# Switched to a glass bed and have questions **URL:** \ **Category:** Snapmaker 2.0 (3-in-1)\ **Created:** [December 2, 2020, 1:44am UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144 "2020-12-02T01:44:08Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 6\ **Page:** 1
**Author:** ![Thick8](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/user_avatar/forum.snapmaker.com/thick8/32/4040_2.png) [@Thick8](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/Thick8)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 1:44am UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/1 "2020-12-02T01:44:08Z")
Hello All, My glass plate (Creality 230x230) came in today. I had printed a part yesterday on the standard build plate using PETG at a 240/70 temperature setting. I use hairspray on the bed. Today I calibrated the machine for the new plate and started off to print the same part with the exact same settings. Unfortunately the edges warped up and the adhesion was bad. Is there some general rules I should follow when switching to glass? Temperature or speed settings maybe? Thanks. ---
**Author:** ![brent113](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/user_avatar/forum.snapmaker.com/brent113/32/11114_2.png) [@brent113](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/brent113)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 2:11am UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/2 "2020-12-02T02:11:54Z")
I used to coat with either blue painter’s tape or glue stick. If the print sheet is flat enough you can also binder clip that on top of the glass. Stick on PEI sheets are also popular. Glass also takes longer to reach temp, remember the temp sensor is on the bottom of the glass, and it’ll be cooler on top. Give it an extra 10min or so to heat up as a try. ---
**Author:** ![stewl](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e5b9ba/32.png) [@stewl](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/stewl)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 12:51pm UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/3 "2020-12-02T12:51:04Z")
I always use Magigoo, I get it from 3DPrintz in the UK. It really is magic. Prints stick even ABS and when the bed is cool the model has usually popped off all by itself. One coat also lasts for a number of prints and wipes off with a damp cloth. I used it when printing and automatically ejecting face mask shields earlier in the year. Do be aware that PETg will actually pull pieces out of your glass so tape might be best though I find it almost impossible to get models off even when cool. @Thick8, how did you get the auto-leveling to work, I though the sensor was inductive? ---
**Author:** ![Thick8](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/user_avatar/forum.snapmaker.com/thick8/32/4040_2.png) [@Thick8](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/Thick8)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 5:03pm UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/4 "2020-12-02T17:03:43Z")
I did a manual calibration. I thought the sensor was proximity based. I was wrong. Is there a proximity type sensor that can be used with this machine? I wonder if the glass bed is even necessary. I am going to order a new OEM plate as the one I have seems concaved when hot. ---
**Author:** ![stewl](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/s/e5b9ba/32.png) [@stewl](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/stewl)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 5:32pm UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/5 "2020-12-02T17:32:20Z")
There is a discussion on this top here. It seems like it’s an inductive sensor and it only has a very small detection range which makes it fairly useless for use on a glass bed. It’s a shame as there is very little to beat the flatness of a piece of glass and though Marlin software bed levelling is good it’s no replacement for a flat bed. > [@A350 - printing on glass](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/a350-printing-on-glass/5238): > > does somebody have experience with replacing the original printbed with a glassbed? I would like to use the autolevel function for the initial leveling. The first print (I leveled manually before) didn’t work. Snapmaker did a autolevelling and on the first point the printhead pushed the glassbed down and I had to do an emergency stop. It seems like the manual leveling was gone and the machine tried to perform an automatic leveling which obviously went into the wrong direction. Any suggestions … ---
**Author:** ![Thick8](https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/flex022/user_avatar/forum.snapmaker.com/thick8/32/4040_2.png) [@Thick8](https://forum.snapmaker.com/u/Thick8)\ **Post date:** [December 2, 2020, 7:17pm UTC](https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/switched-to-a-glass-bed-and-have-questions/12144/6 "2020-12-02T19:17:03Z")
When I get home tonight I am going to hit the glass with a glue stick and raise the bed temp to 80c and try again. I may try again with the hairspray just to see if it will hold with the higher temperature.