Second Jerusalem Temple - Long Print

Here is about 3/4 of the Second (Herodian) Temple in First Century Jerusalem. I still have to print the “fore court” - but this is enough to be worth showing. The Roof of the sanctuary took 6 hrs 40 mins to print. There rest was done as a single print and required almost 119 hrs.

Things I’ve learned about doing long prints: Don’t do long prints. This took longer than it had to because I haven’t had time to learn how to slice up a model into manageable parts (which I will now learn to do) - thus the support structures for the overhangs had to be built all the way up the sides of the walls. Probably accounts for 20% of the build time, even though those were set to print fast.

Other things: It was very difficult removing the support structures from in between the temple and the walls. The temple section needs to be printed as a separate structure (in about three layers.)

On the whole, Snapmaker did a pretty good job with this. The pointed structures atop the roof and the middle gate (Front in this picture - as I mentioned, this isn’t the whole thing) are the same but on different scales and Snapmaker printed them both quite well, with little cobwebbing. Some of the lines are down to me. I could not run this continuously and had to start and stop over several days.

I could not get the AMOLEN Marble White Filament to print on my glass top (which I really would have preferred because the aluminum bed just isn’t level enough for prints with a larger footprint.) I will finish this with the marble filament, but I will come back top this model in the future. To get color right, I am going to need to use White PLA and paint it with model paints. . I will definitely separate out the sanctuary (it’s too big anyway and needs to be scaled down about 18-20%) and cut everything into layers to minimize waste from support structures.






6 Likes

That looks amazing. I love historical architecture. How did it print on the outer areas of the bed?

Looks great. One thing that might reduce print time and wasted material on support is the use of tree supports in Cura 4.9 or SLA supports in Prusa slicer. Cura also has something called gradual infill that helps enormously with large high blocky objects. The infill density can start very low and then increase the infill for the last few mm to get a level top.

There was no warping at the outer edges that I could detect. If that’s what you’re referring to.

I downloaded Cura last night. I’m definitely going to take a look at that. I compared it to a G code file from Luban and Cura claimed it could do it in a shorter time.

The inner part of that sanctuary is completely hollow. There’s no infill there.

Just printing sides and a separate top is absolutely the best way to reduce infill as far as possible though gradual infill may help with walls and towers unless you also do those the same way. Cura is very good but the interface can be daunting. The great thing is the new version 4.9 comes pre packed with 3 Snapmaker profiles that I have found work just fine.

1 Like

Yes. That and the leveling of the edges versus the center, was just curious as to the consistency because of the known fact that the bed is not even close to flat. I’m about to do a large print that will take it close to the forward and rearward edges, so I was just wondering. Also using Cura. Prints don’t seem to take as long with Cura vs Luban.

I would have used my borosylicate glass and used manual leveling, if I could have gotten the material (Amolen marble PLA) to stick to it, but no change of settings or nozzles I tried could accomplish that. The bed had one noticeable place where it high-centered just a bit, but as the build progressed it leveled off. If the center of the bed is the center of a clock, the high area was at around two o’clock about three inches (7.5 cm) from the center.

If yours goes really close to the edges in any direction, there might be some slight warping. As the build progressed, there was some oh-so-slight separation near the front of my structure. I was worried it meant to model wouldn’t sit flat, but it sits just fine so I didn’t mention it.

Yes, I noticed it had my A350 in the settings. It had a lot of different machines. Good on it.

My glass bed will be here Sunday, I’ll probably just level it manually.

If I was going close to the edges, I’d try to make the glass bed work too. I use the aluminum bed only if I have to.