Supplies for 3d printing


#1

What supplies should i order from amazon for the 3d printing part of snapmaker?


#2

Your printer comes with a single 500g spool of filament. Everything you need to start printing is in the box – including some test objects on the included USB drive. I did have to download the Snapmaker3D and SnapmakerJS software.

Once you run out of filament, you’ll need to replace it. I’m happy with the Snapmaker brand. It hasn’t given me any problems, so I’m ok re-ordering 500g spools for $15/each (plus shipping).

I’ve read some mixed reviews about the Amazon Basic filament, but overall the reviews seem fairly positive. If you’d rather get a 1kg spool for $20 vs. a 0.5kg spool for $15, go for it. If you want to explore the world of filaments, there are a lot of forum posts about it.

Be aware that PLA will absorb humidity over time. I don’t print a lot, I live in the SoCal desert, and I have trouble finishing a 0.5kg spool before it goes bad. I don’t get the stringing and unevenness of “wet” PLA, but it did get brittle. After about 10 months in the open, my PLA would break between the spool and the extruder. The last thing I want is to have filament break inside the extruder. I would waste more filament than I use if I bought 1kg spools. YMMV.


#3

I’ve tried several of the Amazon filaments with no issues. Just bear in mind each filament will have it’s own properties. I store my filament in zip locks bags with desiccant I bought on Amazon which changes color when it has absorbed sufficient moisture. The desiccant bags can be put in the oven to dry out.


#4

I don’t like the palate knife, or the screwdriver that came with the Snapmaker Original. The screwdriver slips something terrible, and the palate knife comes to a point – which can actually scratch (or worse) your project or your bed sticker. The point is also very weak, and can bend.

I have a rounded one that I can really bear-down on if need be, without threat of damaging the bed or the project. This becomes more relevant when you are printing PLA items with a very large base.

I’d recommend getting a high-quality allen wrench (hex) set. I’d bail on the ball-head type… they are good for angles, but also induce more slippage… you don’t really need to worry about corners much on the snapmaker, so you don’t really gain much benefit from the ball-head. I have two nice sets, but the traditional allen (without the ball head) gets the best bite on the screws.

I’d also recommend buying some desiccant and zip-lock bags for your filament, once it has been opened. They make a desiccant that actually changes colors as it absorbs moisture, and can be “reset” simply by putting in the microwave. Dry filament is very important, especially as you move away from PLA.

I’d recommend (though it isn’t completely necessary) a set of flush-cutters. Very easy to cut filament with these and they can also be used for clean-up of supports – though you could certainly make due with a pair of high-quality scissors for cutting filament.

I’d also recommend some needle-nose pliers – the steeper the angle, the better. It can come in handy for removing supports that are buried deep inside your project.

Have fun!


#5

I’ll add to moonglum who has a good list here already. Good exacto/blades are very valuable, but not as valuable as ditching the not-so-great allen set and palate.

Once your are ready to expand your toolset. A high quality heat gun can be useful, in particular to heat up a blade or something. I’ve found it pretty useful with the exacto and a wax knife. It seems more controllable than say, a low temp soldering pen. I use to sculpt, and a set to sculpting tools (traditionally used with plasticine) has been useful for me when cleaning up supports.


#6

You know… I was really trying to suggest things that won’t break the bank… but it occurred to me that if you are going to be doing any design work that interfaces with anything in the real world, a caliper and a good ruler (that allows butt-up measurements) are indispensable. The caliper in particular can be expensive, so you might want to make sure that you enjoy 3D printing before making that investment… but to me, this is the funnest part of the process. :slight_smile:


#7

Couple of items I have collected over the past year:

If your in the United States and near a Harbor Freight Store, they have very acceptable digital calipers that when tested do work great and I was able to calibrate then on a known gage blocks at my job. Also they have some dry containers you can put your filament into with descant. $10-$50 for calipers.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=digital%20calipers

If you want to upgrade to a de-humidification cabinet I have one of these. $290.00 is a little steep for some but it’s automatic and holds the material at about 24-26% Relative humidity. My home in Ohio in the basement runs around 42-48% humidity. Seems like a lot but many homes are in the low 40’s. Display shows 32 in my pic as I just opened the door and loaded some new reels in. Takes about 2 hours to dry out the contents.

If you start moving into different materials (ABS/PETG/TPU…) or changing colors… You should clean the nozzle with cleaning material when switching materials. Not nice to see a blob of red/blue in your white when printing.

And if you change or print a lot a nozzle cleaning kit is a nice to have but not necessary until you plug a nozzle.

Another item to have if you branch off into ABS or PETG is Glue or Blue Tape. I have great success on the glue stick as I put it on purple and when it heats up it actually dry’s clear and when printing melts and the material sticks to the surface actually pretty good. Bonus … cleans up with water…

I also pick up bottles of Alcohol from Sam’s Club to scrub and clean the build plate. This also helps keep it clean and PLA stick’s better to it when clean.