I have had 8 good prints until my Snapmaker unit died with white screen of death / freezes. What you describe sounds like either a calibration issue or a temperature issue. Are you using PLA?

For Calibration, use the piece of paper that came with the snapmaker. Calibrate each of the four corners, in order like this: Start with position 1, lower the print head until the print head “snags” the paper so that a GENTLE touch can’t move the paper out of the print head. Check this by moving the head up 0.05mm and the paper is released, so then move it back down 0.05mm so the paper is “grabbed” by the print head against the build plate. This is your calibrated position. Press 2 and repeat this all over again. When the paper is grabbed at position 2, then press 3 for position 3. Repeat again and repeat again for position 4. With the paper grabbed at position 4, save the calibration.

Next, use either raft or brim to start your print job. You’ll use a little extra plastic, but it is worth it. I’ve had great results with both.

For PLA, I use 200 degrees hot end, 50 degrees heated bed. If you might have gotten oil from your fingers onto the print surface, clean it with a little bit of rubbing alcohol. If you aren’t using PLA, then you will need to use temperatures that are compatible with what ever you are using.

Using one of the default profiles / settings from the Snapmaker 3D application should be a good start.


Thanks for the advice! it seems like moving my printer to an solid surface and adding a raft helped. now the print quality is awesome.


I forgot about that. I’m glad you picked that up on your own! Yes, a solid / unmovable surface is an absolute must for a 3d printer. The wobbles of an unstable surface will cause the liquid plastic to move. Good point! I’m glad you brought that up (as someone else reading this thread might benefit from that too.)


similar issues but I can only print in raft. If I try to print in anything else, the filament just drags and bunches up on the nozzle.


I print with Raft and have no issues, it only uses a little more filament, it is worth it as it reduces failure.



Hello, just got my SnapMaker today and could use some advice. Every print I attempt begins to extrude the filament a good inch above the bed. I use SnapMaker 3D on MacOS 10.13.3. The previews seem fine, but no matter the model, they all print well above the bed. I have successfully calibrated, and believe I assembled the unit correctly.

Thank you for any help!


Hello @reznite

Doug (a newbie) here. All prints start with an extrusion, around 10-15cm to start the filament flow. On my Snapmaker, this action starts to the left of the platform, when complete, the print head then moves onto the platform and starts the print.

I am using Windows. maybe some of the other Mac users can share their experience with you.

You will have fun with this great tool; I am.



just received my Snapmaker today, so far so good, the only issue i an having is the prints are shifted to the right, when i try to calibrate the print head goes off the print bed and will not calibrate. any suggestions?


I want to get informations about the process for cleaning the printing module.
What material should be used ?


I had an issue similar to this. It turned out that I had mounted the “X” axis off by one set of screw holes. I would start with that and see if it isn’t as simple as that. Here is the thread with a couple of pictures for comparison.


I have the same problem. Did you solve this ?


Has Snapmaker given the calibration spec yet? e.g. the measurement of the gap between the tip of the nozzle and the surface of the bed when properly calibrated

The calibration card is okay for a few uses, then it gets pressed thin in places, and the sheet of paper method is unreliable as not all paper is the same thickness.


Hi All (@Rainie @whimsycwd

I have been meaning to rummage around in my garage and find my old spark plug feeler gauges and find an appropriate gauge to use for calibration. The gauges are metal and will not readily deteriorate. Sample photos below. Maybe Snapmaker could ship a suitable single foil gauge with future releases.
for those interested in the thickness of paper see
A typical A4 sheet of 80gsm is 0.065mm; keep in mind paper can be compressed or expanded if you live in a high humidity environment. Not all receipt paper as suggested by some is the thickness and can vary 55gsm,58gsm,60gsm in weight; still, they are thinner that copy/print paper.

The use of a foil measuring gauge will have none of those challenges.

Have fun



Hi all (@Rainie @Noah @whimsycwd )

I have just found my feeler gauges and cleaned them up, used the 0.05mm to calibrate the printer and it works well.

I have a 0.04mm gauge and will try that shortly…back soon… FORGET THAT, the calibration does not have a 0.01mm movement to fine tune the setting.

So I will stick to using the 0.05mm feeler gauge for consistency. Let me know if you try this method and have success

Using a 0.65mm gauge (thickness of paper) may be the best approach. Too low a thickness may run into problems if you have a warp in your base-plate.



Thanks for this brilliant idea. Never knew about foil measuring gauge. Learnt something new.


I am 63yo and still learning… I am still a kid with wide eyes and an enquiring mind… makes life fun.

I was doing a calibration the other day with the supplied paper from Snapmaker, which is a bit worse for wear after many uses and had just read some comments on the forum of problems with doing calibrations and thought there has to be a better way. Then I had a eureka moment and remembered my feeler gauges which I used to adjust the gap on car spark-plugs many years ago and here we are. It is our nature to look at ‘things’ and look for ways to improve them, just look at all the suggestions that appear on this forum.

Take care and have a great weekend.



0.05 seems reasonable, given that it’s the resolution of the Snapmaker in the first place. Thank you for confirming.

Regarding achieving 0.04 or 0.065, I’ve thought about loosening/tightening the platform screws as fine adjustments but I’m very cautious to do that as I did have one back out on me after a few prints because I didn’t tighten them enough during initial assembly (I assumed the rubber grommets were intended to provide some “give” and shouldn’t be smashed down).

Now I have to find my feeler gauges…


hi @bCreative

As with all this stuff, slowly, slowly incrementally try things. I have run 4 prints now now with 0.05mm as the calibration thickness. I watched like crazy to ensure there was no nozzle scraping on the base-plate. Once you get past the first layer or two you are off and running anyway. The base-plates are good and solid so I am not anticipating any warping.

Have a great weekend



Hi All,

Went to replace my nozzle in the 3D print piece, and found that the screw is stripped for the heating element. So at this point I can’t actually replace the heating element, as the screw holding it in has been stripped completely smooth.

I’ve picked up new heating elements (24 volt) and can replace them, but I don’t know the size of the plug that the module is using for the HE.

I’d send this in under warranty, but the Purchase Invoice isn’t on my box (I have every other piece of paperwork, so I doubt I misplaced it).

So, what to do? Do I try and replace the HE myself and fix the module? I sent a request into sales for a copy of the PI, but that was a week ago and have had no response.


@daemionfox The heating element is a cylinder with 2 wires that inserts into the heater block and, as you mention, tightens down with a set screw. If the screw is stripped, it is the heater block that needs to be replaced, not the heating element. The heater blocks are fairly standard (and a spare should have been included in the box) so getting your hands on a replacement shouldn’t be too difficult; they’re also a consumable and not covered under warranty.

This isn’t an exact match, but should do the trick for you: