Did a few prints with the Proto-Pasta HTPLA with temp at 220c and bed temp of 70c and it made a big difference… ah the subtleties of this art-form.
I will go back and test the ColorFabb with the higher temperatures and see how it performs.
I still have a Flashforge PLA to test
Keep having fun.
Doug
That’s great @doug. Yes it’s amazing how many variables there are to play with!
My first PETG print was ‘successful’. It shows that the best temperature is probably 240 degrees. More testing to go…
That’s the detached raft at the bottom of the picture.
@Doug. Your comment about the Snapmaker PLA got me thinking. My problems with brittleness were when I was printing at a lower temperature. I have had good results with some PLA so far printing at the high end of the temperature range. I will do a reprint with the Snapmaker white, and might do a temperature tower as well.
Hi @rick
I have not got around to try a temperature tower print, I found a bunch of them on Thingiverse and have not made a selection as yet.
I just found this video on the topic https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6a87NohedU
Doug
Hi @doug. I’m using Simplify 3D. I found a script which you paste in the ‘script’ area of Simplify 3D which does the temperature changes to match the numbers and levels on the tower. This works with a layer height of 0.2 mm. If you change that you would need to adjust the number of layers to match (2 mm first step then 7 mm each succeeding step it looks like). The model is Better Temperature Tower v5 240-180 (Thingiverse 2318636). The script goes in the "Scripts - Post Processing’ box and is:
{REPLACE “; layer 10,” “M104 S240;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 45,” “M104 S235;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 81,” “M104 S230;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 116,” “M104 S225;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 151,” “M104 S220;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 186,” “M104 S215;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 221,” “M104 S210;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 256,” “M104 S205;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 291,” “M104 S200;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 326,” “M104 S195;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 361,” “M104 S190;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 396,” “M104 S185;”}
{REPLACE “; layer 431,” “M104 S180;”}
If you don’t have Simplify 3D I think you may have to manually insert the M104 SXXX commands manually in the GCODE using a text editor.
I’m just about to try a ‘Calicat’ with the PETG…
Hi @rick
Thanks for the great advice, I am sure many other users will benefit from this also.
I am going to try this tower https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2696733 all the temperature values are provided for changing your gCode. I am using Cura.
Have a great weekend
Doug
Another good video on Temperature towers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPumsgvBt00
learning, learning, learning …and having fun
No worries @doug. I’m just sharing other people’s work😊
A quick question. I noticed that you have an IR thermometer. Is the Snapmaker indicated temperature consistent with what you see on the thermometer?
When I point the thermometer at the build plate, which is set for 70c the reading is 65c and that is consistent around the plate.
Thanks Doug. That video was very useful.
Thanks Doug. That is consistent with what I was thinking. Is you machine accurate enough to read the nozzle temp?
I have found so far that I need to have the indicated temperature set a bit higher than expected to get the best result. I currently have the bed at at 65 for PLA and 80 for PETG (but that might change!)
Hi @rick
I did try the testing the nozzle temp when I acquired the thermometer and had no luck, it was showing a much lower temperature. Obviously the temperature that we set is for the heater element/block and that is not being transferred to the nozzle.
Doug
Of course. The temperature is measured where the thermocouple is at - buried deep in the filament heating system.
OK. Calicat was a bit of a fail. Looks like I need to increase retraction and increase the extrusion multiplier and see what that does.
hahahaha does this come under cruelty to animals
Like all newbies i started with Snapmaker3D and it worked like a charm, in fact I still use it on some builds. I then started using Cura, which offers many more options and I use this most of the time. I see that you and a few others are using Simplify3D. Do you consider it an improvement on using Cura.?
My thirst to learn and improve is driving me further.
Doug
@doug
I haven’t done any objective testing yet but the results from Simplify 3D appear better looking and seem to print faster. This may be confirmation bias as the expenditure was substantial!
When I get the time I’ll try and do some comparison prints.
I really liked the ‘work flow’ of Simplify 3D, but Cura was pretty good too.
So, it’s early days, but I think Simplify 3D is better. Is it worth the money? Hard to say yet. I could have bought a lot of filament for the price of Simplify 3D.
My printing with PETG is improving and after the poor Calicat episode I have had much improvement by changing a few parameters. 
I’ll have some pictures up soon.
Thanks for that, much appreciated. I have taken the leap and purchased a copy. I consider it to be another tool in the toolbox. No doubt each application will have some benefits & features that differentiate them… we can now cover all bases.
Doug
That’s great @doug. I hope you find it useful. Simplify 3D has some good tutorial videos.
I’m still running the parameters for PETG printing but things are improving.
The finish is still not as good as the PLA but it’s getting better. That layered finish on the second carabiner is part of the design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819242 .
I am just running my first print using Simplify3D… wow…I set it up to work.
There are heaps of things to learn with this little gem
I am having fun
Doug
