Before the change to 220c for pulling the filament out it was quite violent at times with it’s attempts at pulling out of the toolhead, not blaming the MultiAce, was asking if anyone knew how to fix the collet, if I were still just on Snapmaker basic firmware I doubt it would have happened, it could happen to anyone better to warn than keep questioning if it is in the right place surely!
Not sure it would be any easier, you would need supports along the whole shoulder parts
So I’m really tempting to do this I can get 2 brand new ace pro 2 for about $420 right now and or I can get 4x ace pro for $440 is it better to go with the pro 2 or original one as then I can do 8 colors on 2 printers or it be 8 colors on 1 printer lol but I want what works better of the two in this mod
ACE2’s are the better Unit overall, more silent, better sealed, don’t tangle filament so often, RH sensor (which will soon be used for auto-drying feature). What i can’t tell: if its worth 2 times the price for you. Then you have to decide which mode you want to go with: multi oder head.
If you haven’t tested it before, maybe start with 1 unit to see if it meets your expectations (which gives you 7 colors already in head mode)
I don’t need to update the Paxx firmware do I?
Just updating MultiAce does it I assume?
Or am I wrong?
Thanks again
Yes.. The new bin is build on 1.5.2 paxx, but you can surely just update your version.
I already updated to the v0.99.6.2b 2 days ago, is there a newer version coming?
There is always a newer version coming 
But this is the newest version for now.v0.99.6.2b is the hotfix 2..
Can I install it on the standard U1 firmware?
Yes, just enable root and advanced.
Just finished 6 color model with flawless changes. The new tip forming is just incredible. So quite hard to tell it’s changing. No pulling just extremely smooth changes. This is incredible.
Cool, did you change the values?
Yes it did. Checked in fluid during change. 220 on the dot. Working flawlessly. Cheers
All right, i meant if you changed other parameters, default is temp to 220 only, no tip forming. But the temp change alone seems to help a lot.
Not sure what other parameters you would recommend. Seems the temp change has made a huge difference. Can you elaborate on what else I could be looking to change.
If you’re happy, I’d recommend to keep it that way, just asked if you changed something, possibilities are there:
Hi, I’m new here and have a question right away. I performed a complete installation today using an ACE Pro 2, and at first it seemed like everything was working fine. However, my U1 seems to have issues with ink delivery, and the print quality looks quite poor. Printhead 1 seems to be working correctly — you can clearly see the buffer at the back of the ACE compensating for it, but this isn’t happening for heads 2, 3, and 4, which explains the result 
Clearly, not enough ink is being delivered; the ACE probably isn’t keeping up with the replenishment. Why does it work perfectly at printhead 1, and why don’t the buffers at 2, 3, and 4 react at all? Could you give me a tip on what might be causing this?
There are 1-4 “good” coils in the ACE.
Replies
Sounds more like a Ace Problem to me. Please try in “per Head” mode on Head 1. If the problem persists, its not U1 related.
I think so too! The ACE looks “weird” even after the filament has loaded. Only LED 1 stays lit continuously, while the others blink. And only Buffer 1 is slightly pushed out from the back panel (which to me means: Buffer active), while the other three are flush with the back panel. So: ACE Pro 2 is defective, software is fine (?)
How do the LEDs light up for you after loading? What do the buffers on the back look like?