (OpenSpool or Anycubic format, optionally with the card UID as SKU so every ACE (V1, V2 Stock) recognises the spool). Experimental: tag reading and writing has so far been tested on a single printer with one set of ACE 2 Pro units - expect rough edges and report what you see. And due to the ACE 2 hardware only one side of a spool can be written - a spool with a tag on each flange gets the tag facing the reader written, the other side stays as it is.
ACE2-Open firmware — flash from the web UI. Flash an ACE 2 Pro straight from the Config tab: stock 1.1.31, or patch automatically to ACE2-Open build. A big thank you to Simon-CR - his ACE 2 Pro firmware research and the ACE2-Open UID passthrough are what make everything below possible. (Flashing is at your own risk - never during a print, never unplug.)
Spools bound by card UID. A spool can be identified by its chip’s serial, not only by the tag’s SKU - several codes per spool, learned on hand assignment, shared with Spoolman and SpoolLink.
Pressure advance per spool. The stock flow calibration is stored on the spool and applied automatically whenever that spool is loaded; synced with Spoolman using the same field as the pechex/SpoolLink mod. The preflight can run the calibration per head at print start (#115).
API documentation for slicers, hosts and scripts now ships with multiACE - see API documentation.
Also: stock firmware 1.6.0 support, a load fix against crushed tips on reloads, auto-dry soft start, preflight and web UI fixes, installer fixes.
I have a weird problem, ever since trying that new Snapmaker-U1-Orca-MultiACE-edition build and removing it, I have restored back to Factory 5 times, and even after a full restore when I go to print my first print always starts in the top right of the bed, not where I set it to, I stop it and start the print again and it starts where it was sliced to print.
How do I remove everything, total and start again?
I followed your instruction (at least i tried to) on post-apopolytic for making the cables for each ace 2 pro. I have a bad feeling this isn’t correct. Your connectors look different even though mine said microfit 3.0. So this makes me unsure if the orientation is correct and the colors are in the correct spots. I took pics from front and back. This is correct connector (female microfit 4pin)?
No not yet, I’m up and running again but I just know it’s not right, something is not working as it was.
Wish I’d never bothered now, unlike you’re fully working MultiAce I am at a loss.
I ran the blank .txt file and it reset the machine but your MultiAce was still installed, although back to 0.99b even though I’d updated it the same day.
It’s no wonder the creator of this patch isn’t answering messages
I’m new to 3D printing and have been drawn to the Snapmaker U1. With the multiACE feature, it becomes more in line with my use case. I was hoping to have AMS-style convenience while allowing at most 8 colors to store/print using dryers (2 units of Ace 2 Pro). My multi-color prints will be toys for the kids.
I’ve been monitoring the progress of multiACE. I’ve also read the Reliability section of the documentation (very clear documentation is a big plus btw). I’m also all for open-source (as a software developer) and comfortable tinkering stuff.
How does the number of reliable swaps (~ 60-120) realistically impact printing? I’m not expecting 100% trouble-free experience, just want to manage my expections.
Seriously ready to throw this in the bin, every first print now starts in the top right of the build plate no matter how I slice, I have to stop it and reload the print and start again, then it starts where I sliced it, I have done the calibrations all of them.
That patch has caused so many issues I never had before, why did I bother?
Have you seen these available on AliExpress, seem too good to be true, mind you they might be ok for newcomers, I have also managed to bag 2 complete Tool Heads for £97 delivered
Its not available in my country.. But it guess these are the multiACE Adapters. Yes.. i will sell complete cables too, very soon.. (First batch was wrongly configured) so if newcomers want wo buy, the money goes directly to the developer.. This is someone else… so i am not super happy about using my products name.. but china..
