Troubleshooting


#164

Oh, duh, I just realized you probably mean you can’t get the screw out… At any rate, unfortunately, the heater block is still a consumable and your situation is probably not covered under warranty; I’ll be keeping an eye on this thread though, in case a solution arises.

In the mean time, you might try putting a bit of superglue on the end of an allen wrench and gluing it in to the screw. You might be able to get the screw out that way, at the cost of the allen wrench (so don’t use the Snapmaker allen wrench) but at least you’ll have gotten your heating element out and will be able to stick it into a new heater block.


#165

Hi All

I recently had to swap a nozzle/heater block and thought the set screw had jammed or was stripped I was wrong.

Rainie wrote an instruction on removing the set screw by running the Change Filament and heating the nozzle up again and being careful, try and remove the set screw after it has reached operating temperature.

I did this and was able to remove the set screw, stop the Change Filament heating and when cool, replaced the heating block/nozzle with the spare. See Heating Tube Screw Stripped

Doug


#166

This may also work. Come to think of it, I’ve only ever done these operations hot (with pliers and tweezers, of course), which might explain why I haven’t had this issue.


#167

I would not suggest loosening those platform screws. I keep them tight.

BTW, once I calibrate my bed, I hardly have to recalibrate.

I only calibrate when I -

  1. adjust the bed screws
  2. remove/attach a module
  3. assemble/disassemble axis attachments to the base/each other.

So far the Snapmaker has kept my calibration spot on for these past few weeks.


#168

Indeed, calibration seems rock solid. I added packing tape to my bed last night to get a glass-smooth finish on one side of a print (worked well BTW) and needed to calibrate for that, and again when i removed the tape after the print; aside from that, just when I change modules.

The trouble is, sometimes calibration takes a few tries (with a failed print in between each). With @doug’s measurements, that process just became a lot more reliable… I hope.


#169

I just realized why calibration is such an ordeal for me. During calibration, I noticed the Z-axis falling as mentioned in this thread: Z-Axis falling down?

Of course, once the Z-axis falls (a fraction of a mm in this case) the Snapmaker no longer knows where it actually is and any calibration I do from that point becomes invalid. When this happens, I have to exit and re-enter the calibration screen, starting the process over.

@Rainie it seems that Snapmaker can lock an axis in position and that, maybe, it releases that lock after a set time? If this is the case, perhaps the Z-axis should remain locked in place during calibration?


#170

Yep, the screw holding the heating element to the block is completely and utterly stripped. I may try the crazy glue route later to try and recover the block and nozzle, but I’ll need a new screw for after.

I ended up cutting the element wires and removing the whole thing, block, nozzle and heating element and removing the plug. I tried to re-use the crimp plug by soldering the new HE into it, but apparently didn’t do a good job of re-establishing a connection, as the Snapmaker would not heat up the HE. I’m going to need to find a stock of plugs and a crimp tool before trying again.

As you can see, the screw holding the element in is completely stripped


#171

Wow, looks like you’ve had that thing in and out of there a number of times! Best of luck salvaging it!


#172

I made one attempt, with the right sized allen wrench before taking this picture. It looks a lot worse now.


#173

@Rainie I received screen replacement and now my printer can calibrate, change filament and engrave at 70%))
Most important bugs solved


#174

I had the same problem !
I’ve never removed the nozzle before
Then when I wanted It was impossible

I changed the nozzle but I had to drill the original screw which was broken impossible to unscrew
because the hex key was either too small or too big


#175

I’ve had my SM for about a week now, made a few prints, changed out the nozzle, lots of fun things. The issue I have now is - I start to print, the nozzle and bed go to 27/200 and 18/50 (default PLA) stay there for a short while (a minute? maybe 2?) then go to 27/0 and 18/0 and the screen is non-responsive. Have to turn it off/on to get any response from the screen. Looking for suggestions to get this thing moving again


#177

Hi, before I print the ABS or other need higher temperature material need wait very long time, this is a normal behavior or not?


#178

The nozzle should heat up pretty quickly. It’s the bed heating that takes a long time because of the surface area involved.


#179

Hi, in this case even I disable the heat bed that still take very long time.


#180

Hi,
When doing my first print I saw that it was not sticking properly to the build platform so I pressed stop, cleaned up and calibrated once more. Then I loaded the file once more to start the print again and it started to heat up. I saw the nozzle heating up to 270 before dropping back and the build plate took it’s time to get to 50.

But the issue is that the print is not starting. It’s just heating and keeping itself warm but it does not start. What’s wrong? I’ve upgraded firmware before I even started, I’ve checked all the cables, and I even tried it printing using USB via snapmaker3d. After that I’ve tried the latest snapmaker.js to generate gcode but that did not help either.

Help me, I’m at a loss here and been at it all day.

With kind regards Jero


#181

Didn’t you read the manual on page 29? The target temperature for ABS is maximum 240° and for PLA that would be much too much. Either the temperature controller broke after the first use or there is charred filament in the nozzle. However, there are other sources of error as well.


#182

Sorry did not explain that good… Did read that and the target temp was 200 since i’m printing with the PLA from snapmaker. It exceeded the target temp however and I don’t know why :-:disappointed_relieved:

Got the laser working however :slight_smile:


#183

I’ve changed filament (took it out and put it back in) and the filament was oozing like it should. I’ve checked for cloggs in the 3d printing head but that all looked fine. Fans work, XYZ work, screen works.


#184

Hi @Rainie :slight_smile:

Having issues with 3d printing since the first time I tried. I’ve posted earlier on this but did not have the time to follow up.
Could you help me out?

When doing my first print I saw that it was not sticking properly to the build platform so I pressed stop, cleaned up and calibrated once more. Then I loaded the file once more to start the print again and it started to heat up. I saw the nozzle heating up to 270 before dropping back and the build plate took it’s time to get to 50.
But the issue is that the print is not starting. It’s just heating and keeping itself warm but it does not start. What’s wrong? I’ve upgraded firmware before I even started, I’ve checked all the cables, and I even tried it printing using USB via snapmaker3d. After that I’ve tried the latest snapmaker.js to generate gcode but that did not help either.

I’m still ambitious about doing my first print: a whistle :slight_smile: Since the temperature felt strange I have replace the thermistor but that did not help.
So it heats up, nozzle at or above the 200 degrees (as set) and the bed temp is 50/50. Seems that it should start printing but it does not do anything but stay heated and idle.
Help me please! I’ve read everything, updated, etcetera. I just want to print :disappointed_relieved: